96 XP revival
- Thread starter Pwnage1337
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GGuillot
Well-Known Member
Seemed like more, but only two! Lol
GGuillot
Well-Known Member
Not neccessary to use fiberglass resin to fill unless its's structural, and you CAN use an epoxy based filler. I die grinded out some deep gouges, cracks and rivet holes and filled with Marine Tex. As long as you sand smooth and remove the waxy surface the gelcoat will adhere fine. Applying gelcoat too thick to fill holes can cause cracks to show up later. Imperfections in the surface can also cause pitting underneath when you sand later. Surface needs to be smooth and clean, wipe with acetone just before applying.
After making repairs with Marine Tex, prep smooth the entire area to be gelcoated with 100-150 grit. I used FGCI coatings, FGCI | Fiberglass Coatings. Gelcoat International I'm sure is good, but I found the cost, quality and support pretty good FGCI Coatings. Results were excellent on the final outcome also. I bought the brushable kits with the MEKP and rolled it on. Gallons w/MEKP catalyst run about $100 and quarts are about $45. They make it to order and ship promptly, you have about 4 months self life at room temperature when you get it, so only order when you are good and ready.
I should have been more specific, do not use epoxy laminating resin for repairs under gelcoat because when it cures it makes a waxy residue known as Amine Blush that polyester products like gelcoat don't like to stick to even when you clean and sand the Amine Blush off.
Epoxy products like Marine-Tex are perfectly fine.
Epoxy products like Marine-Tex are perfectly fine.
Pwnage1337
Active Member
My Solas X0 that I bought is a repitched Solas X.
The pitch was listed as 16.5/24 and I think a regular X0 is a 16.5/23.5. Will the 24 be hard to pull for my stock ski? I know it's not much different but just want to be safe
The pitch was listed as 16.5/24 and I think a regular X0 is a 16.5/23.5. Will the 24 be hard to pull for my stock ski? I know it's not much different but just want to be safe
Pwnage1337
Active Member
I tipped the ski on its side. I think I'm gonna try to polish the coating. Should I buy a DA sander, or is it recommended to sand the whole thing by hand?
Right now I will remove the decals.
I've read some things about having the ski tipped or flipped and wearing out the motor mounts. Is that a problem with these ski's or is it more a thing for the heavier 4 stroke engines?
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Major Woody
Active Member
Wow, the damage is everywhere.
If it were mine I would sand it down to get rid of some of the gouges, fill the rest, sand it again and then re-gelcoat the whole bottom except the very rear. Try to blend it at the corners. The pump tunnel would be a PITA.
You don't need a DA. They use a lot of air and can remove material very fast. I would just use an electric orbital.
Pwnage1337
Active Member
I have a sander that I can use.
Any recommendation for grits when you say sand it to get rid of the gouges?
Any recommendation for grits when you say sand it to get rid of the gouges?
Pwnage1337
Active Member
I don't need this thing to be super clean, i just want the bottom of it to be all the same color, without exposed fiberglass lol
Is "Canary Yellow" a close enough color? I'm guessing I'll need a gallon of it.
https://www.fgci.com/item/134288/Gelcoat-Exterior-Brushable-Yellow-Canary-FCIYG-245-B-Gallon/
Is "Canary Yellow" a close enough color? I'm guessing I'll need a gallon of it.
https://www.fgci.com/item/134288/Gelcoat-Exterior-Brushable-Yellow-Canary-FCIYG-245-B-Gallon/
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GGuillot
Well-Known Member
If you're going to roll it on you'll need the one as a kit with the catalyst MEKP. Canary Yellow Brushable Gelcoat Gallon Kit w/2 oz. MEKP. - 137981
You'll need a gallon, you won't get enough down with just a quart. Don't worry about sanding down to the fiberglass in areas to get it smooth, gelcoat will cover it fine. I used marine tex to fill anything that wouldn't sand out smooth. Die grind out first, fill, let it dry then sand it smooth, gelcoat will adhere and cover it fine.
My experience if you're going to roll it on, do a section (say left vs. right side) and a pint at a time, and go at least 3 coats. You've only got about 10 minutes to get it down after mixing in the MEKP. You'll need at least 3 coats because of all the sanding to get the pitting out later. My trial and error experience, put down enough or you'll start going through later, watch the corners and edges, don't be as aggressive.
When wet sanding buy yourself a ~$25 2" air sander from Harbor Freight, set at 50 psi and it'll run all day. After you're done applying gelcoat and ready to start the sanding, it's the initial wax removal by hand using 150 grit, that's the pain in the ass part. Once you're past that part it's easier, because the sand paper isn't gumming up all the time.
I like using 150 grit pads on my 2" sander when prepping, it's pretty aggressive for the most part and it's fine for the final prep before applying gelcoat. Wipe it down good with acetone just prior to applying gelcoat.
You'll need a gallon, you won't get enough down with just a quart. Don't worry about sanding down to the fiberglass in areas to get it smooth, gelcoat will cover it fine. I used marine tex to fill anything that wouldn't sand out smooth. Die grind out first, fill, let it dry then sand it smooth, gelcoat will adhere and cover it fine.
My experience if you're going to roll it on, do a section (say left vs. right side) and a pint at a time, and go at least 3 coats. You've only got about 10 minutes to get it down after mixing in the MEKP. You'll need at least 3 coats because of all the sanding to get the pitting out later. My trial and error experience, put down enough or you'll start going through later, watch the corners and edges, don't be as aggressive.
When wet sanding buy yourself a ~$25 2" air sander from Harbor Freight, set at 50 psi and it'll run all day. After you're done applying gelcoat and ready to start the sanding, it's the initial wax removal by hand using 150 grit, that's the pain in the ass part. Once you're past that part it's easier, because the sand paper isn't gumming up all the time.
I like using 150 grit pads on my 2" sander when prepping, it's pretty aggressive for the most part and it's fine for the final prep before applying gelcoat. Wipe it down good with acetone just prior to applying gelcoat.
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noviceskier
Active Member
Using some compressed air will clean out your clogged sand paper, just to save you some time from having to swap it out all the time, and some money.
Pwnage1337
Active Member
Thanks for all the input guys.
I bought a sander from HF yesterday. Now I need to find out if "Canary yellow" is a close match to the seadoo yellow
I bought a sander from HF yesterday. Now I need to find out if "Canary yellow" is a close match to the seadoo yellow
Pwnage1337
Active Member
http://www.gelcote.com/product/1996-sea-doo-sport-boats-super-yellow/
The gallon kit from these guys is about $50 more but I'm guessing would be a guaranteed match. I'd love to save $50, has anyone used the yellow from FGCI?
The gallon kit from these guys is about $50 more but I'm guessing would be a guaranteed match. I'd love to save $50, has anyone used the yellow from FGCI?
GGuillot
Well-Known Member
I used a wire brush to scrap it off, compressed air wouldn't budge it.
GGuillot
Well-Known Member
With the age of the gelcoat over 23 yrs, it probably won't match anyway. If you do the entire bottom no concern with matching.
Pwnage1337
Active Member
Good point lol
I'll give you a call later today if you have some time to talk just so I can get my order of operations right and get to pounding on this thing
Gonna be a lot of sanding......
I'll give you a call later today if you have some time to talk just so I can get my order of operations right and get to pounding on this thing
Gonna be a lot of sanding......
DUDE !!!! Glad you posted this. I bought this stuff in White for like $50.00 I said.... what they hell am I suppose to repair with this little bit of product??!! It's been sitting in the shop. Ha ha. So... I mix it? What gelcoat do I buy as a base for the color match. ?? Help a brotha out. LOL
NOTE - I don't like doing any type of body work or paint. I do it but hate it enough to never want to truly learn about it. I'd rather get beat with a yard rake (wooden end) than buy a can of gelcoat.
Major Woody
Active Member
I just ordered a quart of color matched gelcoat and a quart of high gloss additive which you mix together 50-50 for spraying. It should be here within a week. You might want to wait to see how my process goes. If it goes well, I'll sell you my leftover product.
Pwnage1337
Active Member
https://www.seadooforum.com/threads/hull-repair-on-my-96xp.63980/page-4
I REALLY like the way it looks with a black hull.... And black is cheaper... Lol
I REALLY like the way it looks with a black hull.... And black is cheaper... Lol
Pwnage1337
Active Member
I started sanding. I got the decal off and got most of it knocked down with 80 grit. I am debating taking the sponson off but I think that I should.
after identifying all the work it would take to switch the bottom of this thing to black I am just going to leave it yellow.
Also I think I will be buying from Gelcote international...i looked up "Canary Yellow" and it looks like a darker yellow than original. Dark enough that I think I would notice it and it would bother me.
I've been trying to find other companies that make a close to Seadoo Yellow, but they are all more expensive than Gelcote international. Fuckin Sucks I don't really wanna throw down 200 bucks for a gallon of Gel coat lol
after identifying all the work it would take to switch the bottom of this thing to black I am just going to leave it yellow.
Also I think I will be buying from Gelcote international...i looked up "Canary Yellow" and it looks like a darker yellow than original. Dark enough that I think I would notice it and it would bother me.
I've been trying to find other companies that make a close to Seadoo Yellow, but they are all more expensive than Gelcote international. Fuckin Sucks I don't really wanna throw down 200 bucks for a gallon of Gel coat lol
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GGuillot
Well-Known Member
I took them off, you'll need to if gelcoating, it'll be impossible to get around it later with sanding, polishing etc. Not too bad to reinstall later.
Yeah, the gelcoat isn't cheap, you'd be floored if got quotes from places to do this kind of work. There's a reason nobody wants to do it and if they do the cost is unreasonable.
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Pwnage1337
Active Member
I suppose it would probably be best if I took off the ride plate that I just siliconed my jet pump onto last weekend lol
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