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Can a Carbone seal be saved?
- Thread starter get_real
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Get the "fatty" kit as I like to call it from OSDparts.com. I just put two of those on a Challenger and it's a super nice piece.
http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=2&products_id=4
You can see the difference in the stainless piece, the carbon ring is the same as stock.
http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=2&products_id=4
You can see the difference in the stainless piece, the carbon ring is the same as stock.
Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
Get the "fatty" kit as I like to call it from OSDparts.com. I just put two of those on a Challenger and it's a super nice piece.
http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=2&products_id=4
You can see the difference in the stainless piece, the carbon ring is the same as stock.
That is the same kit I used on my 96 xp. It is a nice kit.
get_real
Active Member
Ditto, very good deal. I like that OSD puts kits together. Just ordered all the parts for a complete pump rebuild with the improved seal kit.
Sent from my LG-VM696 using Tapatalk 2
Sweet deal guys, they do make some nice kits. These actually seem to put a tad more pressure for the seal. On the Challenger I just finished, I reached in at idle on the trailer and the RPM's jumped a couple o' hundred rpm's. This was right after I put it together, hasn't been a problem as the idle is just where it's supposed to be now.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Yep... what he said.
BUT... the reason they changed from an O-ring, to the C-clip... is because the O-ring would break, and fall off. SO... if your stainless ring was all the way back to the grease boot... then it may have already been gone.
Regardless of the clip... there are still 2 O-rings inside the stainless ring, to seal it to the drive shaft.
BUT... the reason they changed from an O-ring, to the C-clip... is because the O-ring would break, and fall off. SO... if your stainless ring was all the way back to the grease boot... then it may have already been gone.
Regardless of the clip... there are still 2 O-rings inside the stainless ring, to seal it to the drive shaft.
get_real
Active Member
Need some quick assistance. While putting my driveshaft and pump in my GTI I found I have an alignment problem. The angle of the shaft seems off, and the carbon seal is not mating up and centered on the stainless piece. Looks to me like the rear of the engine is low and needs to come up some. There were no shims on my pump housing. What is the correct fix, shim up the rear engine mounts? I don't think the carbon ring is going to seal well, and this might have been the original problem??
get_real
Active Member
Thanks. Could I get by if I just shim the rear mounts until the seal looks centered, or should I get the tool?
get_real
Active Member
Added a 1/8 shim to both rear mounts, and the carbon seal looks centered, but the starter will barely turn the motor over. Will have to get the alignment tool or take it to the shop. Very upsetting, all the work to rebuild the pump and seal and it won't even turn over. Also, I don't like the way the impeller fits, it's tight in some spots and loose in others. The clearances looked better with the old wear ring. Also one of the nut plates on the pump housing is broken, and the nut spins when trying to tighten down the nozzle & reverse gate assembly. Was able to get it tight, but it will probably be hard to get it off. Very frustrating!
get_real
Active Member
I had coated the wear ring with vasoline before installing the impeller. I could spin the impeller fairly easy before installing the housing on the ski. Is it common to have some problems turning over the engine after a new wear ring is installed, or is the problem causing the excess friction more likely the drive shaft is not aligned?
RebuiltSeadooBaffles
Member
Make sure you do not have a battery problem 1st, take the plugs out and try to turn the engine over by hand via the PTO wheel, if there is no binding then its a starter or battery issue
get_real
Active Member
Thanks, I'll try that. I did take the plugs out and used the starter to put the grease fitting on the top, but didn't try to spin it by hand. Also checked the battery volts and had 12.21 v.
get_real
Active Member
Think I've finally solved the problems with my GTI. Took the ski to the shop where I bought my XP and had them align the engine. It was way off....needed to raise the rear engine mounts 1/4" and the fronts about 1/8 inch to get the tool to slide in correctly. The dealer didn't have any thick shims, so I took the ski home and bought some fender washers from Lowes. Taped four washers together for the rear and 2 for the front. Found the ski has a rebuilt SBT engine, and I'm thinking the previous owner or shop didn't align it when installed. I'm also thinking the miss-alignment was probably the cause of my original cavitation issue as the carbon seal couldn't seat correctly.
Also found the impeller in the pump I had rebuilt was getting bound up on the wear ring and making it hard to spin. The dealer thinks the pump housing is warped, and I'm thinking they may be right. They said the ones with the brass fins (like mine) tend to warp more that all plastic ones. Since I'm not ready to spend the bucks for a new housing right now, I decided to try and grind the new wear ring where it was contacting the impleller. Used a dremel tool and sandpaper where it was too tight. Once I got it close, I hooked up my electic impact wrench using the impleller remover tool and spun the shaft for about 5 minutes. That really seemed to help and now it spins freely by hand. There are some spots on the wear ring (where I didn't grind) that are over specs, but I'm hoping it will still make decent power.
Got it back together and it started up. It was a frustrating week but was happy to get it started again last night! Saturday will be the true test on the water.
Would be interested to know if anyone else has used fender washers for shims or tried to grind a new wear ring that didn't fit correctly?
Also found the impeller in the pump I had rebuilt was getting bound up on the wear ring and making it hard to spin. The dealer thinks the pump housing is warped, and I'm thinking they may be right. They said the ones with the brass fins (like mine) tend to warp more that all plastic ones. Since I'm not ready to spend the bucks for a new housing right now, I decided to try and grind the new wear ring where it was contacting the impleller. Used a dremel tool and sandpaper where it was too tight. Once I got it close, I hooked up my electic impact wrench using the impleller remover tool and spun the shaft for about 5 minutes. That really seemed to help and now it spins freely by hand. There are some spots on the wear ring (where I didn't grind) that are over specs, but I'm hoping it will still make decent power.
Got it back together and it started up. It was a frustrating week but was happy to get it started again last night! Saturday will be the true test on the water.
Would be interested to know if anyone else has used fender washers for shims or tried to grind a new wear ring that didn't fit correctly?
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Rosie2514
Active Member
I had a WSM wearring that I installed this season . When I installed it it was so tight that I couldn't spin the impeller at all , and either would the starter motor . Come to find out , it was actually "egg" shaped . I took a sander to it and smoothed it out so that it was still tight but not where I couldn't spin it by hand . I then put it back in the pump and sprayed some soapy water on the ring before I let the starter motor carve the rest out .
She runs fine . 58mph . But still has some cavitation due to carbon seal which is getting replaced at this very second lol
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