96 XP revival

[GGuillot]

I hope he's right. Be way cooler to spend $50 than $200 lol

I'm gonna roll the dice on his knowledge and put parts of this thing back together. Gonna put the carbs and raves back on. Then hopefully when the DESS post shows up I'll hook it up and crank it over.

Is there any harm in running the engine without the pump attached? I don't want to put the pump back on just yet because I have to wait for the XO prop to show up.

Don't worry, he'll credit you on the DESS post if that's not it, I did the same thing, it was checking good and I bought one after speaking to him. In my case, swapping the DESS post didn't change anything, so I sent it back to him and pulled the trigger for a MPEM, about another $150 after the credit on the DESS post.

Test it first before going through all the trouble fishing it through the steering.

No harm with the jet pump out and running the engine, no drive shaft in either though when you do that.

 

[Pwnage1337]

Nick at westside is the man.

DESS Post came in already today, swapped the bitch out and the ski cranks right up!! Saved me money on the MPEM. Fuck yeah!

Now onto the next part...

I put my compression tester in and i got 125 on both cylinders. Seems like its probably a little worn out. How do you guys stop the jugs from filling with oil when you are doing compression tests? Clamp the line from the tank?

Think i'll be able to run it for at least a year?

 

[Major Woody]

Nick at westside is the man.

DESS Post came in already today, swapped the bitch out and the ski cranks right up!! Saved me money on the MPEM. Fuck yeah!

Now onto the next part...

I put my compression tester in and i got 125 on both cylinders. Seems like its probably a little worn out. How do you guys stop the jugs from filling with oil when you are doing compression tests? Clamp the line from the tank?

Think i'll be able to run it for at least a year?

They shouldn't fill with oil. During the short time you crack it to check the compression, you should get very little oil entering. Certainly not enough to cause any problems.

 

[mikidymac]

As said by Major Woody you should not be getting oil into the cylinders. If you are it is very likely your crank seals are shot.

 

[Pwnage1337]

Well that isn't good news.

One of the cylinders spews out oil when cranking with no plugs in it. They both do, but the PTO one is worse. the stand that I have the jet ski on is tilted towards the back so I would think most of the oil would puddle towards the rear cylinder (PTO)

The bottom end of this thing was flooded with oil. Is there any chance that I just need to purge all of the oil out of the bottom of it?

I shouldn't have used the word "filling" with oil. It's not like it's totally full, just spews a little out with each crank

 

[mikidymac]

So you poured oil into the engine, cylinders or carbs?
Or it fills up with oil when sitting on it's own?

If the engine go that much oil in it that it is pumping out without the plugs and nobody physically poured oil into it then your inner crank seals are shot.

 

[Pwnage1337]

I didn't pour any oil into it.

The jetski sat on a trailer for the better part of 4 years, with a piece of wood under the front of the trailer so the jet ski was tipped up in the front, so the rain water wouldn't fill the hull.

I have read that over time, the oil from the tank can seep past the crank seals and fill the crankcase with oil. I have read a few threads on it and it seems like people have installed a shutoff valve in the large oil line to prevent this when the ski is sitting for a long time. That, or they clamp the line when putting it in storage. Since mine sat for 4 years, there would be plenty of opportunity for it to fill with oil.

What I am saying is I think I have a bunch of residual oil that seeped past the crank seals since it sat so long. Now, on my home made ski stand, the ski is pitched a little bit with the nose higher than the rear, which would cause the PTO cylinder to have more oil since the oil would gravitate towards the rear cylinder.

I haven't "purged" all of the oil out of it, should i crank it a little at a time until it stops spitting oil out?

I read that in this thread:
https://www.seadooforum.com/threads/97-gsx-787-crankcase-full-of-oil.64540/
I understand that it isn't 'right' that oil got past the crank seals, but my question is can I run it, knowing that if it sits for a while, the bottom end may fill with oil?

 

[Pwnage1337]

After reading a bunch of threads, I am convinced that I can crank it over a little at a time until it stops spewing oil out.

Then I can put in a ball valve on the oil line to the rotary gear and shut it off when its put away so it doesn't flood the case again.

I will put the key to the Ski inside the engine, hang it on the valve so that I don't forget to turn it on before riding.

 

[Matt Braley]

Most clear up and are OK. Don't go hacking in there with a ball valve unless your forced to. Run the correct oil and it will probably be fine.

 

[mikidymac]

The valve is only a temporary fix. I have skis that sat for years with no oil leaking.

The position of the ski also won’t matter as the oil tank is still higher than the crank.

If it was mine I would try to get it running with some fuel down the carbs. Getting it started is the only real way to get the oil out.

You can’t test compression until the oil is out.

Once you get the oil ran out then check it daily to see how fast it fills back up. If it’s bad then your only fix is a remanufactured crank. Some people have had the leak stop by running the correct oil if it sat with the wrong TCW-3 blue oil.

 

[Pwnage1337]

What is the "correct oil" for my 96?

 

[vogs77]

Seadoo synthetic oil, it is red

 

[Pwnage1337]

I will try to find some. Can I run amsoil interceptor? That's what I run in my Mach Z. Seems like there are some people running it

 

[Matt Braley]

I will try to find some. Can I run amsoil interceptor? That's what I run in my Mach Z. Seems like there are some people running it

Yes it's a good and appropriate oil but Interceptor is thin and I don't see it swelling crank seals back up. Like Miki said the real test is to run it and then see if the leak comes back at all. If it does then at what rate? Many rv engines do this and it's not a problem just a little extra smoke when you fire it up after sitting.

 

[Pwnage1337]

Screw it, I'll run the XPS oil then. Amazon has it for $47 a gallon.

I want to say thanks to everyone who is chiming in on my thread. I'm excited to get this thing in the water and jump some waves!!

 

[Pwnage1337]

I ran all the oil out of the PTO cylinder. Didn't take that much cranking, probably cycled it 10 different times over the course of an hour and it cleared right up. The back cylinder came in at 125psi just like the front one, so at least they match. Its obviously a little on the weak side, but oh well I'm gonna run it.

I was able to get the carbs back on tonight, replaced the small oil lines running to the little ports in front of the rotary valve, replaced the oil filter. Not that far off from starting it up!

I want to flip the ski over and address the gel coat and paint on the bottom of the hull before I fill it with gas and oil...but I'm really tempted to start it. I at least want to verify that the engine will run a little bit before spending a ton of time on the hull.

 

[mikidymac]

Just put some premix down the carbs. This will verify it runs.

 

[Pwnage1337]

I'm gonna give that a try!

If it pops off I'm going to flip it over and start working on the bottom. I'll post some pics up.

It's pretty beat up underneath. Gelcoat and paint is worn right off at the bottom of the hull.

 

[Major Woody]

I'm gonna give that a try!

If it pops off I'm going to flip it over and start working on the bottom. I'll post some pics up.

It's pretty beat up underneath. Gelcoat and paint is worn right off at the bottom of the hull.

The bottom of the hull is painted? Best to get that off of there. Impossible to maintain. Fix the gelcoat and then know you can pull it up on a sand beach and not worry.

 

[Pwnage1337]

I mean I can see fiberglass. I think it's just colored gelcoat worn off.

I dumped a little bit of premix in each cylinder and the ski ran for like half a second and gave a puff of smoke out the back. So I know I have spark, and I think it'll run.

Here's a picture of the fiberglass. It's pretty worn

 

[Pwnage1337]

Little bit better picture. She's pretty rough

 

[mikidymac]

That's pretty normal for these skis. It won't hurt anything but looks bad if you crawl under it.

 

[Pwnage1337]

Recommended repair is to re-gelcoat it with colored gelcoat is my guess?

Is there a preferred vendor/material/method to doing it? I would like to touch it up since I have it in the garage. I'll have one of my friends help flip it over

 

[Major Woody]

Recommended repair is to re-gelcoat it with colored gelcoat is my guess?

Is there a preferred vendor/material/method to doing it? I would like to touch it up since I have it in the garage. I'll have one of my friends help flip it over

You are in the same boat as me, though yours is much worse.
Gelcoat can be custom mixed to closely match. You can try to tint it yourself or buy it ready tinted. You can order it directly from Gelcoat International if you want, or you can order it from FibreGlast.com as I intend to. In order to spray it, you need a cheap gun with a 2.4-ish tip and a quart of Duratec High-Gloss additive, plus a little tube of MEK-P catalyst. The gouges are pretty deep so if I were you I would roll on several coats of straight gelcoat or fiberglass resin and then sand it smooth to get rid of all the damage. DON'T fill anything with epoxy or autobody filler; gelcoat will not adhere to it. Just use a random orbital sander and 150 grit, smooth out what you have as best you can, add some resin or gelcoat, sand that smooth, and then spray many coats of tinted gelcoat. It will go on like paint. That can be color sanded if you wish.

 

[Pwnage1337]

Is it something that can be hand applied instead of sprayed? I have very limited experience with a spray gun in my hand.

It's just the bottom of the hull, it doesn't need to be gorgeous but I would like it to look like it hasn't been driven through a gravel pit. It seems like applying it by hand would allow thicker coats to be put on at once instead of spraying 10 really thin coats, which I am sure gives a better appearance