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RESTO 99 SPX Resto

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Since all of us with the yellow X4's want those decals is there any way to have them scanned and reproduced by a shop that does vinyl wraps before they are installed? Mine is a 1996 that the P.O. installed the 1999 decals on and it looks great but they are in poor shape.

It is possible but I do not want to damage any of them and pulling the mask of the top may be an issue. Also I would have to check on a price. I have not ever had that done before. It was a task finding them all, I may have the last complete set out there. We are waiting on a couple more to come in the mail.
 
It is possible but I do not want to damage any of them and pulling the mask of the top may be an issue. Also I would have to check on a price. I have not ever had that done before. It was a task finding them all, I may have the last complete set out there. We are waiting on a couple more to come in the mail.

You may be able to make some pretty good change if you were to sell these decals. Im sure TONS of ppl would buy them from you to make their ski look like a 99spx. And you said, you may have the last complete set, I definitely think it is something worth checking into...especially if you ever (and you probably will) find a 99spx again. Im sure you paid a pretty penny for this entire set, could actually save you some money if you could find someone to do it for ya
 
Got anxious so we went and bought a new drill. The top half of the hull was completely buffed, it turned out pretty good. The po had wet sanded the hull before, so it was fairly easy to buff this. Here are a couple pictures

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In this one you can see the reflections of everything well, even the chevy symbol on the truck
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Another good reflection shot. You can see the hot water tank in the right corner along with the clock on the wall and you can make out the oil bottles on the sign hanging. Obviously the bobcat
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There are a few spots I am going to wet sand and then buff out. The hood hinge area and a few other spots.
 
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As always JSG, looking tight! You are correct on possibly ruining the decals to make repro's, that is usually the side effect to making a reproduction part, you have to ruin an N.O.S. one.
 
I guess I don't understand how it would be ruined. Besides, you are going to sell the ski. I think you may be kicking yourself down the road if you don't get them scanned....any value you lose in a scratch or whatever in the decal won't loose that much value, because you know that the owner you sell it to will probably scratch them up as well, it happens to all skis
 
You have to peel the masking tape top off the decals to expose the color, and that would be ubber hard.

Its a full complete set of decals though?? I pretty much guarantee those are the last ones in existence.

As much as you all SAY you want some, I would guess it would cost a few hundred to scan and setup and a 3-400 to actually print.

Its the exhaust hoses all over again...lol
 
Yeah, but the scan is a one time thing. I'm betting he would have a 99spx come up that he would buy again and those decals would be insanely hard to find EVER again, I'm not saying you have to, just food for thought
 
You have to peel the masking tape top off the decals to expose the color, and that would be ubber hard.

Its a full complete set of decals though?? I pretty much guarantee those are the last ones in existence.

As much as you all SAY you want some, I would guess it would cost a few hundred to scan and setup and a 3-400 to actually print.

Its the exhaust hoses all over again...lol

Right now on hand, we have both lower decals, both front lateral, both rear lateral and the hood deflector decal, we also ordered all of the little decals too they just have not came in yet. The only decals we do not have is the spx between the gauges and the decal that goes around the dess post. I did not look for those. Nick if you look on the last page I have a pic of the larger ones that we have right now.
 
That is my guess too. I know it will not be cheap. I doubt anyone would want them either at a high cost. I am sure to make it worth it I would have to order like 10 sets.
 
Tonight we wet sanded the bottom of the hull. We started at 600 then went to 800,1000,1200

Oh yeah look what we found when we flipped it over. A jet dynamics intake grate, and a gouge that we are going to have to fill, there is actually a couple scrapes we will need to fill as well

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Now to the sanding

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Today we did a few things first we sandlasted the handle bars, there was alot of rust on these but they turned out great


Before sand blasting
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After sand blasting

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We also are attempting to do gel coat repair. There are a few scratches and chips on the bottom of the hull we want to fix

At first I looked into getting the Evercoat large patch kit
I was looking to get it at westmarine but you can get the stuff cheaper on amazon but I did not want to wait for it to be shipped.

Here is a link to the kit $48.99

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http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...&subdeptNum=50219&classNum=50224#.UUbJ-oy9KSM

I went to west marine to buy that kit and while I was reading the package I noticed on the shelf you could just buy all the individual ingrediants in larger portions. So I looked at what was in the kit
6 pigment colors but very small bottles
Mixing cups and sticks
4 ounces of gelcoat paste
1/4 ounce of hardener
Release film
Cleaning solvent

After reading that we decided not to get the kit and here is why

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1 pint of gelcoat paste (16 ounces) $31.99
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...&subdeptNum=50219&classNum=50224#.UUbLdYy9KSM


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Hardener catalyst $6.49 about 10 times the amount of what is in the kit
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...&subdeptNum=50219&classNum=50221#.UUbMD4y9KSM
Now this could get expensive but for most people you would not need all the colors, we just got black but we will be buying the blue white and yellow.

1 large tube of pigment(again ten times the amount than the kit size) $10.99

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http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...&subdeptNum=50219&classNum=50222#.UUbMwoy9KSM

Mixing cups and sticks we bought at the dollars store spent $3

We already had a cleaning agent, all you need is acetone, quart at home depot is like $7

And their special release paper is literaly just wax paper. $1.50 at any grocery store.

So that is the kit in a nutshell so for a few more bucks we bought enough to fix many seadoos in the future.

We spent about $54 dollars so we spent a little more but ended up with a better bang for our buck.
 
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Here are the steps we have taken so far.

We already had the hull completely wet sanded and now the hull is dull and has many little scratches but we can see the larger scratches.

So here is what we will be using.

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As you can see it was everything from above with a few extra items.
We bought measuring spoons at the dollar store
We also bought an oral suringe to measure the amount of pigment to mix in. $2 at any pharmacy

So first things first.

Sand the edges of the scratch with 100 grit paper.

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Then clean the area with acetone, many times. You want it very clean.

When the acetone dries place a strip of masking tape on each side of the scratch, running parrallel to the scratch.

Now that your area is ready it is time to start mixing,

I mixed a small batch, if you read the instructions the mixing instructions are for an ounce, but I mixed it at half of that.

1 tablespoon is equivelant to 1/2 an ounce

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Then for pigment it says to use 1/20 of the amount so we used about .75 millileters. We put the suringe inside the pigment and just extracted the right amount.

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Then we used 6 drops of hardener and just mixed up everything.

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Now after it is all mixed up we took the suringe again and sucked up some of our gelcoat mixture.

Just run a bead of the mixture in your scratch or gouge.

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After you have ran your bead take a plastic putty knife or squegee and scrape or run it over the area to smooth out the area and take away all of the extra material.

Then pull off the masking tape

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The dry time depends on the temp. The colder it is the more hardener you will want to apply.

Now we left it alone to dry.
Some people say to place wax paper over it to dry but others say just leave it.
So for this one we just left it.

Tomorrow we will wet sand it all down and then buff it out.

So right now the jury is out and we do not know exactly what the final results will be but we will soon know.

By the way this batch I made up was enough to do every scratch on the bottom and side of the hull. I was amazed at how well this filled and spread. So if you have just a few scratches I would even cut this batch in half.
 
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Here are the steps we have taken so far.

We already had the hull completely wet sand and now the hull is dull and has many little scratches but we can see the larger scratches.

So here is what we will be using.

513.jpg


As you can see it was everything from above with a few extra items.
We bought measuring spoons at the dollar store
We also bought an oral suringe to measure the amount of pigment to mix in. $2 at any pharmacy

So first things first.

Sand the edges of the scratch with 100 grit paper.

514.jpg


Then clean the area with acetone, many times. You want it very clean.

When the acetone dries place a strip of masking tape on each side of the scratch, running parrallel to the scratch.

Now that your area is ready it is time to start mixing,

I mixed a small batch, if you read the instructions the mixing instructions are for an ounce, but I mixed it at half of that.

1 tablespoon is equivelant to 1/2 an ounce

515.jpg


Then for pigment it says to use 1/20 of the amount so we used about .75 millileters. We put the suringe inside the pigment and just extracted the right amount.

516.jpg


Then we used 6 drops of hardener and just mixed up everything.

517.jpg


Now after it is all mixed up we took the suringe again and sucked up some of our gelcoat mixture.

Just run a bead of the mixture in your scratch or gouge.

518.jpg


After you have ran your bead take a plastic putty knife or squegee and scrape or run it over the area to smooth out the area and take away all of the extra material.

Then pull of the masking tape

519.jpg



The dry time depends on the temp. The colder it is the more hardener you will want to apply.

Now we left it alone to dry.
Some people say to place wax paper over it to dry but others say just leave it.
So for this one we just left it.

Tomorrow we will wet sand it all down and then buff it out.

So right now the jury is out and we do not know exactly what the final results will be but we will soon know.

By the way this batch I made up was enough to do every scratch on the bottom and side of the hull. I was amazed at how well this filled and spread. So if you have just a few scratches I would even cut this batch in half.
I used the evercoat kit from Amazon. Worked good for my needs. The yellow was a bitch to try and match though. lol
 
Tonight we wet sanded the gelcoat patches. The gelcoat filled the scratches well but they are off in color, I probably needed to use a little more pigment. I could also touch up a few low areas but I got what I wanted accomplished, We just wanted the deep gouges to be filled.

We also only could buff out a small section, I did not realize we were so low on heavy cut compound. So in the morning I will order more and hopefully I will get it on Friday.

Here are some pictures of the sections we did get done though

We wet sanded with 600 grit
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Here is one of the filled sections after it was sanded, the hull is wet and you can see the difference in the patch
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Here is what it looks like filled and polished, the color looks greyish up close but from a distance it looks good.
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Looks like a mirror
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Well you can easily see the conduit and reznor heater on the ceiling
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You can see some low spots in the scratches
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Looks like I missed a few spots lol
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So it went from this
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To this, the picture is upside down for some reason
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Just thought I would put these pictures closer togethor

When I sanded the edges I tried to v out the ends of the scratch and smooth out the sides. I am not an expert at all this was my first attempt and I am so far happy with the result. To fill in deep scratches and gouges seems easy, it is the areas with alot of finer scratches from beaching that may deem troublesome. You would almost just have to skim coat the area.
 
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Good work on the scratches. I agree the prep work is very important, must be very clean for the gelcoat to stick. The only thing I do different is not even bother with masking tape, put on multiple coats of gelcoat with a brush to build it up. When it starts to kick, take the squeegee and remove the excess. Wet sand and buff the next day. Matching the color is the hardest part.
 
I did not mean they would be hard to do. More like there are alot of smaller scratches to fill on most seadoos,and the time it would take to fill all of them to make the bottom completely smooth like glass would be a big task to take on. I think we may have only had 1-2 hulls that the bottom of the hull was in great shape. Almost everyone beaches their skis and even in just sand it will eventually leave scratches. I am just going to make sure the sides and front portion is almost perfect and the bottom we will just fill the larger scratches and gouges,
 
Just got a couple more decals in, we do not pull any decals off until the new ones come in. We have everything but the front badge and the spx between the gauges.

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We got this in too, but I am not putting this on the 99 I want the original one. This is the one that supercedes it. I may put it on the 98spx or maybe the 97xp

Nose badge
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We got this in too, but I am not putting this on the 99 I want the original one. This is the one that supercedes it. I may put it on the 98spx or maybe the 97xp

Yep, that is the one I got in place of the orig. one on my Speedster steering wheel. It's nice but not correct.
 
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