RESTO 97 Speedster cold, long winter resto project

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Had the whole day to work on the boat today. Got the carbs on and all cables installed and adjusted. I got a new steering cable and RH throttle cable from SBT which came in the other day. The throttle cable tore apart when I was installing it, so I'll be sending that back and waiting another week for a new one. Hoping to get the steering cable installed tomorrow, along with draining the gas and re installing the flame arrestors. Also, the right shifter cable was so rusted that it snapped when I pulled the control handle out, so I'll be trying to convert it to a single cable shift system (seen here: http://seadoosportboats.com/topic/9-how-to-speedster-14-shifter-conversion/)

Didn't take any pics of the install, but here's a boring pic of the cables :rolleyes:
 
Quick update, got the flame arrestor and air box back on the port engine. Someone has definitely messed with these before, because one of the flame arrestors was actually from a 787 (has embossment), so I didn't install that one today. Just ordered the correct one on ebay. Got the back end of the steering cable unscrewed from the transom, but with the helm installed I'm having trouble removing the nut circled below because of the limited space. Any tips? I think I might just have to buy the puller tool and take the helm off.



 
Got all my parts in from brp and ebay. Now I just need to install them and I should be good to go!!:driving: The only thing I'm still waiting on is the throttle cable from SBT (shipped the broken one back). I'm having trouble getting the steering wheel off still. I've sprayed pb blaster on it all week and it just won't budge using the hammer trick. Does anyone have one of those steering wheel pullers made by BRP?
 
BRP's puller was just ok, grab a free rental from your local auto parts franchise in a harmonic balancer puller that has both the straight up and down opposing guides and the two offset angles. Just use the two opposing sides and the smaller diameter bolts with washers and nuts big enough on the backside to contact the edge of the inner metal flange and the thick outside diameter of the circle.

Just snug it up tight by hand and walk away from it, ten minutes or ten hours later it will remove itself just like a flywheel does when it pops loose. The trick is to get it good and snug without bearing down on it to the point something breaks, they always pop loose from the pressure if left to work on them that way.
 
Got all the old gas out today, then filled it with some new gas, fuel stabilizer, and oil (just while the oil injection systems bleeds all the air out). Didn't have a chance to start it though. I also rented a harmonic balancer tool, but when I started tightening it the bolts were bending and cracking the steering wheel. I think I might just have to bring it to the dealer and let them pull it off.
 
Got both fuel filters changed today. All that's left to do is the steering cable and throttle cable, and I'll probably do a pump oil change just for the heck of it. Just can't get the damn steering wheel off, I'll have the dealer do it sometime this week. Also, shout out to SBT for their phenomenal customer service. They are sending me a brand new throttle cable that will be here Tuesday!! :hurray:
 
Changed the pump oil and reinstalled the pumps. Also got the throttle cable routed through the hull, just have to hook it up tomorrow. Then all that's left is to replace the steering cable, neutral switch, and hook up the reverse link bar!



 
Engines are finally done! All that's left is the reverse lever and throttle cable. Still working on the reverse linkage bar though. I got the holes drilled but the bolts interfere with the pump (where I marked in red), so I'll sand them down with my grinder tomorrow.





 
Reverse connecting rod install went great! Went to my local store and picked up some 1/4" bolts, then drilled into the buckets. The heads of the bolts rubbed against the mounting points slightly, so I just took my grinder and sanded them down.







I can get more pics if anyone's interested in doing this themselves.
 
IT RUNS!!:hurray::hurray: Popped in some new spark plugs and after cranking for a couple seconds both engines fired up. I only ran them for a split second, but it sounded like the idle may be low on the starboard side, so I'll have to do some tuning at the lake. All that's left is steering cable and neutral switch!
 
:cheers:Good job, go have fun with it and enjoy the summer you earned it that boat really came out nice after all your hard work!
 
Great project.


I resorted 2 seadoo boats over the years. Always a good way to save $$$, and be satisfied with a job well done.
 
MLars said:
Thanks guys! And thanks so much Bob for all the help you've been!
Click to expand...

Anytime Matt, I like to help you guys out that aren't afraid to take the time and spend the money to do it right and a restoration that stands tall and runs properly requires lots of both as you well know. These jet boats made from '96 on into the early 2000 models were really a unique product, the grin factor from one that's dialed in and maintained properly is priceless.

Hope it pays you back with some good memories and a fun season this year, take some more pics when you get it out on the water. :driving:
 
Thanks again guys. I'll have plenty of pictures this summer. I've also recorded the whole restoration on my gopro, so I'll be able to put together a video also
 
Neutral switch is in, but when drilling out the old rusty bolt the drill bit must have slipped because when I put in a new bolt the switch was not pressed when in neutral. So I just drilled a hole below the entire piece and put the bolt through there. Then I threw some duct tape on there for good measure. I met some old school mechanics that think they'll be able to pull the steering wheel. I also finally got around to washing the cover and coating it in the 303 vinyl guard.







 
Took out the polisher yesterday and compounded and polished the interior. I used 3M marine rubbing compound and 3M finesse it 2 polish.





 
Haven't updated recently but I've gotten a decent amount done. I don't think I've mention it before, but this boat had a huge ant problem when we got it. I think they're carpenter ants because they dug their way through the foam floatation and have made a nest in there. I've sprayed it dozens of times with poison, but they keep coming back. After doing some research online I heard Terro makes the most effective ant traps. I taped some to the guard rail and put three in the engine bay. When I checked last night they had completely drank two in the engine bay and one by the rubrails.

Also on a side note, the steering wheel is off :willy_nilly:, I finished rebuilding my lanyard using weedeater line (courtesy of WFO Speedracer: http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?t=374391) and finished soldering on the new trailer plug. Hope to get the steering cable and drain plug in today, then take it to the lake Friday!!!




This was in the early stages of the ants, it got so bad the bottom was completely black from all the ants trying to eat the goo



 
MLars said:
...I heard Terro makes the most effective ant traps. I taped some to the guard rail and put three in the engine bay. When I checked last night they had completely drank two in the engine bay and one by the rubrails.

Also on a side note, the steering wheel is off :willy_nilly:, I finished rebuilding my lanyard using weedeater line (courtesy of WFO Speedracer: http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?t=374391) and finished soldering on the new trailer plug. Hope to get the steering cable and drain plug in today, then take it to the lake Friday!!!
Click to expand...

That Terro ant killer is the only thing that has worked in my house. It is good stuff.

THanks for posting the lanyard link. I need to do this and had never heard of using weedeater line.

Good luck for Friday.
These boats SUCK when they don't work, but are awesome when they do. :)
 
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