97 GTX coming back to life

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I'm gonna have to find out the name of the shop that did a friend's carbs. The looked absolutely great.
Apparently it's a good idea to run paint through your engine! This is the message I sent the guy on eBay and the response about the carbs. I can't believe this. Personally I think it's crazy. I know it's true but that's not the point. Really would be even more concerned bolting them on my rebuilt engine. Just let the gas eat the paint off and run through your engine! What about the flakes clogging up them freshly cleaned carbs. BTW 278.00!
 

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Wait, you paid $300 for used carbs?

You can get two brand new ones for $400 total.
It was 278.00. I got screwed then. I did not know they were still available. I would have definitely gone that direction. Just looking up year and model it said no longer available! I did need two good bodies due to Butterflies sticking butt....
 
Sorry we didn’t catch you sooner. OSD Seadoo sells them individually for $209 each complete.
 
Sorry we didn’t catch you sooner. OSD Seadoo sells them individually for $209 each complete.
That really sucks! I'm pretty sure that's not my problem anyway. I'm waiting till I can get to the lake and do a water test before updating. I'm going to try and look at up now. I could send them back. This is my third year of being down! The waters calling. I rechecked my rotary valve timing and the relief valves as advised. Timing apparently is good but fuel valves were in desperate need of cleaning. The pressure relief valve was stopped up! I've done several different things and I am fairly confident that the water test will go good. Only things going to be if it is I won't be sure what the problem was. I'm doing what everybody's suggesting step by step. I had that bite me in the rear in the past. Not this time!
 
If you can return them I would. I wouldn’t trust used carbs covered in overspray. Are you sure he rebuilt them correctly using only genuine Mikuni parts.
 
If you can return them I would. I wouldn’t trust used carbs covered in overspray. Are you sure he rebuilt them correctly using only genuine Mikuni parts.
I cracked the end's open. Shouldn't of have 2 but the way the outside looked what's your work look like on the inside. They were opened up and stuff changed. As far as Parts, it says quality gaskets used when needed. Their garbage! I trust my rebuild any day over this. I was just second-guessing myself with the problem I was having. You never know everybody makes a mistake. Here's the item number on eBay of exactly what I purchased 183841401013.
 
At that price it should be all new OEM soft parts, not just replaced as needed. If it was my money I would politely send them back and just buy new ones.
 
I'll have to verify positively from the guy that sent his carbs out but he told me off hand that he paid $170 for the rebuild of both carbs for a 1996 XP. I opened the carbs up to check the pop-off and just to take a peek. Everything was spot-on. For t$170 not bad at all. Kits with new needles and seats can run $130. I tell ya though... you gotta check everything and like Santa Claus.... check it twice. Good Luck. :)
 
Well finally got to enjoy it a little. It's starting Fair now. Still not a hundred percent happy with it but don't think it'll leave me.
Last things done
Fuel check valves cleaned
Rotary valve timing rechecked
Third set of carbs bolted-on
Coil replaced
Bad thing is I don't know which one made it better. Really been suspecting oil as the problem. The plugs were looking absolutely soaked and with oil. I had changed the oil and the counterbalance shaft when I had the engine out. 1 oz straight 30 weight as per my manual. Look like just stale mix fuel and gas came out of it. Also got the fuel mix 40:1 one as I normally run. Only time I really had a hard time starting is when I forgot to turn the fuel selector off. It set in the water bobbing for a few hours so...
Had come to a stop at one point and just turning the rear around. Back dipped in a wake and rolled that thing right over. That really freaked me out. It was still running with me right beside it connected to the lanyard. Pulled out the lanyard and rolled it over. Started back up and went on my way though. This is the first jet ski I ever owned or even drove for that matter. All my other Seadoo's have been boats. All in all not too bad I think I picked a good one. Things pretty stable and moves!!
 
Well this went good! New film in the gauge. Maybe now I can actually see what it does and know how much gas I got. Was even able to get the compression ring off and back on.
 

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How much of a pain in the butt was it?? Seems like a lot of work, pulling the gauges and all that.
 
How much of a pain in the butt was it?? Seems like a lot of work, pulling the gauges and all that.
I thought the same thing. I actually took the stuff with me to the lake and was going to do it there in the evening. I pulled the top housing with the gauges off and said forget it. Bolted it back on for the rest of the weekend. Ended up not being that bad. I would have actually done it there if I knew. Worst part was getting the ring off without cutting or damaging it. Instructions said to cut it and trash it. Would do it again in a heartbeat.
 
I'll take it off the ski and get my wife to do the repair. LOL It's on her ski. Ha ha. I don't like messing with the hoods... I'm short. :D :D
 
Well hopefully somebody will still take some time to read this. 4 days on the lake. Still having starting issues. Seems to me I'm having to choke that thing more than any of my other Seadoo's. Leaving the campground seems to start Fair but putting it in neutral and revving it to "clear it out". Get to the end of the no-wake to take off and hesitation for a second then it's good. Also note when I'm revving it in neutral to "clean it out" I have to pump the throttle. Once we're out there moving it's fine. I can even come to idle move around for a minute and it takes right back off. Three times we stopped at the islands and hung out for about an hour. All three times I honestly was getting really scared it wasn't going to start. Try putting it in neutral just like leaving the campground and pumping the throttle it would die. Eventually all three times it would pick up and then we were off. Have a stator assembly coming that I won on eBay for 99 cent. Someone had put that on the eBay section on here. Nobody bid on it. Got me on the shipping a little bit but 35 total. Looks really clean. Thinking about changing that but not sure if that's even possibly going to help. Only thing that I know I haven't gone through is the stator and the MPEM. Any other thoughts will be greatly appreciated. I built this for my wife and there's no way she will be able to get it running as it is. Also wondering if it's not in the engine, maybe crank seals?
 
When you checked the rotary valve did you check the clearance? I didn't go back and read the whole thread so don't shoot me if you did that already. LOL From you description of the continued problem I'd go for leaking carb needles Are you by any chance using an aftermarket in-line fuel filter? I had big trouble with my ski using one of those.
 
Well hopefully somebody will still take some time to read this. 4 days on the lake. Still having starting issues. Seems to me I'm having to choke that thing more than any of my other Seadoo's. Leaving the campground seems to start Fair but putting it in neutral and revving it to "clear it out". Get to the end of the no-wake to take off and hesitation for a second then it's good. Also note when I'm revving it in neutral to "clean it out" I have to pump the throttle. Once we're out there moving it's fine. I can even come to idle move around for a minute and it takes right back off. Three times we stopped at the islands and hung out for about an hour. All three times I honestly was getting really scared it wasn't going to start. Try putting it in neutral just like leaving the campground and pumping the throttle it would die. Eventually all three times it would pick up and then we were off. Have a stator assembly coming that I won on eBay for 99 cent. Someone had put that on the eBay section on here. Nobody bid on it. Got me on the shipping a little bit but 35 total. Looks really clean. Thinking about changing that but not sure if that's even possibly going to help. Only thing that I know I haven't gone through is the stator and the MPEM. Any other thoughts will be greatly appreciated. I built this for my wife and there's no way she will be able to get it running as it is. Also wondering if it's not in the engine, maybe crank seals?

Did you ever clip the spark plug wires back 1/4"? Do it on both ends just to be sure, you could be getting a poor connection, clipping will fix that.
 
When you checked the rotary valve did you check the clearance? I didn't go back and read the whole thread so don't shoot me if you did that already. LOL From you description of the continued problem I'd go for leaking carb needles Are you by any chance using an aftermarket in-line fuel filter? I had big trouble with my ski using one of those.
Rotary valve clearance has NOT been checked. The carbs currently on there were the rebuilt one's from eBay. To be honest I have no idea what's in them carbs. I've been sitting here reading through post for 3 hours trying to figure this out. Guess I need to pull the carbs for the 4th time. I'll check the rotary valve clearance and I'm probably going to buy "back to OEM" carb kits from OSD. I've been sitting here thinking it's still a problem with the fuel system. Also stock fuel filter.
 
Did you ever clip the spark plug wires back 1/4"? Do it on both ends just to be sure, you could be getting a poor connection, clipping will fix that.
I actually had to go pull the old coil out and look. I did not even see that I can clip the coil ends. One of the last things I did was replacing that coil. I did clip the plug ends but not coil. Pretty sure I found what was going on with the old coil. One of the wires at the coil was corroded all to crap. Replacing the coil was one of the last things I did too get It to start in the water at all.
 
I actually had to go pull the old coil out and look. I did not even see that I can clip the coil ends. One of the last things I did was replacing that coil. I did clip the plug ends but not coil. Pretty sure I found what was going on with the old coil. One of the wires at the coil was corroded all to crap. Replacing the coil was one of the last things I did too get It to start in the water at all.

Old or new coil? Depending if the coil ever got wet down the rear e box, clip those ends also. My connections at the coil were rusty looking and the solenoid was rusted stuck from a previous flood in the hull.
 
The old coil sitting in my garage is the one I just looked at. I just pull the wire from it and seen it was rusted bad. That box had definitely had water in it. I'm going to clip the coil end on the new one I've already installed. I just totally overlooked that they were removable at the coil. For some reason I was just assuming they were permanent like a lawn mower coil. Didn't notice it till you said something just now. This is what it looked like before.IMAG2735.jpg
 
You really need to get those carbs rebuilt and the OSD back to stock kits are the way to go. It sounds exactly like leaking needle and seats from your symptoms.
 
When you checked the rotary valve did you check the clearance? I didn't go back and read the whole thread so don't shoot me if you did that already. LOL From you description of the continued problem I'd go for leaking carb needles Are you by any chance using an aftermarket in-line fuel filter? I had big trouble with my ski using one of those.
Well definitely have some issues. For some reason the rotary valve is shredding the block and cover. Fragments of metal I guess that have been going through the engine. Hopefully my block side is still good.? Also is way out of spec. So where do I go at this point? Have the cover lip machined and maybe resurfaced? New rotary valve as well? Also why is it shredding the surfaces? I thought it was going to end up being too tight not loose.
 

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Well definitely have some issues. For some reason the rotary valve is shredding the block and cover. Fragments of metal I guess that have been going through the engine. Hopefully my block side is still good.? Also is way out of spec. So where do I go at this point? Have the cover lip machined and maybe resurfaced? New rotary valve as well? Also why is it shredding the surfaces? I thought it was going to end up being too tight not loose.

It'll read a little high doing the solder method because the cover will flex some when tightened down. Try very small pieces, do a valve in and a valve out test. I've had a couple covers machined, yes, oring groove and lip only. The last one I had done was too tight and really caused issues damaging stuff. In the end I bought a new valve and a good used cover to fix the issue and finally got my 96' GSX build to start. My experince is subtract .006 to .007 (inches) off the measurement with the valve in and .002 to .003 off with the valve out. A new RV should measure at .024.
 
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