Another Broken Mount - HELP!!

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mejim707

Active Member
So, while installing the engine after a much needed overhaul the rear mount broke while torquing it down to 18 foot pounds. I cannot locate any mounts anywhere and online will take a week or more.

I want to repair it in the mean time, IF POSSIBLE. This disk is only held on by rubber! Unreal.

Can't I just do the following;

1. Drill two holes in the metal plate
2. Counter sink the holes for screws
3. Epoxy the unit together and drive the screws in.

This should hold better than factory since the disk responsible for holding the engine is only held on by a little rubber.

Or, since this metal disk is ONLY held on by the rubber, I don't know why I can't just epoxy this metal disk back in place.

I don't know, this sucks and it's Friday night so everyone is closed until Monday.
 
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Nope, just order a replacement.
Well you’re the expert. And I don’t like hacking anything. It’s got to be perfect

So I will do just that, I’ll take your advice and I will get new ones. Maybe I can find one at some obscure place within an hour or so drive. Who knows. Time to start calling everyone in their grandmothers lol

Thanks again for all your help!
 
So, while installing the engine after a much needed overhaul the rear mount broke while torquing it down to 18 foot pounds. I cannot locate any mounts anywhere and online will take a week or more.

I want to repair it in the mean time, IF POSSIBLE. This disk is only held on by rubber! Unreal.

Can't I just do the following;

1. Drill two holes in the metal plate
2. Counter sink the holes for screws
3. Epoxy the unit together and drive the screws in.

This should hold better than factory since the disk responsible for holding the engine is only held on by a little rubber.

Or, since this metal disk is ONLY held on by the rubber, I don't know why I can't just epoxy this metal disk back in place.

I don't know, this sucks and it's Friday night so everyone is closed until Monday.

I haven't done it but there are vulcanizing processes. I'd wait and order a replacement. If you lived by me I got plenty. LOL Good Luck !!
 
I haven't done it but there are vulcanizing processes. I'd wait and order a replacement. If you lived by me I got plenty. LOL Good Luck !!
That’s why they live long and prosper I guess

But yeah I’m tossing the broken ones and getting new.

I may have actually found a guy local who does service about 22 miles away. I’m going to see what they’re like. I’ll report back!
 
Every now and again you can find a set for $20. Good Luck. Make sure you get the engine lined up correctly. That generally exacerbates the problem.
 
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Wow! I took a ride to that guy. He's local and does seadoo service! He gave me the mounts and other stuff for free! The mounts are perfect I can't even believe this lol

This is the full install - New engine!IMG_0507.JPG
 
Every now and again you can find a set for $20. Good Luck. Make sure you get the engine lined up correctly. That generally exacerbates the problem.

Oh yes, I bought the tool from SBT and got the alignment so the shaft slides smooth into the PTO and seats to the inner most wall of the PTO.

I think that proves it's perfect. I don't see anything else so long as that thing slides in smooth with no difficulty? I spent a while on all 3 mounts to get it aligned this way.
 
Sounds like you got R Did !!! Excellent !!! I checked many engine alignments before I removed the engine. Believe me MOST are not even close to being aligned.
 
Sounds like you got R Did !!! Excellent !!! I checked many engine alignments before I removed the engine. Believe me MOST are not even close to being aligned.
You're not kidding there. When I first got the tool, I checked the alignment of the engine from the previous owner and it was WAYY off. Like the tool was off by a little more than 1/8 from the hole. Thankfully my drive shaft and PTO didn't get chewed up!

Now it's all dead on.
 
Wow! I took a ride to that guy. He's local and does seadoo service! He gave me the mounts and other stuff for free! The mounts are perfect I can't even believe this lol

This is the full install - New engine!View attachment 63854
Man you got a good guy there !!! Don't piss him off. LOL Very encouraging for me. I get cynical at times with all the greedy sobs in the world. LOL So nice to run into a good guy. Congratulations... pay it forward !! :D
 
You're not kidding there. When I first got the tool, I checked the alignment of the engine from the previous owner and it was WAYY off. Like the tool was off by a little more than 1/8 from the hole. Thankfully my drive shaft and PTO didn't get chewed up!

Now it's all dead on.
Gonna be smooooooooooth !! :D :D
 
Gonna be smooooooooooth !! :D :D
Hey, sorry, I don’t know if you know anything about this but I just found this out a few minutes ago

I poured the ENTIRE 32oz bottle of break in oil into the oil reservoir.

I poured in it a little while adding the XPS oil until the tank was full and the break in oil was gone.

The SBT tech I spoke to was telling me what to do but I don’t know if this was correct or not..

If I’m running my entire oil tank full with the 32 Oz bottle of break in oil added, will this cause issues? Or will it be fine to run this until it goes away over time?

I don’t know if I should drain the oil out or not. What a pain…
 
To clarify, I mixed the XPS oil and Break in oil at the same time until the entire 32 Oz of break in oil was consumed and the oil tank was full with the XPS / Break in oil mixture.

This mixture is through the oil lines as well as the supply and return oil lines to the crank case.

Is this ok? Does it add extra lubricant and I can just run it like this until the oil tank is empty?

Or do I need to drain all of the oil out of the system and engine?

I’ve never used break in oil before so I have no clue what to do here.
 
Break in oil goes in the gas tank. I would never mix brands in the oil tank. I personally would clean out the system and start over.
 
Break in oil goes in the gas tank. I would never mix brands in the oil tank. I personally would clean out the system and start over.
Crap, ok, I only ran it at the dock for a little while yesterday. Nothing crazy and nothing out on water. Just idle and a little throttle to about 2k.

The break in oil was mixed with the other oil so it got through the entire system. Do you think this could have cause issues?

I’ll drain all the oil now.
 
The only reason they say not to mix brands is because different brands do not always play nice with each other and they might gum up. So you might be ok, or it might cause issues. Thinking how much you have done up until now I would not take a chance.

I am no oil expert but I do not think any reaction between the oils happens instantaneously. So I think you will be ok if you clean out the system. Dont forget to drain the rotary valve cavity and change tbe oil filter.
 
The only reason they say not to mix brands is because different brands do not always play nice with each other and they might gum up. So you might be ok, or it might cause issues. Thinking how much you have done up until now I would not take a chance.

I am no oil expert but I do not think any reaction between the oils happens instantaneously. So I think you will be ok if you clean out the system. Dont forget to drain the rotary valve cavity and change tbe oil filter.
Good point on the filter.

So what is the rotary valve cavity? I was about to remove the lower oil lines to the block. would that do it?
 
Yeah, those 12mm oil lines to the block only feed oil to the rotary valve. So that will do the trick
Ok my friend, the entire system is purged of all the oil.

I removed the rotary valve as well and cleaned out the housing.

I removed the oil pump and using a drill counterclockwise purged the lines with fresh oil.

I think I can reuse the carb and manifold gaskets because they're new and have zero wear.

Sorry to keep harassing you, but thank you for the help!

My last question is, the lower part of the crank case still has oil. I have no way to remove that. Will that be a problem or just dilute? All the oil I took out was flowing very well, no gumminess or anything either. So I think it should be ok.

What are your thoughts?
 
Sounds like you should be good to go. I would have no concerns at this stage.
So you said earlier to drain the oil out of the rotary cavity. I'm not sure what that means. Could you explain that? I don't want to miss anything.

The bottom of the crank case still has some of the mix in there and I don't know of any way to get that out. But if you think that's ok and will dilute and just go away over time that's great!

Thanks for the help! I really appreciate it.
 
Sounds like you should be good to go. I would have no concerns at this stage.
Oh wait up, actually, maybe no oil actually goes into the crank case after all? Maybe by "rotary valve cavity" that just means a cavity behind the rotary valve and if so then by removing the supply and return oil lines this will fully drain all oil form the engine block?

I'm not familiar with the inner workings of these engines. But perhaps no oil actually goes into the crank around the crank shaft.
 
Can’t locate the XPS E-Tec 2T oil anywhere. The only thing I can find it XPS XD100. I have no clue if this is compatible so I guess I’m done for today. Wonderful
 
Just for the record I doubt it will hurt anything and you'll never drain 100% of it out of the system anyway. Safetest bet is to drain it and vacuum out the reservoi and you'll probably feel more comfortable. :) I've never used break-in oil on the two-strokes as I don't have that kinda cash. LOL :D . I just do a 100:1 premix (in addition to the injection system) unless it is fuel injected. Don't get to stressed over it. Good Luck !!
 
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