97explorer717
Active Member
Do you think this is good?Sea Doo BRP 1998-2005 GTI GS GTX SPX GTS Rotary Valve Part# 420924502 OEM NEW | eBay
I can get a brand new one just shipping sucks. Do you know why it would be scoring like that being loose?
97 GTX coming back to life
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I can get a brand new one just shipping sucks. Do you know why it would be scoring like that being loose?
97explorer717
Active Member
I'm going to buy them kits. Actually found out about this from a couple of your other post. They made it convenient for sure. If you read above have definitely found another problem I believe.
GGuillot
Well-Known Member
I've bought my new RVs from bayareapowersports, I use the WSM one in both skis with good results. $25 or so shipped.
Moisture, then corrosion, then running it can score it up. Not uncommon to see a little wear in this area after 20 yrs. Hard to tell from pics on my phone, but look for a ridge worn on the cover, that's a tell tale sign.
I'm not fully covinced this RV area is causing your hot hard start issue. I'm thinking carbs, needles and seats, unknown rebuild kits, and an unverified pop off pressure and pressure test.
I trust no one but me to go through my carbs. I did 2 787 skis from the ground up, I've yet to experience run issues, but these carbs need oem kits and detail to get them right, pressure test, pop off and so forth is a step that can't be overlooked.
GGuillot
Well-Known Member
I think the early ones weren't comparable to OEM, I've bought 3 WSM ones in the last 18 months and they line up fine. Flipping them does yield a mid point of jumping another tooth.
97explorer717
Active Member
I had to go buy some feeler gauges. I have .016. Also that scoring wasn't there when I put the engine together originally and when I rechecked the timing. It got run a good bit over the last four days so I guess that's when that happened.
I believe you may have started viewing this forum later on. This is the third set of carbs I bolted on. First set was the original that I rebuilt and pop off pressure tested. Second set was off my running Challenger that's currently being rebuilt with bottom end issues. Third set was the eBay set that I'm not confident in to be honest. I am going to do the carbs again. I know it's acting like carb issues. Fuel system was completely gone through including all new lines, fuel selector replaced and check valves cleaned. Even removed the fuel tank to clean it.
noviceskier
Active Member
with all the trouble you spent with carbs, why not buy brand new ones from OSD if you can't seem to get it right
Thanks great to hear. About 6 years ago I called WSM and argued with the tech manager about theirs not being eccentric and he argued there was no possible way to make them that way and I was wrong. I told him somehow Seadoo found a way. Glad to hear they finally looked into it and figured out the Seadoo magic manufacturing techniques.
97explorer717
Active Member
If you read through all five pages you'll be informed about that. Yeah that's gotten ridiculous and impossible to get any help at this point. With the money I've spent yes I would have done that. Just ordered OSD "back to OEM" kits. This is my 5th Seadoo to completely go through including rebuilding the carbs. I've never ran into this problem. I ordered the eBay ones just in case I was making a mistake. Now it's just a pissing contest about where to buy rotary valve and I'm guessing nobody's looked at the one I found on eBay. The second set of carbs I bolted on were from my Challenger. It is currently being rebuilt by Fullbore. It ran fantastic with the cards I rebuilt on it. Ended up somebody had not correctly time the counterbalance shaft. When I tore into it ended up being shot anyway. Instead of saving 2 or $300 doing it myself I sent it off and will have a two year warranty.
97explorer717
Active Member
I am a OEM guy! If you get a second can you look at this? Sea Doo BRP 1998-2005 GTI GS GTX SPX GTS Rotary Valve Part# 420924502 OEM NEW | eBay
Has some marks on it that concerns me but I don't know. If it's crap where can I get a OEM One shipped quick? The guy I bought the engine from still has the rotary valve cover that came off of it. I'm going to purchase that as well.
97explorer717
Active Member
I really appreciate everyone's help!!!!!! I'm seriously about to the point of tarping it and pulling it in the backyard. Every Seadoo I've purchased I have had to gone through it like this one including CARBS! I've never had this problem. The rotary valve with the feeler gauge is at .016. It clearly states in the manual at this point and above you will have starting issues. I need the remedy this! Also why is it gouging up the surfaces in there? It's too loose. I could understand if it was too tight. Something's amiss in there.
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GGuillot
Well-Known Member
I think we did read your entire thread, I had read where you've swapped carbs several times. The part I never heard about when you did a 'rebuild' is whether you actually used a genuine OEM kit or not.
I looked at it, but you barked at the cost, I gave you an alternative for one a little cheaper made by WSM, I currently use them with good success. Go with the OEM if you have doubts...but the WSM is working for me on 2 skis.
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97explorer717
Active Member
I'm sorry but YOU have been there from way on. I got you mixed up with somebody that chime then within the last couple pages. Pretty smart that you know I keep avoiding the question about the OEM carb kits. Fine let's come clean. I used Winderosa. That's what I used from my first Seadoo till now. I only ever had a problem when somebody advertised it as that and it came in a generic package. As I made a mistake of not listening to you guys before I ordered OEM stuff now. OSD "back to stock" kit. Now with that being said..... I still have to go back to the carbs off the Challenger that I bolt it on. The Challenger ran excellent besides the fact somebody did not correctly time the counterbalance shaft. To elaborate some more it was vibrating the head pipe apart. Now I went and bought some feeler gauges and have .016 at The Rotary valve. The manual states you will have starting problems at that point and above. I have to remedy that as well. The carbs are getting rebuilt regardless. This is a problem as well though. I'm just trying to figure on how to go about the rotary valve. When it comes to numbers and specs that's where I get lost. I'm definitely not trying to offend anybody! I really value and appreciate everybody's help!! Is this good or garbage
Sea Doo BRP 1998-2005 GTI GS GTX SPX GTS Rotary Valve Part# 420924502 OEM NEW | eBay
GGuillot
Well-Known Member
You know coming clean earlier would have helped you save a lot time and money...
97explorer717
Active Member
OK I get that. Why did the same carbs run on the challenger but not on the GTX? Both 787 Motors. Only difference was I had to change the PTO high to half. I get it, it will never happen again. I rebuilt them carbs myself and they pressure tested and pop off. I don't want to avoid the fact this is the fifth set I've rebuilt and never had a problem until now. This is the reason I bought a "professional" rebuilt set off eBay. I make mistakes and can definitely admit it. What about the rotary valve? I'm really, seriously asking these questions informationally. Why is the rotary valve chewing up my case and cover? I don't understand it. I'm trying to avoid this in the future if I've made a mistake. Apparently I did something wrong somewhere. I pulled the rotary valve covered and installed new gaskets on the 5 Seadoos I've owned. Just have never run into this situation. Owned them for years and sold them running.
GGuillot
Well-Known Member
The only thing I can think of, and you've indicated it, it's rich and it 'clears out' that fuel may have been settling in the RV area causing the scoring you see, unspent fuel churning. It's the same thing I've seen when a performance car is running rich, it washes the oil film off and scuffs the bearings.
97explorer717
Active Member
Thank you! That makes sense. It acts like it's flooding out. Not acting like a lean condition. Just like everyone saying like maybe my carbs. Like the needles and seats are leaking. What about a warped rotary valve? Has that ever been a possibility? I can tell you the engine I pulled out had been run very hot! The paint was blistered on the head pipe and manifold. Never seen that before! The engine was a SBT. I would assume the rotary valve was that and the covered had been machined by them. Them components were bolted on my stock Seadoo engine. Maybe the rotary valve cover was machine for that block. I don't know.
97explorer717
Active Member
Parts on the way.
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97explorer717
Active Member
Everything's in already. Cover has marks running up and down. If I'm thinking correctly that's from the factory.? ALSO something I probably should have questioned a long time ago. I couldn't set the old cover to the block. The bolts had to seal it in there. It was really tight. Then once on I had to take a pry bar to get it back off. Not a lot of pressure but moderate. I didn't think I had to do that on any of the other ones. It's been years though so I couldn't remember for sure. Also the new one that came in still has the old base gaskets on it. They are really thick. The ones that came in the Mikuni kits are like what I normally get. Thinner base gaskets. As soon as I slap that yellow sticker on the back it's going to run perfect.
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97explorer717
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I can't speak for WSM one's but this is a lot closer than I could get the SBT. This is what I'm used to seeing. Wasn't thinking that I pulled the cover and valve from a SBT engine. I'm just assuming that's what would have been in it. This is the OEM one. I think this is the last time I'll have to fool with any of this.
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97explorer717
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Well like I said I can admit when I make a mistake. I was working on getting the gas gauge working. Appears that's good now. I pulled the pickup tube out the tank. Apparently it looks like I may have swapped the vent and return line hoses. Not sure that even really matters if they both just open into the top. The reserve and on were right.
97explorer717
Active Member
Well, well, well..... no change in starting with rotary valve and carbs rebuilt with the approved kit. Same old same old until I started bypassing stuff. First in Reading other forums I ran a line directly from the tank to the carbs. Bingo!! Put the fuel filter back in the system still good. Now let's reconnect the fuel selector. There we returned to the problem. Line's have been recheck three times and were correct there. That was a new OEM pretty sure I ordered from pro-caliber with my gaskets. Going to have to go back and look through receipts. I have no idea why a new one would be causing me them issues. BUT now I have a new issue. Both carb butterflies are sticking wide open when HOT. I use zip ties on the fuel lines this time. Actually the one with the little metal tabs I have them. Same brand and all recommended in the carb rebuild thread. Unhooked throttle cable, linkage and each individual carb was sticking. Neither zip tie or hose is touching the area for the throttle. I know to check this as I had done that one time with the clamp. That will throw you for a loop. Gaskets appear to be uniform around the edges from what I can see. Go out this morning when they're cool and not sticking. What am I missing now??
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