So I finally got on the water today and everything seemed fine. Then after a while I decides to go all out. Out of the hole it went to 6000 and jumped and started planning. It got up to about 45 and 50mph the RMPs where climbing and between 5000 and 6000 the motor shut down, no warning beeps, nothing. Before flipping out I turned the key and she started right back up, like nothing happened. Went to WOT again everything was perfect it came up on plain started to get some speed and as soo as the RPM got to about 5500 again it was a slight hesitation and the motor stopped again. It was like I turned the key or took off the lanyard. Turn the key started right back up. Below 5000 RMP everything seems as though it should be creep over 5000 and the motor shuts down. It is a 2001 Sea Doo Utopia with the V6 DFI 200hp Optimax motor. Does anyone have any thoughts or come across this before?
Any thoughts?
- Thread starter Chrisca74
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robin savell lloyd
Active Member
may be a fuel restriction. good luck
robin savell lloyd
Active Member
have you ever seen an engine run out of gas they do not always give you warning. I would think a 2 cycle may run very fast just before it dies. :hurray:
robin savell lloyd
Active Member
Try runing at lower rpms like 3500 to 4000 and see if it still dies if it takes longer to die then fuel restriction may or may not be the problem. but I would think so. good luck :hurray:
The gas tank is half full I just put gas in it before I went out. At any RPM below 5000 it runs like a champ its just when it goes over 5000 RPM after it is on plane. When I go WOT in the at first every thing is fine it shots up out the water and when I get to 5500 to 6000 thers a little hesitation and then motor goes out. As long as I stay at 5000 or lower everything is perfect.
robin savell lloyd
Active Member
It sound fuel related to me . but I can allways be wrong. :hurray:
Chrisca74, I just read your post about it shutting down. I have been out on the water all day and just got back home.Anyway, It sounds fishy... Lets start with some background. Did you just buy it, or is it another season with the boat? If it is another season, how was it winterized? Now the basic questions Plugs, Fuel, Fuel filter clean? Fuel vent non restricted? If when it stalls and you open the gas cap is there a lot of vacuum in the tank...could be a plugged vent line. I'm gonna read some other threads and give me an answer so I have a little to work with. I'll be on line for a while...it's 10:00 pm now Sunday.
Karl
Karl
I just purchased the the boat. I did however take it in to the dealer and had them do a once over as well as hook it up to the computer to see how many hours where on it. They said every thing looked good and it only had 35 hours on it. I checked the gas tank to see if there was any presure build up and there wasn't, its acting as if its losing spark or ignition.
Chrisca, I'll do some investigating and see what could cause that breakdown at high speed RPM's and get back to you. I'll check out the electrical diagrams and see what direction we have to go...It sounds like a electrical component is not working properly
Karl
Karl
Electrical.....
It's an obvious electrical short. No warning, no codes to signal any type of trouble....just a shutdown. That's an electrical short.
I think the Mercury M-2 has an ignition key and a safety lanyard, correct? If you have the safety lanyard that uses the magnetic electrical circuit, then this is likely your problem.
It's an obvious electrical short. No warning, no codes to signal any type of trouble....just a shutdown. That's an electrical short.
I think the Mercury M-2 has an ignition key and a safety lanyard, correct? If you have the safety lanyard that uses the magnetic electrical circuit, then this is likely your problem.
robin savell lloyd
Active Member
So this electrical short hapens above 5000 only? That is a new one on me. I thought electrical shorts hapened just when ever.
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......Oh Robin.....tisk, tisk, tisk....
O.k., I re-read the entire post to see if I missed something and low and behold, I did..........which, isn't unusual, for those that know me anyway, like Robin.
I think Robin is on the mark, just need to take a different avenue. I don't have the manual on the 200 hp M-2 DFI and from what I can see, the 210hp, naturally aspirated and the 240 and 250 hp are also different (I have those manuals). So, I'm only left with theory
I still think your being shut down electrically but because, like Robin said, "a short at 5k and over" doesn't add up. But, there are other parameters being monitered by the engine and if a sensor is broken or picking up a wrong signal, then this can also cause your problem.
If this is a loss of fuel pressure like in a carb model, then it would spit and sputter before going dead.
Here's my idea, as you increase the speed of your motor, you have the oil pressure system increasing and the fuel pressure system is increasing. Oil pressure is mechanically driven off the engine as is the fuel pump (this model, may be electric. I have no way to tell.) It does have an electric primer. . These systems have dump valves. What I mean by that is and this is hypothetical, when your at idle, say your fuel pressure is 155 psi, with a return valve that is bleeding off the excess flow, not being used by the engine. Oil pressure too. So as you increase engine speed, there is a couple things happening. As more fuel is being needed to burn in the engine, the return or dump valve (for lack of better terminology, since I don't have a manual) should be closing down, holding fuel pressure to a certain pressure. The same is true for the oil pressure. Now, if your speeding up and the oil pressure relief (dump) valve is not closing down any, then the pressure switch will send the signal to the ECM that your operating on low pressure and to shut down. With the fuel, once injector pressure falls below piston compression pressure, then it to will shut off.
You have a specific problem that is dealing with an electrical component not receiving what it needs to run over the 5000 rpm you've stated.
Your a premium member, I"d look into the manual for tests on the oil pressure switch and fuel pressure switch.
If it was simple like the fuel pump going out, then it would hesitate as it started to starve for fuel. But it's not, it's simply shutting down. That's why I think it's got to be electrical in nature.........
Sorry for the rambling post...........
O.k., I re-read the entire post to see if I missed something and low and behold, I did..........which, isn't unusual, for those that know me anyway, like Robin.
I think Robin is on the mark, just need to take a different avenue. I don't have the manual on the 200 hp M-2 DFI and from what I can see, the 210hp, naturally aspirated and the 240 and 250 hp are also different (I have those manuals). So, I'm only left with theory
I still think your being shut down electrically but because, like Robin said, "a short at 5k and over" doesn't add up. But, there are other parameters being monitered by the engine and if a sensor is broken or picking up a wrong signal, then this can also cause your problem.
If this is a loss of fuel pressure like in a carb model, then it would spit and sputter before going dead.
Here's my idea, as you increase the speed of your motor, you have the oil pressure system increasing and the fuel pressure system is increasing. Oil pressure is mechanically driven off the engine as is the fuel pump (this model, may be electric. I have no way to tell.) It does have an electric primer. . These systems have dump valves. What I mean by that is and this is hypothetical, when your at idle, say your fuel pressure is 155 psi, with a return valve that is bleeding off the excess flow, not being used by the engine. Oil pressure too. So as you increase engine speed, there is a couple things happening. As more fuel is being needed to burn in the engine, the return or dump valve (for lack of better terminology, since I don't have a manual) should be closing down, holding fuel pressure to a certain pressure. The same is true for the oil pressure. Now, if your speeding up and the oil pressure relief (dump) valve is not closing down any, then the pressure switch will send the signal to the ECM that your operating on low pressure and to shut down. With the fuel, once injector pressure falls below piston compression pressure, then it to will shut off.
You have a specific problem that is dealing with an electrical component not receiving what it needs to run over the 5000 rpm you've stated.
Your a premium member, I"d look into the manual for tests on the oil pressure switch and fuel pressure switch.
If it was simple like the fuel pump going out, then it would hesitate as it started to starve for fuel. But it's not, it's simply shutting down. That's why I think it's got to be electrical in nature.........
Sorry for the rambling post...........
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If it something like that would the ECM have a fault code stored on it? I dropped the boat off at the dealer, and at $90 hr I hope they will be able to find the problem quick. One thing that is hopeful is it happens every time so its not interment problem. I guess I find out here soon.
I'm think the problem should be picked up at the dealer. It is a seadoo dealer I hope. Most regular boat dealer's don't have a clue...but they know how to charge for guesses. Keep us posted as we all would like to know the results.
Karl
Karl
No Seadoo Dealer!....
On the contrary, I hope you didn't take it to Seadoo!.......Although the boat has Seadoo written all over it, it's a Mercury product. The Seadoo mechanics are ill qualified to work on these motors. The Optimax M-2 engines are one of a kind motors by Mercury, specially designed for Bombardier.
Yes, there should be a code generated for this problem. But, they have a guide that tells them how much the fix is before they even fix it. It's weird, if they replace your temp sensor, in reality, it takes them 3 minutes. But in their world, the chart says to charge .5 hours..........so, outside of the cost of the sensor, you also pay them $45 bucks for turning that wrench for a couple minutes..............
On the contrary, I hope you didn't take it to Seadoo!.......Although the boat has Seadoo written all over it, it's a Mercury product. The Seadoo mechanics are ill qualified to work on these motors. The Optimax M-2 engines are one of a kind motors by Mercury, specially designed for Bombardier.
Yes, there should be a code generated for this problem. But, they have a guide that tells them how much the fix is before they even fix it. It's weird, if they replace your temp sensor, in reality, it takes them 3 minutes. But in their world, the chart says to charge .5 hours..........so, outside of the cost of the sensor, you also pay them $45 bucks for turning that wrench for a couple minutes..............
robin savell lloyd
Active Member
You are all right about electrical. it can hapen with all the elictronics they use today but the only thing that I can think of that might do this only above 5000 rpms would be mpem. I just can not think of any other electrical component by its self that would do this. may be coil or triger. electrical is a nasty beast. it can be very hard to diagnose that is why I would concentrate on fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel vent, fuel filter and fuel pump first. It sounds if your carbs are ok. :cheers:
Boat dealers have no clue...I/o... Outboards....
I ment to not go to the boat dealer down the street. It isn't a outboard or an I/O...they have no clue.
I ment to not go to the boat dealer down the street. It isn't a outboard or an I/O...they have no clue.
robin savell lloyd
Active Member
There is nothing wrong with being wrong it just means your a man. and a real man to admit it. but then again I can allways be wrong. good luck to all. :cheers:
Do you all thionk that the Crank Poistion Sensor could be the culprit? While looking through the manual I saw that if the Crank poistion sensor was at fault there would be no warning beeps, it would just die. The only thing wrong with that train of thought is would it be possible for the sensor work and then not work over 5000 RMP? I figured just because it's at the dealer I shouldn't stop looking into it. If anything else it been a learning oppurtunity.
Cps?
I wouldn't think so.....
The CPS is more like the distributer on your car. It tells the spark plug when it's their turn to get spark.......so, to me, sounds like it would have to work at all rpm........not just shut down over 5k......but I have seen some weird things with these motors..........sometime, what sounds logical, isn't.
I wouldn't think so.....
The CPS is more like the distributer on your car. It tells the spark plug when it's their turn to get spark.......so, to me, sounds like it would have to work at all rpm........not just shut down over 5k......but I have seen some weird things with these motors..........sometime, what sounds logical, isn't.
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