You mean for the exhaust manifold where the head pipe bolts on to right?
I assume the 951 carbs are the same size?
What about the raves?
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787 Block-off kit for pressure testing
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You mean for the exhaust manifold where the head pipe bolts on to right?
I assume the 951 carbs are the same size?
What about the raves?
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Unfortuately the carbs are bigger, and the raves are a little different. I could always just install raves, but its prob better to have block offs.
As I said I have jet cut rubber gaskets to use for leakdown testing...if you want me to send them all to you so you can scan them let me know.
I know theres a couple guys here that would like some 951s...but they are ALL different from the rest.
As I said I have jet cut rubber gaskets to use for leakdown testing...if you want me to send them all to you so you can scan them let me know.
I know theres a couple guys here that would like some 951s...but they are ALL different from the rest.
What ever you do make I will buy also. I wish I had Minne's rubber seals though, still need a good solution on that one.
Racer should be able to make that happen I would think. Just cut it in the waterjet after a set of covers.
If you guys know EXACTLY what material you used for the rubber gaskets I'll check with the WJ guy. I made a real nice set for myself and they leaked and I chased my ass on it, not worth it in my opinion. To be honest the true way to pressure test the engine is with the exhaust manifold on, so you already need the EM gasket. Your supposed to check the cooling circuit for leaks and that is done by pressurizing through the brass fitting for the tell tale line. So when I have built my engines I only reuse the carb gaskets that I bought years ago and they are the thick ones for the jet boats. On the flange for the head pipe what I do is use and OEM gasket and put a thin coat of threebond 1211 on it. When your done the threebond barely sticks to the gasket and you can just about rub it of with your fingers. If you use the aftermarket wire mesh gaskets they will stick like glue to the manifold and to the block off plate but tend to weep air between them where the mesh is. I have found the OEM gaskets to work the best, pricey but worth every penny. So your into the thick gaskets for $24 and if your building an new engine your already going to have the other gaskets. You can use the new RAVE gaskets or I bought a set years ago and have been reusing them too.That is just my 2 cents. Let me know. Also, the big plate I have on my cylinders instead of the exhaust manifold was only made for me to bead blast my completed engine, never for pressure testing.
That makes sense. The ones I have are 1/8" think rubber. They were from Randy at Watcon and he definitely used them.
I think you are prob right though...gaskets prob would work better.
I think you are prob right though...gaskets prob would work better.
O.K. guys the drawings are FINALLY finished. Now what I need is a count on who wants them and EXACTLY who wants what. Since everyone wanted this or that I tried to keep it simple. So if you want soup to nuts you'll have plates to range from a 720, 787 and 951. Some of the plates share between two engines.
Here's what I have:
To do a 720 You'll need the exhaust manifold plate and two carb plates for the Rotary valve cover.
To do a 787 You'll need the exhaust manifold plate, 2 carb plates for the R/V cover and two RAVE plates
To do a 951 you'll need the exhaust manifold plate, 2 carb plates for the reed cage adapters and two RAVE plates.
Now, if you want to do a 787 AND a 951 you need the exhaust manifold plate (I laid it out to do BOTH 787's AND 951's), Carb plates for both and RAVE plates for both.
Now if you want to do 720's and 787's all you need it the 787 kit AND the 720 exhaust manifold plate since the carb plates are the same between the two engines.
And obviously you can also buy everything to do all three. Possibly some of these will also fit a 657, not sure never owned one perhaps that can be confirmed.
Now for the extras:
Say you wanted to bead blast a complete engine, leave the PTO on, Leave the MAG housing and cover on I have a block off plate for where the starter goes. I also have a plate to bolt on the cylinders to block them if you want to bead blast your engine WITHOUT you exhaust manifold on. THIS IS NOT FOR THE WEAK AT HEART--YOU NEED TO KNOW WHAT THE FRIG YOUR DOING!!!!! Sorry to be blunt but I don't want some chinstrap coming to me and saying I ruined your engine, I'm gonna tell you to pound sand! Same goes for the carbs--are we clear?
Or if you want to bead blast your carbs like I did you'll need 1 carb plate for the arrestor side of the carb and re-use one of the carb plates for the R/V cover--I DO NOT have this plate for the 951's.
I know some have asked about pressure testing with the exhaust manifold off and just use the cylinder plate--I guess you could but you'd need to drill and tap the plate in two places, one in the exhaust port and one in the water jacket. It is preferred to pressure test with the manifold on, the plate will have one hole to pressurize the exhaust ports and you pressurize through the water fitting on the manifold(tell tale line). The only reasons I suggest this way is the factory does it this way for one and two, I used an aftermarket gasket one time and the thing leaked like a sieve from between the gasket material.
You are responsible for acquiring the rest of the apparatus to pressurize the engine. I will GLADLY tell you what I use.
If someone can tell me how to post a PDF I'll gladly post up the drawings--dimensionless that is. Now that I have more plates I want to have the water jet re-quote the parts so I need to tell him how many of each plate I need. So I figure if we can all come together on this as soon as possible on who wants what the faster I can get the prices re-quoted. The higher my quantity the lower the cost USUALLY is. Who knows it might just stay the same. This is more then likely going to be a one shot deal.
As far as payment goes I do take Paypal and I will ship them via USPS or UPS or Fed-Ex which ever is cheapest. You'll pay what ever I'm charged, no hidden handling charges etc.. I don't believe in that. It's not much time out of my day to pack it up and get it to the post office, no matter which direction I go I'm only a short drive to the post office. If you have your own UPS or Fed-Ex account that's fine with me I can hit a Fed-Ex drop box or drop it at the UPS store(I'm there almost daily any way for work).
Please lets ask all questions here unless it's money questions you can PM me. Or if you'd rather talk to me one on one you can PM me and I'll give you a shout.
If I'm missing anything PLEASE let me know.
Here's what I have:
To do a 720 You'll need the exhaust manifold plate and two carb plates for the Rotary valve cover.
To do a 787 You'll need the exhaust manifold plate, 2 carb plates for the R/V cover and two RAVE plates
To do a 951 you'll need the exhaust manifold plate, 2 carb plates for the reed cage adapters and two RAVE plates.
Now, if you want to do a 787 AND a 951 you need the exhaust manifold plate (I laid it out to do BOTH 787's AND 951's), Carb plates for both and RAVE plates for both.
Now if you want to do 720's and 787's all you need it the 787 kit AND the 720 exhaust manifold plate since the carb plates are the same between the two engines.
And obviously you can also buy everything to do all three. Possibly some of these will also fit a 657, not sure never owned one perhaps that can be confirmed.
Now for the extras:
Say you wanted to bead blast a complete engine, leave the PTO on, Leave the MAG housing and cover on I have a block off plate for where the starter goes. I also have a plate to bolt on the cylinders to block them if you want to bead blast your engine WITHOUT you exhaust manifold on. THIS IS NOT FOR THE WEAK AT HEART--YOU NEED TO KNOW WHAT THE FRIG YOUR DOING!!!!! Sorry to be blunt but I don't want some chinstrap coming to me and saying I ruined your engine, I'm gonna tell you to pound sand! Same goes for the carbs--are we clear?
Or if you want to bead blast your carbs like I did you'll need 1 carb plate for the arrestor side of the carb and re-use one of the carb plates for the R/V cover--I DO NOT have this plate for the 951's.
I know some have asked about pressure testing with the exhaust manifold off and just use the cylinder plate--I guess you could but you'd need to drill and tap the plate in two places, one in the exhaust port and one in the water jacket. It is preferred to pressure test with the manifold on, the plate will have one hole to pressurize the exhaust ports and you pressurize through the water fitting on the manifold(tell tale line). The only reasons I suggest this way is the factory does it this way for one and two, I used an aftermarket gasket one time and the thing leaked like a sieve from between the gasket material.
You are responsible for acquiring the rest of the apparatus to pressurize the engine. I will GLADLY tell you what I use.
If someone can tell me how to post a PDF I'll gladly post up the drawings--dimensionless that is. Now that I have more plates I want to have the water jet re-quote the parts so I need to tell him how many of each plate I need. So I figure if we can all come together on this as soon as possible on who wants what the faster I can get the prices re-quoted. The higher my quantity the lower the cost USUALLY is. Who knows it might just stay the same. This is more then likely going to be a one shot deal.
As far as payment goes I do take Paypal and I will ship them via USPS or UPS or Fed-Ex which ever is cheapest. You'll pay what ever I'm charged, no hidden handling charges etc.. I don't believe in that. It's not much time out of my day to pack it up and get it to the post office, no matter which direction I go I'm only a short drive to the post office. If you have your own UPS or Fed-Ex account that's fine with me I can hit a Fed-Ex drop box or drop it at the UPS store(I'm there almost daily any way for work).
Please lets ask all questions here unless it's money questions you can PM me. Or if you'd rather talk to me one on one you can PM me and I'll give you a shout.
If I'm missing anything PLEASE let me know.
Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
I would like the 787 kit with the extra plate to be able to bead blast the carbs.
I want the 787 and 720 stuff for sure minus the carb plates. I prefer my 951 just run perfectly forever though so I should be good there
. Well on second thought you better get me a price on all three
. Well on second thought you better get me a price on all three
I will take all three as well...the 580s and 657s use a smaller carb base. I could send you a gasket on that and then we would have them for all motors.
Is the exhaust for the 580-657 the same too, if so get the carb gasket in the mail to me and I'll hold off until I get it. I'd rather the COMPLETE gamut. PM me if you need my addy again Nick.
It looks like a very well made kit and you have obviously gone to a lot of trouble and a lot of time but I think you are over thinking this. I don't want to come off as a jerk or insult anybody but thought I would share my opinion...
I have been working on skis since the 90's and have leak tested every engine I have had apart. The easiest way to do this is to make a solid gasket from rubber like 1/8" thick neoprene sheets available at the hardware store or even a thick motorcycle innertube works. Use an old gasket for a template and cut out the outside shape and bolt holes. Make one for the carb base and one where the head-pipe connects to the exhaust manifold. On a 787 Seadoo you only need 2 carb base rubber block-offs and one between the head-pipe and exhaust manifold. You will use the head pipe to clamp the rubber block off and the carbs to clamp the carb block off to the engine. Make a tee out of brass parts at the hardware store and a low psi gauge from harbor freight. One side of the tee has a 1/4" barbed fitting for a hose connected to the pulse line fitting on the engine, one port for the gauge and the other port for a tire schrader valve to allow air into the system. You can use a compressor carefully or a bike pump to add 8 psi of pressure to the system. It should hold for 10 minutes. If you have an engine leak use soapy water to find the leak and if you have a cooling system leak it will show as a bubble from the water fittings. I would not block off the rave valves because they will hold 8 psi as well and show any leaks the bellows might have.
Group K used to sell the exact kit that I have been making for years but I am not sure if they do any more. Every time I get a new style engine I make block-offs I have ones for about every engine now. Total cost is under $30 for everything and a sheet of neoprene is only about 8 bucks. I can post pictures if anybody would like.
Again I am not trying to be an ass but the aluminum plates are nice but not necessary. If this gets too much heat I will remove it.
I have been working on skis since the 90's and have leak tested every engine I have had apart. The easiest way to do this is to make a solid gasket from rubber like 1/8" thick neoprene sheets available at the hardware store or even a thick motorcycle innertube works. Use an old gasket for a template and cut out the outside shape and bolt holes. Make one for the carb base and one where the head-pipe connects to the exhaust manifold. On a 787 Seadoo you only need 2 carb base rubber block-offs and one between the head-pipe and exhaust manifold. You will use the head pipe to clamp the rubber block off and the carbs to clamp the carb block off to the engine. Make a tee out of brass parts at the hardware store and a low psi gauge from harbor freight. One side of the tee has a 1/4" barbed fitting for a hose connected to the pulse line fitting on the engine, one port for the gauge and the other port for a tire schrader valve to allow air into the system. You can use a compressor carefully or a bike pump to add 8 psi of pressure to the system. It should hold for 10 minutes. If you have an engine leak use soapy water to find the leak and if you have a cooling system leak it will show as a bubble from the water fittings. I would not block off the rave valves because they will hold 8 psi as well and show any leaks the bellows might have.
Group K used to sell the exact kit that I have been making for years but I am not sure if they do any more. Every time I get a new style engine I make block-offs I have ones for about every engine now. Total cost is under $30 for everything and a sheet of neoprene is only about 8 bucks. I can post pictures if anybody would like.
Again I am not trying to be an ass but the aluminum plates are nice but not necessary. If this gets too much heat I will remove it.
CReynoldsMIZ
Well-Known Member
That is what he is doing. Except his parts are probably very high quality and not everyone is great at making those parts.
No worries Mikidy, if you ask 10 guys you'll get 10 different ways. My kit is based off the OEM kit as found in the Seadoo service manual for my 99 Speedster. The manual lays it out straight forward set by step and gives you a troubleshooting bubble chart. This is great for the first time user. We use all sorts of rubber at my father in laws machine shop and I made some really nice looking gaskets--failure city. That is why I only do it with the OEM gaskets. I have seen leaks come from the exhaust manifold so I also like to test with that on, then paint the entire engine AFTER pressure testing. Thanks for the kind words on the aluminum plates, but mine are hacked compared to what I'll be making. Mine were saw cut on the band saw and dressed on a belt sander. The new ones I laid out are going to be all water jet cut, I think I'm even going to buck up for a new sexy set.
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ocod
Well-Known Member
Hey Racer,
A little off topic but if I send you this piece is it easy to get your machine to reproduce it
This one a little different. Has the extra piece going around bar VS flat one above
Its to cover hole left in steering pad if you switch to UMI switches VS the plastic OEM housings.
A little off topic but if I send you this piece is it easy to get your machine to reproduce it
This one a little different. Has the extra piece going around bar VS flat one above
Its to cover hole left in steering pad if you switch to UMI switches VS the plastic OEM housings.
Alright guys, I really want to get a total on what EXACTLY you guys will be interested in as I need to get it re-quoted since I added some more parts. I already know Tonka is in for everyone. If you need help determining what you want/need feel free to PM me and if you want to talk, PM me you phone# and I'll call you back. I'd like to try and have this figured out.
THIS IS BALLPARK PRICING until I get it re-quoted
951 Carb plate (2 required) $13.75 ea
Starter plate (1 req for blasting) $13.75
Carb plate Arrestor side (1 req for blasting) $13.75
580 R/V cab plates (2 req) $12.50 ea
787 Carb Plates (2 req) $13.75 ea
787 Rave Block Off (2 req) $11.25 ea
787/951 Head pipe plate (1 req) $15.00
Now for the really unknown
787 Cylinder plate--Needs to be quoted
951 RAVE plates-- Needs to be quoted
720 Head pipe plate--Needs to be quoted but should be around $15
This does not include shipping. I have these priced as what I call favor pricing, I'm not making anything off them, just a few bucks for the Paypal fees. I'm not doing this as a money maker but more along the lines to HELP the hobby so keep that in mind. I scratch your back you scratch mine type of deal, good Karma or whatever you want to call it. I know money is tight if not I could charge double. Again this is probably going to be a RUN and DONE deal so if your thinking about the 951 stuff you better get having individual pieces is a fortune. I have attached a pic so you can see the parts. Enjoy!
THIS IS BALLPARK PRICING until I get it re-quoted
951 Carb plate (2 required) $13.75 ea
Starter plate (1 req for blasting) $13.75
Carb plate Arrestor side (1 req for blasting) $13.75
580 R/V cab plates (2 req) $12.50 ea
787 Carb Plates (2 req) $13.75 ea
787 Rave Block Off (2 req) $11.25 ea
787/951 Head pipe plate (1 req) $15.00
Now for the really unknown
787 Cylinder plate--Needs to be quoted
951 RAVE plates-- Needs to be quoted
720 Head pipe plate--Needs to be quoted but should be around $15
This does not include shipping. I have these priced as what I call favor pricing, I'm not making anything off them, just a few bucks for the Paypal fees. I'm not doing this as a money maker but more along the lines to HELP the hobby so keep that in mind. I scratch your back you scratch mine type of deal, good Karma or whatever you want to call it. I know money is tight if not I could charge double. Again this is probably going to be a RUN and DONE deal so if your thinking about the 951 stuff you better get having individual pieces is a fortune. I have attached a pic so you can see the parts. Enjoy!
I'd need to check the dealer for the gaskets and I could reverse engineer the plates from that. Get me the years of the 1000 SDI's so I can take a look at the fiche first. Sorry, I'm a vintage Moto-Ski/Ski-Doo guy. But yeah, get me some more info, just PM me and I'll get you my email so we can work it out that way.
BMANN06
Well-Known Member
The 2stroke 1000 sdi was out for 2005-2007 model years. When checking the fiche the models Mach Z 1000, MXZ 1000, Summit 1000 would have this engine. I'll toss out the idea to some skidoo guys and see the interest. It would be sick to be able to easily mount these plates on and doo leaktest/pressue test with the block still in ski. Will pm email address.
Cheers!
b
Im in for a complete set, blasting plates, and we should all throw in an extra $10 to stock the beer fridge!! :cheers:
Thanks Tonka! Hey here's yet another one--do you need a cap for the 580 carb if you want to blast those carbs or are you good without that one? I'll have to get to my pops and measure the top of the carb on my SP if you want that. Just when you think you have everything nailed down!
Ok, so it looks like I just would need the diameter of the EFI where it mounts to the reed boot. So you can pressure test with the reed boots on. Then you'd need to take the Y pipe off and block the exhaust ports separately.
Are the electric RAVE actuators sealed units?
Im OK w/o blasting plates for the 580 carbs.
On the one above, some nice plugs is all you need for those reed boots.
On the one above, some nice plugs is all you need for those reed boots.
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