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RESTO 95 SPX resto

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Salt turds can be a bear, depending. I've had my fair share of beating those mercruiser casings apart to know it can be no walk through candyland park.

Heat from a torch and automatic transmission fluid to penetrate and loosen (also mixing ATF with acetone 50% or so helps to break loc-tite loose and thin the transmission fluid for penetration) are your friends.
 
this damn thing is gonna be the death of me. Bent my trailer trying to ratchet it off this time after snapping a 2 x 4. Put the nozzle back on tight and am gonna try the slow methodical rubber mallet beating with constant pressure.....see you guys in a few hours...
 
Got her free after some 'persuasion'. Now the question is how do I remove the drive shaft bearing....
 

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Got the new thru hull fitting installed, waiting for it to set before I remove the excess epoxy. Such a productive day
 

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Agreed! Got her running just now! Finally drained the tanks and put in the new fuel lines. She cranked Right up, but idled high after revving her up
 
Nice power day. Work the choke to keep the revving down. If the mechanical idle screw with the spring on it does not lower the idle then it is usually adjustment of the throttle cable.

For those little cracks and whatnot I've been having great luck with MarineTex. It's pretty easy to use and the grey will match the inside of the hull pretty good. It's not as legit of fix as Midymac's proper glass solution of coarse.
 
funny thing about the choke.....damn cable is down to it's last thread, and the adjustment screw on it that attaches itself to the flame arrestor is broken in half. yippee

Started her up again and she died after a little throttle. Guess I need to fiddle with the carb adjustments like you suggested. I'm gaining momentum on trying to get this one done, my head is filled with that HX I'm picking up in 2 weeks.
 
hit a snag....it's acting like it's not getting oil. I drained the lines to get the good stuff pumping in instead of the TCW3 he had in there, and when I started it up, it revved high after a little throttle (I poured some pre-mix in the carbs and plugs as precaution), but didn't look like it was drawing in oil from the line. When I took off the carbs, I checked the pump and it looked good...also cleaned the filter.

Oil light is on and all. Suggestions?
 
Did you remove the bleed screw to get the air out of the lines? also to prime it fast hold the oil lever open further then just the regular idle setting to get the oil flowing quicker. Or you could use premix until the pump primes it- self for extra caution. Almost everyone here agrees the pump is super reliable. Also did you replace the oil filter?
I couldnt get oil flowing into my pump until I figured out that I needed to bleed it and hold lever open, while running it on some premix is what I was told.
 
I bled it until oil was pouring out, and the throttle lever works great on the oil pump. Oil filter is good.

Oil light still comes on and now won't turn over, just makes that weird vibrating sound

I would run it on some premix but now she doesn't wanna turn over. Hope I didn't break something... lol
 
Im pretty sure you already tried tried turning the flywheel by hand right? Oil light means nothing, just telling you that your oil level in tank is low, or its faulty doesnt tell you if oil pump workning or not. Vibrating sound, I dont know much about this symtom but it could be a stuck starter bendix, also you should try jumping the solenoid but from what you say a vibration, it doesnt sound like a solenoid issue. As long as you have a good battery It sounds like its not engaging the flywheel. I would first look over the connections in the ebox for corrosion and check the starter ground wire and power wires for damage and tight etc then remove starter and look at the bendix, Im sure someone else will have more insight into this.
 
Remove the spark plugs and see if you can turn it by hand. Could be hydrolocked if you got too crazy with oil maybe? And yep, consider running pre-mix at this point since oil injection might not be working for whatever reason. Squirt a few oz's of oil into the carbs if in doubt, 40:1 or so premix, for the time being.

Salt eats copper battery cables from the inside out.
 
She turns over by hand no problem. It's weird bc she was cranking with one press of starter earlier. I'll check out the electrical
 
Sometimes the bendix inside the stator housing can get stuck, or maybe your starter needs rebuild (OEM starters are the best ones, so rebuild if it's original), starter rebuild kits including new bearings and brushes are available.

Aftermarket starters often aren't very good, could be yours was replaced?
 
I don't think it's the starter. It seemed strong as hell up until this afternoon. I've had a weak starter before that was going out, and this didn't seem anywhere close to that.

This bendix theory might be something though...hard to fix? seems like it would be unless there is some secret squirrel stuff that I don't know about
 
i'm not even getting juice to the solenoid it seems. battery is juiced up 100%. guess i'll have to dig around and find a meter and start checking wires
 
Whelp figured out the electrical issue.... terminals needed a scrub.

Quick question.... anybody know how to drain the air out of this line? Got it out of all the other lines but this one

119.jpg
 
That is the return line for the rv bath. Its supposed to have that space of no oil in it like that



96 XP800!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!
 
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