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97 GTX coming back to life
- Thread starter 97explorer717
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97explorer717
Active Member
I knew better than to do that. That exact thought went through my mind when I was buying it.
noviceskier
Active Member
If the carbs are fine, what about the other parts of the fuel system? Isn't there a little pressure relief valve? A nipple that opens when it gets to 6psi I believe, maybe that's only on my 717 system. What about the fuel selector valve or strainer?
97explorer717
Active Member
I get it. I don't want ANY of my motors relying on starting fluid. I'm sure a one time deal just to see if it would fire is fine. Only took a half a second spray.
97explorer717
Active Member
I completely redid fuel system including fuel selector, lines, carbs rebuilt and even removing the fuel tank to clean. I did not see a relief valve unless somebody removed it. None of my previous 717s had it neither.
GGuillot
Well-Known Member
There's 2 pressure relief valves on a tee fitting going to the vent connection on top the tank. Sometimes they tend to gum up. You can remove them and spray some brake cleaner and blow them out. Make sure to put them back in the proper spot and direction. Both are ck valves, one relives pressure out and the other relives pressure in.
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97explorer717
Active Member
I see them and will check. Swapped the carbs out. Very hard starting and hesitation when first accelerating. Once it's going it runs good. Seems like carb issues. Somebody mentioned Coil. I have spark but may be weak. I'm not getting that strong tick, tick, tick like I'm used to seeing. Can't really hear it and has to be pretty dark to see it. From my experience on working on other Motors "not Seadoo" it would be weak. Also the rotary valve timing. I'm not going to say I can't make a mistake. I actually refreshed Myself by watching the SBT video before doing it. Pulled the numbers from my manual for that ski and marked it with the degree wheel. I remember saying to myself that it was nice it turned out exactly like the one on the video. My upper Mark was like 3 to 4 degrees off just like the one on the video. Flipped it over and that was as best as I could get it. Fairly sure that's not going to be it.
97explorer717
Active Member
Also seems to fire when on trailer better.
97explorer717
Active Member
I redid the compression test. When I purchased it was 155 on their gauge supposably. I'm reading 137 140 both cylinders. Now that's with a gauge from AutoZone. I'd like a Snap-On but you know. Sitting here reading threads that they'll run good on the trailer and bog down in the water. Is this compression acceptable? I know at the very least that top ends getting tired apparently. Also was wondering if I had too much oil. I'm mixed 32.1 just to give it a RE break in. I know that's rich. Normally run 40.1
97explorer717
Active Member
This is the highest readings I can get. I'm not ignoring what anybody said. If this is acceptable I'll pull the rotary valve and check timing. If that's fine I'm about to send the carbs out. Really think it's going to be a waste of money but at this point. After that I'm not sure what direction to go. I also ordered a OEM used coil. Supposably good and looks to be in great shape. Better than what mine look like. I cleaned that up and redid some of the wires with no change. Bad thing is it's an hour and a half to get to the water to test.
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noviceskier
Active Member
137 and 140 is fine, 120 and below is when you'll have trouble starting in water.
97explorer717
Active Member
Well the lower relief valve was jacked up. Both cleaned and put back in. Thanks for the info. Totally missed them. Now the fuel system is 100% completely done.
97explorer717
Active Member
OK this is where I'm at. Was very careful pulling the cover so the rotary valve would stay in place. From what I'm seeing this looks like it's within 2.5°. Book BTDC 146.5°. I can pull off and remark but unless I'm going about this wrong think I had it right. I'm not going to bolt it back on until someone can confirm this. I really appreciate everybody's help and I am not going to ignore one step. I made that mistake last time.
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97explorer717
Active Member
Yeah when I originally put it on I tried flipping it. Also I did it with the engine on the bench. I was able to look straight at it. I think just for the sake of it I'm going to remark it and just double check. Also thinking about drawing a straight line across that degree wheel. You did at least confirm that I'm doing it correct. I'm going to just see if I can get it closer.
97explorer717
Active Member
I had to recheck. That's my two options. It's the upper-upper mark. The bottom marks within a degree or two. I can just barely see the top of my mark where I skewed up a little. It went right back where I had it. Yes I did mag tdc. I'm closing it up. Thanks!Don't knock yourself out. You're good. Don't make to big a deal over this. As long as you are Top Dead Center on the Mag cylinder. You got it !!
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97explorer717
Active Member
Only gasket not getting replaced is the rubber O ring for the rotary valve cover. It was new OEM. Think that should be fine. I'm getting ready to use my fourth set of Base gaskets! New bolts, lock washers and torqued to spec everytime.Make sure you don't have any intake leaks.Use new carb gaskets. When you have issues you gotta start "nit-pickin"
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97explorer717
Active Member
Ended up buying a set of rebuilt carbs on eBay. Somebody posted a listing from this guy on this website in eBay section. I posted my experience and pictures shortly ago. Questionable at best! Only purchased just to make sure I wasn't making a mistake somewhere myself.
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