RESTO 97 Speedster cold, long winter resto project
- Thread starter MLars
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MLars
Active Member
Alright finally got the steering cable in! The hardest part was trying to get a bolt off the rusted old cable that I had to use on the new one. It took me 2 hours and half a can of pb blaster to get it to budge. Right on track so far to get the boat on the water Friday though. Tomorrow I'm gonna take the helm cover off and paint that to match the hood, then probably grease the electrical connections and go over everything one last time. Also gotta register it at the RMV.
MLars
Active Member
Gave it a good coating of wax today. Also switched the wiring between tachometers to see why the starboard tach isn't working. When I plugged the SB tach into the port engine (which idles around 3000 out of water), it launched up to 5000. I switched the wiring back and it still didn't work right on the SB engine, but after tapping it a little it jumped up to 1000, so I'll have to replace it at some point.
MLars
Active Member
The boat is finally DONE! After 3 trips to the RMV, the trailer is finally registered. Yesterday I got the drain plug in (what a pain) and sealed everything up with silicone. Also did some more cleaning and waxing. Planning on putting the boat in on Friday for a test run, then heading to NH next week for vacation :hurray:
MLars
Active Member
Success!! The boat ran great this morning! Have a very small leak around the drain plug, so I'll just have to throw some more silicone on it. Forgot to bring my gopro, but I'm at the lake all next week so I'll have some good footage to show you guys. Thank you to everyone that helped and commented on this thread. And a special thanks to Waterluvr for all his advice and doing my carbs, this project would not have happened without him. So if you're ever in need of having your carbs looked at, I cannot recommend him enough. See you on the water! :coolgleam:
MLars
Active Member
So it's running great so far, BUT the scupper valve isn't working, which is letting lots of water enter the sitting area and draining into the bilge. Good thing I checked before heading out or else I would have ruined both motors (and good thing my bilge pump works)! Anyone know of any general boat stores that would carry the correct one?
jhjesse
Well-Known Member
You should be able to get one at most any marine supply.
http://www.overtons.com/search/scupper
http://www.westmarine.com/search?text=scupper
http://www.boatersplus.com/index.ph...d=Y&q=scupper&dispatch=products.search&page=1
http://www.overtons.com/search/scupper
http://www.westmarine.com/search?text=scupper
http://www.boatersplus.com/index.ph...d=Y&q=scupper&dispatch=products.search&page=1
Waterluvr
New Member
Should be, your local dealer can run the HIN# through the service recall database and get approval for the warranty work. If you don't want to mess with the dealer all you have to do is remove the old exterior trim ring and any 3" ball scupper base will fit.
We went over this one before on here. I posted pics and links on where to buy the updated scupper. I think it's less than $20. I'd say unless your dealer is your next door neighbor it's not worth the time calling and driving to the dealer.
Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
MLars
Active Member
Awesome week at the lake. The deck drainage issue is mostly fixed, but I plan on installing an electric valve with a switch mounted somewhere on the cockpit. The port engine had lots of cavitation (would rev to 7k at 50% throttle on takeoff) and would randomly stall every once in a while, but the boat still had plenty of power to pull me on a slalom ski with 3 people in the boat. Also, the starboard carbon seal is what was causing the leak in the bilge, so hopefully I can fix that before we head back to the lake in a month. On the last trip taking it out of the water, the battery tray broke off (all the rivets were rusted and snapped). Does anyone have any good tips for installing a new one? Will I have to drill the rivets and put new ones in, or would something like liquid nail work well enough? I remember reading RFoster use liquid nail when installing a second battery. Overall, the boat was a success! Just needs some minor tweaking.
suke
Well-Known Member
I know this isn't a popular opinion but I'd get rid of the carbon seal and go with the carrier bearing. Everyone on this site cares enough about maintenance that greasing the bearing a couple times a season you'll be fine. You'll never have to worry about water leaking in or cavitation. There's so many other cavitation points might as well rule one of them out 100%.
Was the cavitation all the time or only when trying to get up on a slalom ski? Being a big boy (230#) I won't even try getting up on a slalom. Every time I would try I could tell the boat was using all it had to get up on plane. I start on two skis and shake a leg and drop a ski. Then I can cut back and forth. Slalom is really too much for these older little jet boats. Also if it only is happening on one side then you know something isn't quite right. Seal the pump shoe to the hull really good, use a new neoprene seal on the pump shoe, verify the wear ring is good and make sure you have grease in the PTO to push the shaft back. But, if you have everything good to go you should be able to drop the hammer and take off, especially if one side has no problem.
I dig that clear scupper!
I would just drive the rivets down and re-rivet they tray down.
I dig that clear scupper!
I would just drive the rivets down and re-rivet they tray down.
MLars
Active Member
Thanks guys for the advice. I'll think about the carrier bearing. I feel like if I do the carbon seals they should be good for long enough until I'm ready to get rid of the boat haha. It cavitates whenever I try to get out of the hole quickly, but it's more noticeable while skiing. It doesn't have a problem pulling me on slalom (I'm only 160lbs), but it's a pain to have to watch the port engine to make sure it's not bouncing off the limiter while the other is still only at 5k.
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