97' GS stalling.??

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ryanlkab

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After about 45 mins of riding it stalls at WOT and even at idle. But it fires right back up, then stalls when I give it throttle. Compression is 140/140psi, checked connections for corrosion and dielectric greased. Also cleaned sedement cup and filter. I called the dealership and they said it was most likely an electrical problem... But most of the posts on here say 99% of stalling problems are fuel related. If it was fuel related would it even run for 45 mins? Where should I go from here? Any suggestions?

Thanks! Ryan


Also, It doesn't seem like I am burning much oil(if any) I've used about 5-7 gallons of gas an the oil level hasn't seemed to move. Wouldnt the motor get extremely hot with no lube, because it doesn't.
 
Normally if you have fuel issues... it doesn't run at all... or it will have issues at the same place in the throttle range.

Yes... your problem seems more electronic in nature. When the CDI or coil get hot... sometimes they just shut down. There is no easy way to check it until you have the problem.

As far as your oil... with 7 gal of fuel, you would have only burnt a max of 22oz of oil. (less than a quart) That's also assuming full throttle for that entire 7 gal. If you were closer to 5 gal, and you were running half throttle or less... you may have only burnt 10oz. (not much) Since your tank holds about a gallon of oil, the level would have moved very little.

Also... no, the engine wouldn't get hot to the touch, since you are pumping lake water in it.
 
Thanks Dr Honda! :hurray: The dealership told me to buy a spark tester, and when it stalls, put the tester on and drive it till it stalls and check if I'm loosing spark... What would be the first thing to replace electrically, plug wires, coil, DESS post?? **I did notice that it will start to stall when I turn.**

As for the oil, I think I will mark the oil tank and pre-mix 5 gallons to see if I'm getting any injecton. Would a lean oil condition allow me to run for up to an hour before stalling, and keep starting and stalling?

Thanks for all your help!
Ryan
 
The '97 was a bad year as the new electricals came in to play. The front MPEM was
in a bad location as it got the terminals wet and the rear box would get bilge water in it and you have electrical havoc. I suggest you go over the wire harness for a broken wire, working to each connector along that harness, clean & dielectric grease each connector, fuse, and fuse holder. Pay special attencion to the amp
connector block pins for oxidation and use a #55 drill bit to both clean the females
and insure the barb inside each is snug. I have seen them enlargered by techs
putting probes in there that force the opening bigger. Hence, a problem like yours that you just want to bite nails in half. I have seen fuse holders that are corroded
and just one of the aforementioned are cause to break the electrical flow at a gravitational turn or vibration. Stalling can be from bad DESS. Bills86e
 
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