s10gmconversion
New Member
I have parts for that ski if you end up needing anything
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RESTO 657x motor 95 SPX
- Thread starter LKGrider
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Thanks. Not sure what I will need yet but will keep you in mind. I did find a few things out this evening. I believe the crank seal is leaking. Oil tank empty and oil blowing out cyl. But i think that is what may have saved this motor in a way. Or at least bough it some time. I scoped the cyl and from what I could tell the walls looked good. Compression was above 150. VTS works! It fired once I sprayed starting fluid. (By starting fluid I mean my spray bottle with premix). And even buffed a little on the nose. May be some hope for this ski yet!
Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
There is hope for all of them, it is just how much time and money you want to sink. Looks like mainly surface dirt, a powerwash does wonders lol.
Yeah I have seen power washers do wonders. Hope it will peel off a lot of the old stickers as well. A little chilly this week here to be power washing. Plus I want to make sure the ski is going to be worthy. Since I got it fired last night and comp was good and even I'm going to start on the basics when I get some time, fuel lines, tank drain and cleanings, oil filter, carb rebuilds.. Then once she runs well on her own I will move on to the rest of the restore. I will have to pull the pump to replace the wear ring. The driveshaft bearing is free. Is it recommended to replace the drive shaft through hull bearing? It was sitting for 6+ years. Hate to get on the water and it seize and rip that boot to shreds and start sinking lol.
s10gmconversion
New Member
It sure does do wonders. They can all be brought back to life
s10gmconversion
New Member
Just inspect it and if the needle bearings are intact just give it a good clean and grease.
Strizzo
Well-Known Member
the seals may not be gone, any ski that sits for that long is likely to have had the oil tank drain into the motor. clear it, refill the oil tank and see if she holds. my 657x gtx doesn't fill up over the winter but it does seem to pull oil through the seals at idle, i get a lot of smoke at idle and hardly any at higher rpms as is normal.
That is good news to hear. This ski is def having more and more potential! What is the best way to clean out the bilge? Only thing I can think of is soak it with mean green then tilt it up and spray it out.
Strizzo
Well-Known Member
a few folks will put the drain plugs in and fill the hull up part way with a soap and water mix, then drive it around on the trailer a bit to agitate everything, then drain it all out. that might just be with the motor out so be careful not to fill it so high you flood the motor.
doomann88
New Member
A buddy of mine bought a re-painted “95 xp” mystery ski with this setup I believe, it’s a 95 2 seater with no hole through the back for the exhaust, it is routed in through the pump area, however it has what looks like either a 657x or 717 looking engine in there but with the 657 pipe, Its all one piece with a rubber coupler holding the lower cone on. I’m enlisted to do the fuel lines/carbs/magic wand waving to get it going for this season so I’m interested to see how it goes…
This is the only pic of it i have at the moment.
This is the only pic of it i have at the moment.
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It's likely a 93-94 xp if the exhaust goes sideways. If it came straight out the back it would be a 95.
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Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
Made some progress tonight. Removed the carbs, replaced the fuel lines and fuel selector switch, removed fuel sending unit and pumped the tank dry (damn that gas smelled funky!) I did check and the fuel gauge actually works! And replaced oil injection hoses. I think I got lucky with the ski sitting for so long. Just about all the oil had seeped from the tank into the motor. The carbs had a lot of oil in them which actually preserved them. They looked fairly clean with out a lot of rust inside. A lot better than I was expecting. Filters were half clogged. Hope to get some more done this week.
96spxpos
Well-Known Member
So what ever became of this motor? I know you said the compression was in the 150's, but was that the PO telling you that, or did you do a compression test on both cylinders yourself? You said oil seeped into the motor.. I think I remember people saying that oil affects the compression reading...I'm not sure if adding increases PSI because there is less air space, or if it decreases, but im pretty sure it gives you a higher reading than normal..
So have you done a compression test yet without the seeped oil?
I just get so curious and love when people pick skis up and don't know if the motor internals are good or not...its like my own personal lottery, guessing what a forum members psi is on their newly acquired seadoos that need work/restos...
Im sure some of you can relate to this sickness.
Let me know what the readings are..:thumbsup:
So have you done a compression test yet without the seeped oil?
I just get so curious and love when people pick skis up and don't know if the motor internals are good or not...its like my own personal lottery, guessing what a forum members psi is on their newly acquired seadoos that need work/restos...
Im sure some of you can relate to this sickness.
Let me know what the readings are..:thumbsup:
Strizzo
Well-Known Member
having oil, or even fuel from not turning off the fuel selector, will give you higher than normal compression readings. oil and fuel, being liquids, are incompressible, therefore they take up more space in the chamber when testing compression.
from my own testing, testing compression with the fuel switch off, testing three times gets the same reading within 1lb of each other. with the fuel on, each successive test would show 1-2lbs higher than the last, up to about 5-6lbs over the first test.
Just hope it stays once she fires and runs for a few min and burns off any residual. I will def check compression again and post.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Mineral or synthetic are fine, any API-TC low ash rated oil will be adequate if you're using the injection system. I dunno if you can still get the mineral even but that's probably what I'd use b/c it's a little less expensive but if you've got any RAVE motors in your stable using just one type might be for you.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Also, if you don't trust the injection system just yet, you can mix some oil in the fuel tank until you can confirm the injection is working. Say for instance, 4oz of oil in each gallon is 32:1 so in 3 gallons you mix 12oz of oil then once you find the injection is working you can fill the remainder of the fuel tank with unmixed fuel and have ~64:1, which is a much lighter ratio.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Why do you guys power-wash that dirt patina off, I think it adds a certain ghetto look.
Got around to rebuilding the carbs last night. Was setting pop off pressure. Searched on the Internet and found people saying to put in 1.5 or 2.0 needle/seats and set pop off at 32-40psi. 1.2 came out of the carbs. The SeaDoo manual says set pop off at 16-21psi. Doesn't say what needle and seat to use. Also read a thread somewhere and a guy said he bought the ski new, and had 1.2 in it and his pop off before was mid 20's. Everyone told him to go 2.0 and set pop off at 37. Should I follow the SeaDoo manual or the net?
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