2013 GTI 155 IBR module problem

[av8ferg]

Hey, newbee here. I’ve been searching the web and forum to get help as I don’t know much about these PWCs. I bought a used SeaDoo GTI 155 last year (65 hrs total). It’s had a few problems, first had to replace a knock sensor and this year I’m having IBR module malfunctions. It was an intermittent problem originally. I would get a loud “beep” an engine icon and a message saying “IBR Module Error”. When i found the maint code it was a C2102. The Ski would go into limp mode and limited my RPM and speed. The last failure It always was dumping the nose downward and I was unable to control the VTS. Sometimes I would turn it off and back on and it would work normally but eventually it kept coming back. Last outing it was stuck and I crawled back at 4 mph. I took it to a SeaDoo repair shop in my area. I called them today to get an update and they’re still assessing the problem. They said the tech believes it’s a bad IBR motor and said the parts are backordered until the end of Aug and they’re around $1,500 just for the IBR motor. They also said that if didn‘t care about not having reverse they could disable the mechanism and I could use the jet ski for the rest of the summer.
1. So does this make sense to the folks on here that are more experienced than I?
2. Can I have my IBR repaired Vs replaced?
3. Is there a way to confirm the finding and not just throw parts at the problem. I’ve worked in aviation maintenance for a long time and this is an expensive way to troubleshoot. I always told my aircraft mechanics they have to confirm the problem and not guess because aircraft parts are outrageously expensive.
Thanks in advance,

 

[ski-d00]

1. That style ibr does fail frequently and the diagnosis makes sense. Are they a seadoo dealer? You can't really just turn off the ibr and have everything work perfectly. Any seadoo dealer would not do this due to liability reasons. It can be done but you really have to know what you are doing and have the proper software.
2. There are few people repairing these ibr units but typically ends up costing around $500. List price on new is $1300 but can easily be bought for less than a $1000 online and they are on backorder for at least a month. The unit will have to be married to the ECU so it requires BUDS or similar software.
3. There are a few checks that can be done to verify that it is not a connection problem but most likely the ibr unit is the problem. The ibr unit consists of the module and a motor. The motor can easily be tested and does fail on occasion but more often it is the pc board on the module with the issue. The motor can easily be replaced and others have sourced some aftermarket motors that work fine.

 

[av8ferg]

1. That style ibr does fail frequently and the diagnosis makes sense. Are they a seadoo dealer? You can't really just turn off the ibr and have everything work perfectly. Any seadoo dealer would not do this due to liability reasons. It can be done but you really have to know what you are doing and have the proper software.
2. There are few people repairing these ibr units but typically ends up costing around $500. List price on new is $1300 but can easily be bought for less than a $1000 online and they are on backorder for at least a month. The unit will have to be married to the ECU so it requires BUDS or similar software.
3. There are a few checks that can be done to verify that it is not a connection problem but most likely the ibr unit is the problem. The ibr unit consists of the module and a motor. The motor can easily be tested and does fail on occasion but more often it is the pc board on the module with the issue. The motor can easily be replaced and others have sourced some aftermarket motors that work fine.

Thank you for the information. Yes, they are a SeaDoo dealer. I’ll mention your comments to the service department rep when I speak to him. If the IBR module is blown then I guess I’m out of luck until they can get a replacement module.
Is it worth repairing the module or just take it on the chin and buy a new one. I’m guessing new is probably the way to go. Seems like everything in my life is on “backorder”, it’s really get old.
Thank again.

 

[POPPS]

There are threads on here,,a couple on YouTube…where the motor can be replaced on Amazon for $25.00… if in fact it is the motor,,pull the volts from the battery,,,then you will know if it’s the motor or the module.

 

[pretex]

I have a 2013 GTX 215 and it uses a similar IBR Module. A couple of things:
The version you have is not the same that has a $25 dc motor, that is in the newer skis. The module is around the price they quoted you.
If you have to change the IBR, if you do it yourself, you will still have to take it to someone with the BUDS Software tool to marry the IBR to the ski or it won't work.
I had this problem on my ski and I suggest the following (this is what I found on mine and didn't have to change any parts) but yours might be a different problem. I would do the following first:
Check and make sure your IBR mechanism isn't binding anywhere - obstructed or bad bushings in the IBR bucket/mechanism.
Download a schematic - it will be useful for you to follow how the circuit works. I checked the IBR Actuator switch on the handle bars, the connector under the steering mechanism, the connectors on the ECU, the buss bar jumpers and fuses in the fuse block for corrosion, the input power going to the IBR motor (they are towards the top) and the signal connectors for corrosion (towards the bottom of the actuator).
What I found on mine within the IBR Circuit and it fixed the problem, corroded connection on the harness under the steering mechanism, corroded pins on the ECU connector located on top of the engine, corroded pins on the signal harness on the bottom of the actuator. I cleaned all the fuses and buss bars to make sure I was getting good signal, voltage, and ground connections. Haven't had a problem since.