96xp vts gauge is wrong

[Minton33]

I just picked up and got running a 96 xp for 600$. Hadn’t been licensed since 2016. As the title states my vts gauge is wrong. It goes up and down with the trim but at all the way up, on the gauge it shows just barely more than all the way down. With trim down, on the gauge it’s way below down. Would be awesome if anyone had any ideas what to look for there.

Side note. The fuel gauge doesn’t work, but I know what to look for there. I Assume from past experiences the speedo doesn’t work iether but haven’t took it out yet

It appears someone put a new sbt engine in it before letting it sit for 10 years. 160 on one cylinder and 170 on the other. It’s spraying water out underneath the manifold as well as from one of the exhaust plugs. hoping it’s the manifold gasket and I don’t have to pull the cylinder.

I’ve done the carbs, removed all old fuel and oil, replaced oil lines, new starter+solenoid, new wear ring, new carbon seal, new vts boot, and prolly more I’m not thinking of. It already had fuel lines replaced. Someone let me know if they can think of anything else I should check.

Very excited to ride it after all I’ve heard about them.

 

[etemplet]

Been a while since I messed with one but did you perform the adjustment procedure?

 

[hingstin]

here is the "mechanical calibration, but that should not change anything for the meter because there is an internal limit up and down in the VTS box, from where the "values" come, And what I understand, that is NOT adjustable.
If I remember it right this small "pin" slides in an "slot"in the housing, and then the Resistance ( ohms) is changing
But look if something is corroded, because if readings is always "low" then your resistance is to low.

Measure and compare to this "table". if You have for example a reading of 140 ohm in upper, you can test to add an resistor at 20ohms in serial ( cut the wire and resistor in there, and test what could be the best to "re calibrate" so you hav eYour gauge in the postition)

But start wit all connectors in VTS and Gauge and all other connectors there in between, for bad connection.
Can also be inside Gauge, som bad connection, so open it if it do not help with the external connections, and as a last step test with to addd an resistor.


here is also a pic of the mechanical calibration

 

[hingstin]

For the Speedo, it is for 99% the sensor that is not working..
here is a really good thread how to rebuild the speed sensor.
it is in this same 2-stroke discussions

SeaDoo Speedometer sensor fix instructions​

But test it first.. put multimeter in DC voltage, measure cables to sensor, one probe to Minus to other to plus.
when you rotate the paddlewheel at sensor it should fluctate fourth and back, from 5,5VDC to something between 8-10Volt.. ( when the magnets ( paddles) on wheel go past housing) depending on Your battery status

 

[Minton33]

here is the "mechanical calibration, but that should not change anything for the meter because there is an internal limit up and down in the VTS box, from where the "values" come, And what I understand, that is NOT adjustable.
If I remember it right this small "pin" slides in an "slot"in the housing, and then the Resistance ( ohms) is changing
But look if something is corroded, because if readings is always "low" then your resistance is to low.

Measure and compare to this "table". if You have for example a reading of 140 ohm in upper, you can test to add an resistor at 20ohms in serial ( cut the wire and resistor in there, and test what could be the best to "re calibrate" so you hav eYour gauge in the postition)

But start wit all connectors in VTS and Gauge and all other connectors there in between, for bad connection.
Can also be inside Gauge, som bad connection, so open it if it do not help with the external connections, and as a last step test with to addd an resistor.

View attachment 68309View attachment 68306
here is also a pic of the mechanical calibration
View attachment 68310

Good info. I had not thought of adding a resistor if nothing else works. I will check the ohms out this afternoon. I would think any bad connections would add ohms instead of taking them away so I am suspecting a problem with the sensor or gauge

 

[Minton33]

For the Speedo, it is for 99% the sensor that is not working..
here is a really good thread how to rebuild the speed sensor.
it is in this same 2-stroke discussions

SeaDoo Speedometer sensor fix instructions​

But test it first.. put multimeter in DC voltage, measure cables to sensor, one probe to Minus to other to plus.
when you rotate the paddlewheel at sensor it should fluctate fourth and back, from 5,5VDC to something between 8-10Volt.. ( when the magnets ( paddles) on wheel go past housing) depending on Your battery status

I was not aware you could rebuild them. If I can get it to work I’ll have to do the same on my boat.

 

[hingstin]

Yes, look at the guide it is an hallsensor and a zenerdiode. so it is very Easy, do you also hav ewater temp there is an "thermo resistor" also added
parts for a couple of $.
and Yes as You said when coroded it Adds Resistance, but how knows how it can behave if it kind of shortens or something

In the pic below, It is this shaft that is coming out in the AFT, ant there is a little screw on it that goes along a "resistor/magneto" inside the Housing, and that changes the resistance/signal to gauge ( but that is totally closed wit h somekind of Epoxy, i think it is impossibke to open that without braking something).
But open up all Mech. stuff and clean, and check that this screw are in right place, and thats part are OK ( somebody can gave opened and Modded before)
then You also can move this by hand, and see how it will "impact" on Your readings and Gauge.