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94XP FIRST major service!

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94seadoox_p

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To all the people who have posted the excellent maintenance how-to's - THANK YOU!! There is so much good information here to any newbee.

**I have made good use of the search button**

I have a 94 xp, that I've owned since new and ridden hard on Lake Huron (Oscoda) for 6 years and has been on inland fresh water in MI since. It has been completely submerged through waves and been 8 feet out of the water on rough Huron days. I love my seadoo :thumbsup:

Other than plugs, batteries and a minor fuel leak, EVERYTHING is original. I finally was having some hesitation/cavitation issues this past summer, although minor, I figure I owe her an overhaul after 17 years of duty!

I have 25 ft. of fuel hose and worm clamps. I will be taking the fuel selector switch apart as well as removing the carbeurators and rebuilding them based on the threads in here. New fuel filter as well. - QUESTION ONE - will the $25-30 ebay kits (per carb) suffice?

I have an OE wear ring on order along with a pump to hull gasket. I have the thoughts of doing a skattrack 15/20 swirl impeller while things are apart. I will be using Amsoil synthetic grease on the zirk fitting under the PTO cover as well as filling the impeller cone.
QUESTION TWO - Should I consider getting a pump rebuild kit (bearings, seals, etc.) and if so, is ebay a good option again? (im cheap lol) Also, any better impeller suggestions based on a relatively calm, large inland lake (i.e. top speed :drool5:)?

The ski has ran very well through the years, although the VTS finally stuck this year and the gas gauge hasn't worked in 2 yrs. I will be looking into these things over this coming winter, with information gained here and on Greenhulk.

Any input would be greatly appreciated...thanks guys!
 
Hi and Welcome to the SeaDoo Forum:

Wow, you got a lot of questions, you probably should list your questions separately, I'll try to answer what I can.

Question 1: I'm assuming you are asking about carb. kits, buying them off EBay is O.K. but be sure they are genuine Mukini kits, there are other sources, Riva Motor Sports, is a sponsor of the site is one, and there are others. If you want additional suppliers PM me.
Instead of clamps I use a good quality cable tie, Panduit brand, I think they work better and are a lot easier.

Question 2: Rebuilding the pump, if you have been doing regular maintenance, changing the gear oil regularly, unless you have dirt and water in the lube you shouldn't need to rebuild the pump, if you do rebuild the pump Dr Honda has a set of tools a lot cheaper and better than for sale elsewhere. Use GL5 synthetic gear lube in the pump, I personally use Mobile 1, 75w90 LS1 synthetic lube, but any GL5 rated is fine.

The fuel gauge is a relatively simple fix, probably just needs a newer style molded float.

I personally have not worked on a VTS system, the one on my 96XP doesn't work, I just leave it set in about the middle position, if you want to fix yours there are threads on this forum.

I know I've glossed over a lot of your questions, there's a lot of good information on this forum, if you can't find the answers just ask.

Lou
 
Welcome to the forum. I'm in Royal Oak/Birmingham/Clawson quite a bit.

So far you are doing the right things but as Lou said get OEM Mikuni kits.

good luck
 
a little carburator tip for screws -- if this is the first time carbs been apart, screws are reluctant to turn, drivers dont grip real good, tech tip ----- have been doin for years - dip screwdriver in valve lapping compound (thats probably in your toolbox) this in turn grips screw head
(try and u will be surprised ) - shhhhhhh dont tell sdb
 
Mikuni it is. Carbs have never been apart. I like the idea with the screws Griz. PB blaster and some gentle hammer taps with a driver in the screw was going to be my method to the madness. Thank god its never seen salt water.

Question 2: Rebuilding the pump, if you have been doing regular maintenance, changing the gear oil regularly, unless you have dirt and water in the lube you shouldn't need to rebuild the pump, if you do rebuild the pump Dr Honda has a set of tools a lot cheaper and better than for sale elsewhere. Use GL5 synthetic gear lube in the pump, I personally use Mobile 1, 75w90 LS1 synthetic lube, but any GL5 rated is fine.
Click to expand...
The pump/intake grate/nozzle...nothing has been apart. Ever. I'm shocked reading everyones info and problems they've seen over the yrs...

-Am I foolish to not rebuild the driveline? At a lumpy idle, due to the carbs finally needing help, i get a pretty good rattle from the pump area in or out of the water.
-If i'm doing a wear ring & possible impeller change, should I consider rebuilding the pump? Once I have it apart, what type of shaft play, if any, is tolerable and what isn't? (kinda like a turbocharger...little up and down is ok, in and and out isnt)
 
The screws wont be that bad...I never need a impact unless theres corrosion in there and you wont have any.

Yup only Genuine Mikuni kits...and make sure to order Needles and seats too. Its another $40, but well worth it.

Make sure to change the oil injection lines with 3/32" tygon primer line and change the filter.

Make sure your pipe is tight and hasnt broke any bolts.

On to the pump....pull it out and dump the oil. You should be changing that oil every year...or every few years if you are confident it was sealed correctly.

If the pump has ever been full of water then the bearings may need replacing. As long as no water has gotten in, they are usually fine. I have pulled pumps from 92s that prob were NEVER changed...and no water. The bearings were just fine.

You will however need a OEM Oring for the cone and anarobic gasket maker (looks like red loctite; right next to loctite at the store) when you put it back together. I perfer Amsoil Marine gear lube for the oil.

A prop will be an AWESOME upgrade...well worth the $$. Between that and the new OEM wear ring you will chit bricks when you get it on the water.

I would also recommend a intake grate if you ride rough waters often. My lake is rough 100% of the time. They will scrub a mph or two, but make up for it 10 fold in "traction".

I appreciate seeing people so dedicated to a machine and willing to invest in keeping it on the water. Even if the motor lets loose sometime soon, all the other stuff will be taken care of so it will only take a motor and you'll be back in biz for 17 more!

(not to Jinx it...but it sounds like you have lots of hours on it...)
 
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Minnetonka4me said:
The screws wont be that bad...I never need a impact unless theres corrosion in there and you wont have any.

Yup only Genuine Mikuni kits...and make sure to order Needles and seats too. Its another $40, but well worth it.

Make sure to change the oil injection lines with 3/32" tygon primer line and change the filter.

Make sure your pipe is tight and hasnt broke any bolts.

On to the pump....pull it out and dump the oil. You should be changing that oil every year...or every few years if you are confident it was sealed correctly.

If the pump has ever been full of water then the bearings may need replacing. As long as no water has gotten in, they are usually fine. I have pulled pumps from 92s that prob were NEVER changed...and no water. The bearings were just fine.

You will however need a OEM Oring for the cone and anarobic gasket maker (looks like red loctite; right next to loctite at the store) when you put it back together. I perfer Amsoil Marine gear lube for the oil.

A prop will be an AWESOME upgrade...well worth the $$. Between that and the new OEM wear ring you will chit bricks when you get it on the water.

I would also recommend a intake grate if you ride rough waters often. My lake is rough 100% of the time. They will scrub a mph or two, but make up for it 10 fold in "traction".

I appreciate seeing people so dedicated to a machine and willing to invest in keeping it on the water. Even if the motor lets loose sometime soon, all the other stuff will be taken care of so it will only take a motor and you'll be back in biz for 17 more!

(not to Jinx it...but it sounds like you have lots of hours on it...)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info Minnetonka... I owe it to this thing to finally crack stuff open. It doesn't owe me a dime.

**Assuming there's no water in the pump, the bearings should otherwise be fine as long as there's no play?**

Also, there was oil starting to leak into the hull from what I'm assuming is the injection line (near the bottom of the carb assembly?) - Is a powersports dealer the best place to get the line and filter you mentioned?

I also think i'm going to chit myself w/ a new ring and impeller :o
 
The injection line is typically instock at a good hardware store...they use it for weedwhip fuel line. I buy my stuff from Denniskirk.com but thats b/c I live about 1.5hrs away and it gets to me in 24hrs.

The pump has back and forth play normally. If you have the long plastic cone you can add a spring and a pusher to keep pressure against that play. I think yours has the stubby cone though.
 
3/32" is pretty damn small! I havent paid attention to it. Hardware store it is.

Is there any need to adjust high and low speed screws if...
(1) They have NEVER been touched in the 17 yrs I've had to boat.

(2) If I have the carbs apart due to rebuilding them, does that in itself necessitate adjustments to be made?

I will be going up to the boat this weekend to remove the pump and carb assemblies and bring them back down to the house to take the time to go thru them. I will post pics when that goes down!:thumbsup:
 
griz400 said:
a little carburator tip for screws -- if this is the first time carbs been apart, screws are reluctant to turn, drivers dont grip real good, tech tip ----- have been doin for years - dip screwdriver in valve lapping compound (thats probably in your toolbox) this in turn grips screw head
(try and u will be surprised ) - shhhhhhh dont tell sdb
Click to expand...

Actually that is a trick I learned while taking a small engine repair class....years ago. Somewhat rebuilt my Polaris TX340 sled back then. (teacher had same sled so that helped)
 
Yeah thanks Grizz for that tip...Ill have to try it!

I have about 5 different sets of screwdrivers, and have set aside the ones that fit the screws absolutely perfect. I rarely have any screws that give me trouble anymore.

I have also ground down some flatheads to fit the jets just right too.

As far as the settings...I usually make a mark on the paint to line the screw up after cleaning the carbs. Then I reference the stock settings and usually go right in between where they were and the stock settings.

You definitely want to take them out though to clean...and replace the Orings (included in the mikuni kit.)
 
I will be buying a skat-trak 15/20 impeller to install in the pump once it is removed. Will any impeller removal tool work or does it have to be skat-trak specific?
 
It has to be one for the 2 stroke seadoos/kawis

Also take note that the Genuine Mikuni kits are slightly hard to find these days. They are out there, but the main source (WPS) doesnt have any. The plant in Japan was destroyed in the tsunami.

Its the smaller shops that bought them up when the news hit.
 
I'll have to figure out how to post pics, but here's an UPDATE!!!

After using ratchet straps hooked up to my workbench and wood behind the wheels on the trailer, the pump FINALLY came out. After taking the nozzle cone off, I feared there was no oil in it at all. It took 20 minutes for any oil to come, out. Once it did, it was jet black.

With the cone off, the impeller has almost 1/4" of in and out play. Is that normal? There is no up and down movement, although i can slide a business card between the wear ring (which is scarred) and the impeller. I can assume thats a bit out of spec. lol

I also found both oil injection lines leaking at the intake manifold or rotary valve cover? (not sure what its called)
there is some significan scaring on the backside of that cover that comes in contact to the rotary valve. Just enough to snag a fingernail on, but its there...Normal??

Again, this is a 17yr old boat that has never been gone through..
 
Normal on the prop shaft play. Sounds like you never changed the pump oil...lol Wouldnt be bad to change out the bearings, but I have found the bearings are usually ok unless water had gotten in.

The RV cover having scratches is pretty normal for a engine with that many hours. as long as there are no sharp edges you should be fine.


You can "go advanced" when posting to attach pix, or, the better way is to use a file sharing service. After you upload it gives you a sharing tab; use the "forum embed code"
 
I put one of those kits on my 96GTI, it doesn't do much if anything, I really couldn't tell. Why don't you just send me the $20.00 instead, I'll go to the track and put it to good use.

Lou
 
I can't tell that it even reduced the rattle, maybe temporarily, anyway the best way I have found to reduce the rattle is increase the idle speed to about 1600-1700rpm.

Lou
 
FWIW, I just got all my rotary cover/carb gaskets, wear ring, genuine mikuni carb kits, etc from Atlantic Jet Sports...I know the regulars on this site know these guys, but it was my first dealing with ordering seadoo parts....what a breeze! Helpful, knowledgeable & good prices.

I will order again in a heartbeat if I need to. Just a heads up for the new guys like me

I've been busy moving, but pics to come soon of pump being rebuilt:thumbsup:
 
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