Yeah, I ended up having to use a stubby 3/8” ratchet with a low profile Allen socket. That thing was TIGHT and it was tough to get much leverage but I finally got it to break loose!Sometimes there is a socket head bolt holding it on and few of us have something shallow enough to get in there. Go back with a regular hex head. Lots of times that bolt isn't even installed or the whole bracket is left off.Then you have the mystery bolt under the engine you have to feel for.
Yep. Be sure you seal the starter with some RTV or something by the o-rings. Any moisture in there will cause the brushes to corrode and it won't work. Even OEM starters. I don't replace the bearings unless something is bad. 95% of the time I clean it all up and replace the brush holder alone. Chances are you get too large an o-ring for the bolt that connects to positive cable. I end up using the old one as it is smaller. Good Luck!
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RESTO 95 XP800 Resto Thread
- Thread starter Loganab13
- Start date
Had a rare day off today so I decided to take a look at the starter. Per the advice of @etemplet, I tore down the starter that came on the ski to try and figure out if it's an OEM or some sort of aftermarket. I'm still not 100% sure since the tag is painted over, but the internals seemed to pretty well match all of the other known OEM starters I've rebuilt in the past, with the exception of the exterior being painted black instead of white. To my surprise the internals were almost spotless and the brushes were in good shape. So I decided to roll the dice, clean everything thoroughly and put it back together. I bench tested it afterwords and sure enough, it appears to work like a charm.
I still haven't had the chance to send my MPEM off to @Minnetonka4me to get keys programmed to it and I didn't feel like swapping the gray box in from my 96 since it was getting late, so hopefully I'll have more time this coming weekend to check compression and see if it'll start. I noticed the rear e-box was broken at the battery tray, so I pulled it out and will replace it with a spare I had laying around. The fiberglass around the screws holding the box to the hull is stripped, so I'll have to address that as well. Rivnuts maybe?
I still haven't had the chance to send my MPEM off to @Minnetonka4me to get keys programmed to it and I didn't feel like swapping the gray box in from my 96 since it was getting late, so hopefully I'll have more time this coming weekend to check compression and see if it'll start. I noticed the rear e-box was broken at the battery tray, so I pulled it out and will replace it with a spare I had laying around. The fiberglass around the screws holding the box to the hull is stripped, so I'll have to address that as well. Rivnuts maybe?
Looks like I picked a good one to save.
I swapped the gray box from my 96 in, sprayed a little premix down the carb throats and it cranked twice and fired right up. Only issue, after checking compression, I went to start it up and it blew the 15A fuse in the rear e-box. I replaced it and it immediately blew again. I vaguely remember chasing this issue when I restored my 96, but can’t recall what fixed it other than checking grounds. Any ideas?
I swapped the gray box from my 96 in, sprayed a little premix down the carb throats and it cranked twice and fired right up. Only issue, after checking compression, I went to start it up and it blew the 15A fuse in the rear e-box. I replaced it and it immediately blew again. I vaguely remember chasing this issue when I restored my 96, but can’t recall what fixed it other than checking grounds. Any ideas?
If this is an XP with trim motor pull the 7.5 amp fuse from the trim.
Deutsch connector for the VTS unit is unplugged, first thing I tried and it still popped the fuse. I’m wondering if there’s metal shavings or something going on with the stator. Need to test for continuity at the rectifier tomorrow I guess.
I "saved" a 1995 787x XP800 last year. It's almost the identical condition as yours. Left outside for 10 years, the seat was trashed from being sun baked I was able to get it running but stator was bad and had issues with the ebox. Compression was 150 and the engine bolts were never touched. Paint was perfect and not chipped. But after a day of running buoys it start slowing down and I stopped riding. I eventually pulled the motor figuring all the seals were trashed. Nope the front bearing came out in pieces and had a minor seizure. Rebuilt the crank and honed the cylinders. More ebox issues but finally got it running ok. Replaced the VTS, the fuel tank float and battery box. I have WAY too much time and effort into this boat but after racing it at some local races (even winning a few motos) it takes me back to the 90's when these things kicked my ass in runabout class.
Good luck with yours and keep us posted.
Good luck with yours and keep us posted.
I was bummed about the condition of the seat and the missing bar pad when I picked it up. The real kicker is I had a mint yellow bar pad from my 96 that I sold thinking I’d never use it after switching to aftermarket bars. I just love the way these 95’s look with the hump seat and stock bars.
That sucks to hear about the seizure. I plan to check everything I can as thoroughly as possible before running it. This will be my winter project so I’m in no rush. Post some pics of yours when you get a chance!
At the end of this video he shows how to convert a flat seat to a hump seat with a conversion kit that you can buy. It may be helpful in your situation. You might be able to repair your seat with this kit.
Spent some time this weekend going through the front and rear electrical boxes. Other than an aftermarket voltage regulator that I replaced with an OEM unit, the front gray box was pristine on the inside. Cleaned up the outside and called it good. The rear e-box was a mess and water had been in there previously. Cleaned all of the internals and terminals and it looks good as new. The original e-box and battery tray was cracked, but I had a spare laying around. Still need to put rivnuts or something in the hull where it sits as the fiberglass is currently stripped out in all five screw holes.
Also cleaned up the 96s to get them ready to go to their new owner this coming week.
Starting to have second thoughts about selling the XP, but I really don’t need two skis. I’ve put a lot of work into it the last few years and will be sad to see it go. I guess it’s too late for that now anyway.
Starting to have second thoughts about selling the XP, but I really don’t need two skis. I’ve put a lot of work into it the last few years and will be sad to see it go. I guess it’s too late for that now anyway.
Yep, will seal them up with epoxy down the road.
Ordered a bunch of parts from OSD Marine today. Back to OEM carb kits, fuel line, oetiker clamps, rave rebuild kits, anti rattle kit and a bunch of miscellaneous vent grommets/mushroom caps that I needed.
Remind me, with the back to OEM kits, what is the consensus on reusing the original springs versus the springs that come with the OSD kits? I’m 99% sure my carbs have never been opened based on the paint on the screws, but I can’t be positive.
Remind me, with the back to OEM kits, what is the consensus on reusing the original springs versus the springs that come with the OSD kits? I’m 99% sure my carbs have never been opened based on the paint on the screws, but I can’t be positive.
You can use the springs that come with the back to OEM kit but don’t throw away the springs your taking out
Right on, thanks Burt
Made progress on the fuel system today.
It wouldn’t be a proper post about fuel line replacement without a green goo pic:
Found out my fuel sender is toast today as well. Although it worked, the bottom is powdery and the mesh screen is either gone completely or at the bottom of the tank. So, a new sender is in order.
It wouldn’t be a proper post about fuel line replacement without a green goo pic:
Found out my fuel sender is toast today as well. Although it worked, the bottom is powdery and the mesh screen is either gone completely or at the bottom of the tank. So, a new sender is in order.
Is Purple Power still the go-to cleaner for the hulls? I put some dish soap and a few gallons of water in the hull and drove around for 20 miles or so which definitely helped, but I’d like to get it even cleaner if I can. I do hate the placement of the drain plug on these hulls, all of the junk collects behind the water box and it’s impossible to remove.
I use super clean for the bad grime and pressure wash
Home Depot happened to have a gallon of Purple Power for $10. I mixed it up 5:1 and it worked great with a little scrubbing. There’s still a bunch of junk and about a dozen battery bolts/nuts at the very back of the hull, but at least it’s clean enough to not get oily residue everywhere while working in in the hull!
I failed to take any pictures, but got a lot done on the ski this weekend. Finally finished replacing the last of the Tempo vent lines now that my replacement hull grommets and the little mushroom grommet under the hood arrived. I know you don’t have to replace the vent lines but I like, everything matching and organized.
Rebuilt the carbs today too. Was able to verify that they had never been open in the last 30 years. I was shocked to find the internals absolutely SPOTLESS. There was a tiny bit of junk in the internal filters but otherwise they were the cleanest set of carbs I’ve ever seen. Took me almost an hour to get all the gasket material off the accelerator pump cover though.
Sitting outside for so long really took its toll on this ski. Mechanically though this thing is in amazing condition.
Rebuilt the carbs today too. Was able to verify that they had never been open in the last 30 years. I was shocked to find the internals absolutely SPOTLESS. There was a tiny bit of junk in the internal filters but otherwise they were the cleanest set of carbs I’ve ever seen. Took me almost an hour to get all the gasket material off the accelerator pump cover though.
Sitting outside for so long really took its toll on this ski. Mechanically though this thing is in amazing condition.
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