'95 SPI (587) carb removal

[Normallysailing]

I finally got my rebuild kit yesterday, so it's time to tackle this thing. First, can someone set me right on just removing the damn thing? The manual says to pull the rotary valve cover (that's the big round one, right?), but it looks like I should just be able to unbolt the little right-angle intake manifold (that sits between the carb and the cover) from the cover.

 

[Normallysailing]

Oh, I get it now... that oil (injection?) business is built into the manifold/rotary valve assembly too, and taking that apart would be worse.

These things are miserable to work on, though my real complaint is about where Mikuni put their mounting holes - right under the throttle shaft. So I guess I can't blame it all on Bombardier.

 

[Seadoo Tuner]

I just remove the airbox assembly, throttle and choke cables, fuel and pulse lines and then the two carb bolts and thats it, have had mine off and on a few times.

 

[Normallysailing]

You kidding? With the carb+rotary valve cover off I could still barely get a wrench onto that forward nut.

 

[Normallysailing]

Another thing: Seems pretty obvious that nobody's worked on this carb since it left the factory - all the bolts still have the original paint on them. So that means that those two little oil lines (also with factory paint) cracked and broke while I was pulling the assembly. What should I use to replace them, and can the clamps be reused?

 

[mikidymac]

3/32" Tygon hose from any mower shop and high quality zipties for the oil lines.

 

[Normallysailing]

Great - thanks very much.

Oh - one other thing. I followed your carb rebuilding thread, and am curious what size ball-end Allen driver you use to push in those little rubber plugs.

 

[POPPS]

Are you referring to the check valve plugs?

 

[Normallysailing]

Yes.

 

[tobytd]

Carb rebuild sticky …post 82

 

[Seadoo Tuner]

You kidding? With the carb+rotary valve cover off I could still barely get a wrench onto that forward nut.

Not kidding, its tight but I just use a smaller open ended wrench. On the side with the linkage that's in the way its more difficult but having the wrench on a downward angle gives me enough room to remove. I have read where some use a slightly bent open ended wrench on the linkage side but I didn't need that.

 

[Normallysailing]

Carb rebuild sticky …post 82

That is so not helpful - pointing out the size that fails.

I was asking @mikidymac what size works for him.

 

[Normallysailing]

Not kidding, its tight but I just use a smaller open ended wrench. On the side with the linkage that's in the way its more difficult but having the wrench on a downward angle gives me enough room to remove. I have read where some use a slightly bent open ended wrench on the linkage side but I didn't need that.

Okay, I can maybe buy it if we're talking about fabbing customs tools. I think pulling the carb+cover per the official instructions was probably a blessing in disguise, though. If I hadn't been wrestling the wrench down there I wouldn't have discovered how brittle and in need of replacement those two little oil lines were.

 

[mikidymac]

I honestly don't remember but I can check when I get home.

 

[Normallysailing]

I honestly don't remember but I can check when I get home.

Cool, thanks.

 

[mikidymac]

A lot of people use a loop of dental floss to pull them through also, although I have never tried that.

 

[Normallysailing]

Interesting suggestion, will try with the next one(s - duals on the '95 GTX...).

Now that I'm getting to the adjustments, since I'm a lazy bastard I hacked up a popoff test with a radiator pressure tester I had handy and it came in right at 21psi - bottom of the prescribed range. Spring is new and needle wet, so I assume that's okay despite your noting that you like the upper end of the range (in this case 37).

On the low and high speed adjustments: Do I understand correctly that the seadoosource.com chart you referred to indicates how far to back out each screw from fully seated (i.e. screwed in)?

[edit] Oh, brother's got a Panduit wire tie gun, from the looks of it. I'm liking you more the further I get into this.

 

[mikidymac]

Yes, adjustments are out from all the way in and seated.

 

[Normallysailing]

Then this looks done. Now to cut a gasket (Captain Clueless here forgot to order it with the kit and the local dealer doesn't have one) and get 'er reassembled.

A couple of minor notes on the "experience", since the rebuild thread is closed:

I don't bother much these days with carb cleaners unless I have a big old car one to dunk. The "smaller engine" stuff I've been working on lately, from chainsaws, weedeaters, snowblowers, lawnmowers, motorbikes, etc., clean up beautifully in the ultrasonic with nothing nastier than a squirt of Dawn. Even that little fuel filter (which was totally crudded up) came out spotless (though I used the new one anyway, of course).

And I was going to put wire ties on the little oil lines but decided to try to reuse the original clamps as an experiment, just 'cause I have the Oetiker clamp pliers (I think I got them years ago for working on my slurpee machine...). Seem to work fine.

But thanks very much for the rebuild thread - incredibly helpful.