'97 GTX won't start anymore

[dgoodwin10]

First, let me thank all the regular posters on here...this site is the only reason my Sea Doo is where it is today! Here is a little history on the GTX. I bought it in January from a guy who was a Sea Doo mechanic that needed to unload a project. He had run it for several years and last winter failed to winterize it (which he repeatedly admitted that it was stupid on his part). It managed to crack the jug water jacket, but still ran fine. After getting it home and tearing into it, I found the pistons and walls were scarred pretty bad. I ordered up SBT pistons that were .5mm over stock. I had a local machine shop bore the jugs and a welding shop TIG up the jug. While I was at it, I replaced the dreaded grey fuel lines and the coil (my bad). I got everything put back together and it fired right up. I ran it for a minute on the hose at my house. The small hose that connects the jugs and drains the water out of them had a split in it, so I pulled the exhaust off and replaced that hose. This is when my current problem arose. I had been using the battery out of my 4 wheeler to start it, which had been working fine. After I got the hose replaced, I can only get a 1/2 to a 1/4 of a turn from the starter before the Info Center goes blank. I get the 2 beeps when I put the DESS key on it. All the fuses are fine, the battery terminals and the power cables have been cleaned, and the battery was charged, all getting the same result. I also tried using my truck to jump it off (not running) and still got nothing. The starter solenoid was by-passed with the same result. Everything I have read is pointing to the starter being bad. Anything else I need to try before I completely drain my savings on a new starter? And feel free to ask if anything needs clearing up...its hard to focus when you're so frustrated you want to sell it!

 

[Dr Honda]

Take the spark plugs out and see how it cranks. Most likely, it will crank slow. If it does, then it's time to rebuild your starter.

On that note... the eBay starters are crap. Don't buy one. If you have an OEM stater... just buy the $20 rebuild kit, and clean up your stater. If you already have an aftermarket starter, buy a used OEM, or a new one. (if you have the $$$)

In years past, there was only one aftermarket starter company that was worth a dam... and I don't think they are in biz anymore since everyone looks for the cheap replacements. Goki starters were +$200, but they lasted forever.

 

[dgoodwin10]

With the plugs out it turns over fine. It did blow out a considerable amount of gas and oil (and a little bit of water) when I did that. Where the best place I can get a starter rebuild kit? It has an OEM starter in it

 

[B_PWC]

You mentioned the battery is charged and you tried from a truck. But what does the voltage read at the starter when it tries to start? My guess is the battery may show correct voltage at rest but when trying to start the ski the voltage will drop; when testing at the battery.

Can only hope it is that simple.

 

[dgoodwin10]

I haven't checked at the starter yet, but I will this afternoon. Before I go to the trouble of pulling it out Ill be checking all the grounds and connections at the starter. I haven't touched any of it while Ive had the ski, but I have also had weirder stuff happen to me.

 

[dgoodwin10]

Update: I noticed that the battery I was using was low on acid, so it was topped off and charged last night. I managed to get the doo to turn over enough to start once. After I tried to re-start, I got the 12v Low warning and the starter wouldn't turn over anymore. Im still thinking the starter is the issue-opinions?

 

[B_PWC]

Have you checked for voltage drop at the starter while trying to start the ski? I am still thinking weak battery/connections.

 

[dgoodwin10]

Update: I cleaned the positive connection at the starter as well as the engine block ground. I am getting just over 12 volts at the battery. When I try to start it, I get 5 volts or less at the starter and the battery voltage drops to under 10. I am working on getting a new battery as you read this

 

[B_PWC]

That confirms the battery. Hopefully you will be good to go and not need a starter too.

 

[dgoodwin10]

I am hoping so. In the event that I do need one, am I better off to get a used one or rebuild what I have? I don't really have the coin to shell out for a new one. I found a rebuild kit online for $30 and I have a place locally that said they can rewind it.

 

[B_PWC]

Dr Honda mentioned aftermarket starters are not so good. So if is OEM I would rebuild, if not buy an OEM.

 

[dgoodwin10]

Well, it turned out to be a battery issue. It cranked right up with a fresh (and correct) battery. But now I have a new issue. I am getting no oil into the engine. I am currently running a pre-mix as per top end break in instructions, so it is getting some. The line going to the oil bath is dry as is the small lines going to the carbs. I am going to pull the pump and bench test it like the manual says. But that still doesn't help with the line going to the bath. Any suggestions?

 

[seadoosnipe]

As I read your thread, it was obvious that the battery was your culprit. Now, you seem to have a problem with oiling?

On your rotary chamber, you have two oil lines. There is one at the bottom of your oil tank that supplies oil to the bottom of the chamber, then there is a vent line on the opposite side that runs to the top of the oil tank as a vent. If the oil in that line is level with the oil in your tank, then you have oil in your chamber. You might see an air bubble in it, but as long as that vent line has oil in it, the chamber is full. If you want, you can take that line off at the top (the vent line) and lower it into the hull to a cup, or something to catch the oil. Once the line is below the level of the oil tank, oil should overflow from the vent tube.

 

[dgoodwin10]

Thanks! I pulled the line and I do have oil in it. Is there any need to re-pressureize the system? (I thought I read that somewhere). Im going to be testing the oil pump tonight

 

[purple_people_eater]

yes you have to bleed the system, dr honda has some very nice instuctions on oil system maintenance here. just serch for it.

 

[dgoodwin10]

yes you have to bleed the system, dr honda has some very nice instuctions on oil system maintenance here. just serch for it.

Could you send a link to it? I can't seem to find it

Also, I have been searching around and have had a few questions regarding final prep for my ski before I run it (hopefully) this weekend.Since it has a new top end, I will be following SBT break-in instructions. Feel free to post links to other threads. As mentioned above, I bought this ski from a mechanic, so I am assuming that it was properly maintained. But we all know what assuming can do...

Here is a list of what I have done. Im still fairly new to this, so explanations are welcome!

The ski has BRP oil in the reservoir (found the jug in the front compartment). and will be replacing the small oil lines from the pump to the carbs tomorrow. UPDATE: Oil lines are replaced and the pump is good.

I have replaced all fuel lines

It has new spark plugs.

The PTO shaft fitting is greased.

The oil bath does have oil in it- Would it be worth it to flush it out and put new oil in it?

What am I missing? Ive been doing so much reading that Ive lost track of what to do! I would greatly appreciate a 'definitive' list to check over .

Thanks for any and all input!