97 XP shutting off

[qstorm]

Haven't rode my ski since it was fixed from taking on water. I start every week too let it run for about 30sec and then shut it off.
I took it out to go riding this past weekend. Start it, connect the hose and let it run. After about 5-6 mins of idling it will shut off.
When It starts it goes to a medium idle and then to a lower idle which is normal to me, but my problem is every time I hit the throttle, it dies and keep doing the same thing over and over. Even when I ride same thing, I have to keep giving it gas. I am using 50:1 mixure. Do you think its the gas or something else.
BTW Carbs were rebuild over a month ago but never rode it.

Any suggestions.

Thanks
QS:redface:

 

[timmyboy76]

hey...I'd recheck the fuel system again, inline filter,selector, and carbs. Recheck the carb settings...:cheers:

 

[qstorm]

I adjusted the idle settings a little and I got a different response. The ski sounds like its going to bog out when I press the accelerator. Before as I hit the accelerator it would die, but now its starts to and as soon as I let go it starts idling. I think I am on the right path, should I adjust the low speed settings?

Another question, after reading many post, the gray cable issue keeps popping up. The gray cables on the carbs have been replaced. Should it be replaced throughout the ski?

 

[robin savell lloyd]

Yes replace the gray cable looking things and clean the internal carb filters and I am sure you will realy see a big differance. fast as fast can be :rofl:

 

[qstorm]

The carbs was just rebuild. what size are those cables. Whats should I ask for at autzone? Since I am not home I would love to grab those before I head home. About how many feet of cable do I need?

 

[robin savell lloyd]

I am not sure of the fuel line size but if the carbs were just serviced properly the fuel lines should not be a huge issue now but they need to be replaced asap. :cheers:

 

[qstorm]

ok, great. So should I adjust the low speed screws to see if that stop the bogging.

Another question, my MPEM was just replaced along with my solenoid and all electrical harnesses from ski taking on saltwater. Now when I try to start the ski and can hear the solenoid clicking but I have to keep pressing the start button many times before it starts turning over. What could that be. The mechanic was saying possible bad ground somewhere???????????????????? One thing I can remember in that box is the wires were spliced using those electrical connectors. The wire is black when you strip it the water changed the color or they are suppose to be that color. Any ideas why its not turning over on the first shot

 

[robin savell lloyd]

If the ski is not running properly do not run it as you can cause severe damage. I will try and comment on some of your other isues later unless some one else addresses them good luck. :cheers:

 

[timmyboy76]

qstorm...those are corroded/burnt wires..they should look copper. 1/4in line at autozone, with 20-30 new hose clamps. Might go through your wires/cables again, anything that looks burnt/corroded even the ends, replace them...:cheers:

 

[robin savell lloyd]

That is what I was thinking. Timmy knows what he is talking about. :agree:

 

[derek]

many tries to get engine to crank is a bad solenoid.

 

[kustomkarl]

If you have gray fuel lines you need to replace them all with black fuel lines available from auto parts stores like Auto Zone. Measure the length you need and bring a sample with you so you get the correct size. Be sure to use “1/4 ID Black Fuel Line” Replace one at a time so you don’t get them mixed up. If you need clamps replace them too. Use small stainless steel clamps also from the auto parts store
It sounds like the ground- wire from the battery to the engine by the starter is not getting a good connection. Next, To test to see if the solenoid is bad open the MPEM,(Multi Purpose Electronic Module) and where the solenoid is. use a 14 guage insulated wire and jump across the 2 main terminals. It will bypass the solenoid and allow the starter to roll over. if this happens now replace the solenoid.
As for the carburetor adjustment, the Low speed screws( have a pin through them) should start at 1 1/2 turns. The High speed screws( have a plastic cap on them)should be set to "0". the plastic cap will only allow 1/4 turn adjustment. Both carbs should be in sync. also.
Keep us posted on you progress.

Karl

 

[qstorm]

Once again thanks for all you help. So here is my progress.
Replace the solenoid cause it had a loud clicking noise. That worked.

I am really getting annoyed for the simple fact the mechanic who caused all this problem keeps charging me every time I take back the ski to him to correct things that he didn't complete. After rebuilding the carbs, and starting the ski, he just returns it to you. He charges to take it out for a test drive. How do you stand behind your work if you don't test it. He has made over $1600 the last two times the ski has been in the shop and still can't get my ski to idle properly and take off with out shutting off......Just had to get that off my chest. So now i am doing the work myself cause if I take it back to him I might end up with a charge..:reddevil:

Anyways. I think I found what may be my low speed screws but these don't have the pins through them. Here are some pics. Let me know if these are the right screws. Also I found the Idle speed screw. I was adjust them 1/4 turn at a time and not 1 1/2.
Wasn't sure which way to start turning, so I went clock wise. Without even a full 1/4 turn it was at its max. So I went counter clock wise and these were my results

Idling normal but hitting the gas, it sounds like it going to shut off. According to the mechanic he says something about a one way valve so I have to give it gas slowly until it picks up. I think thats garbage cause it never used to do that.

So this was my thought. I figure since I don't have a pump anymore and i am using 50:1 mixture I thought I would just add more oil because the gas in the little fuel cup just looked like gas...LOL and not like it had oil mixture (stupid i know) So I pour some oil in that cup and about two ounces in my tank.
Started it up and it started racing as if my hand was on the throttle. Had to turn the screws the other way for it to calm down. Hit the gas and it would shut off.
Its late so I am giving it a rest until tomorrow.

Conclusion/Theory : Did I have the right mixture. Are my hoses the problem. Or are my settings off?

BTW: When I bought the ski over 2 years ago, a lot of work was done to it. The ski was toping out at 70mph. The mechanic was impressed with all the work that was done to it. Yesterday I was only getting 50 mph. What would cause that?
I forgot to mention, when I start it up and hit the throttle on the water I am ok until i lead up off the throttle, then it cuts off when i hit it.

Thanks again.

 

[kustomkarl]

Your first picture over looking the air filters is your High Speed Screw. The adjustment is "0". The 3 rd picture shows a screw with a pin through it. This is your Low Speed Screw. The adjustment is 1 1/2. The idle screw is near the cable adjust plate and adjusts both carbs with 1 screw. If you over adjust the high speed screw it will bog down..leave it at all the way in. If you over adjust the Low Speed Screw you could seize your engine. Make sure you only adjust the Low Speed screws about 1/4 turn in any direction at a time and adjust both carbs so they are in sync. To adjust the idle only use the Idle Screw...not the Low Speed Screws.

I hope this clears it up for you ...

Karl

 

[qstorm]

PROGRESS.

So I have adjust the High Speed Screw to 0. I turn them clockwise to until there were locked? Is that the correct direction?
I started adjusting the low speed screws clockwise but was getting great results. Turning them counter clockwise along with the idle screw, I was getting better idling. The ski would start up with one press of the button and no choke.
It still bogs out when giving gas. After adjusting the Idle speed screw a couple more 1/4 turns, hit the throttle slowly it will rev like crazy. I have to remove the key to stop stop.
So I am thinking there has to be a pressure issue some where and enough gas is not getting somewhere.

So these are my next steps:

1. I am changing out the gray cables. These are a pain in the but to install. Are there different size 1/4" cables, meaning the hole is bigger?
2. I would like to start tuning the low speed screw from the start. Do I turn them clockwise until they are locked then back them off 1/4 turn at a time?

thanks in advance

 

[JPX]

High Speed (HSA) set to 0 - closed by rotating clockwise (no need to CRANK on it, just until it feels closed lightly). Sounds like you got that done right.

Low Speed (LSA) - Close by rotating clockwise until it stops. Again don't crank on it, just close it lightly. Then back it off counter-clockwise the correct number of turns - 1.5 turn is a starting point. Any further adjustments should be 1/4 turn at a time and make sure you do the same amount for BOTH carbs.

Idle - set INDEPENDENTLY of the LSA and HSA screws. Do not try to set idle with LSA.

For replacing the grey hoses, 1/4" automotive fuel hose is about all the description you need. You will need almost 30 Stainless Steel #04 size hose clamps as well.

 

[qstorm]

Thanks JPX, I got those clamps and the hose, already start changing those out. One question. From that fuel filter to the carb there is a black tubing looking like a splice. Is that from the factory? and is it needed or should I run one straight hose? which is what I did.

Thanks
Qs

 

[qstorm]

Can anyone tell me if that tube which is like a splice joining two hoses coming from that gas filter to the carb needed.

 

[JPX]

It's just a splice point. You can eliminate it while running your new hose. In theory you could use that splice point for attaching a fuel pressure gauge while doing diagnostics.

My HX has one as well. I left it in out of habit of returned things to the way they were as much as possible. But now that I think about it, I could have eliminated it and saved two hose clamps.

 

[qstorm]

Is there a bigger size opening on the 1/4" fuel line. I am having a hard time getting this hose on the selector. My knuckles are bruised up like crazy:redface:.

The gray hose I am taking off is way wider than the black one I am putting on

 

[nswillin]

On my xp I had some lines that where 6mm and some were 8mm. Look on your old hose if it says 6mm use 1/4, if it says 8mm use 5/16.

 

[qstorm]

Sweet. I did see that. Was only told to get 1/4. Makes sense now. Thanks for the quick response

 

[qstorm]

So I am almost done changing hoses. I have two questions. 1. Are there any other fuel lines other than whats going from the baffle to the selector and to the carb and filter in the ski?

2. When I am tunning the carbs via the low speed screws, should I be adjusting these while the ski is running or not running. I have been doing it not running. Reading the manual I notice it says make sure the ski is hooked up to the flush kit.

Thanks

 

[robin savell lloyd]

I would try it not runing and see how it performs and go from there. :cheers:

 

[qstorm]

thanks robin..wish me luck