2006 Seadoo GTI SE

[lmarkie74]

My 2006 GTI SE is "Stuttering" when I get to about 4,000 to 5,000 RPM's and backfiring through the exhaust. Sounds exactly like the REV Limiter on my Harley-Davidson when I get over a set RPM. Anyone have this experience?

Here are my codes from Candoo Pro. Any suggestions on what I should start with?

P1520
◦ Status:Occurred
◦ Source:ECU
◦ Description:Critical Low Oil Level Detected or No oil pressure detected
◦ Solution:Note: Consult the service manual for details
•
P0562
◦ Status:Occurred
◦ Source:ECU
◦ Description:Battery voltage too low
Solution:On SeaDoo i-Control this will happen if the voltage is less than 6.5V and the
engine speed is less than 1280 RPM or if the voltage is less than 11.8v and the RPM is
greater than 1280 RPM.
◦
•
P0616
◦ Status:Occurred
◦ Source:ECU
◦ Description:Starter relay Short To ground Or open circuit
◦ Solution:Note: Consult the service manual for details
•
P1544
◦ Status:Occurred
◦ Source:ECU
◦ Description:Exhaust Temp too high or Pipe Preheat Switch (Functional Problem)
◦ Solution:Note: Consult the service manual for details
•
P0231
◦ Status:Occurred
◦ Source:ECU
◦ Description:Fuel pump shorted to ground or open circuit
◦ Solution:Note: Consult the service manual for details
•
P0339
◦ Status:Occurred
◦ Source:ECU
◦ Description:Crank signal fault not plausible with cam signal (Crank Signal Intermittent)
◦ Solution:Note: Consult the service manual for details
•
P0500
◦ Status:Occurred
◦ Source:MPEM
◦ Description:Vehicle Speed signal fault
◦ Solution:Note: Consult the service manual for details

P1511
◦ Status:Occurred
◦ Source:MPEM
◦ Description:LAKE TEMPerature circuit high voltage
◦ Solution:Note: Consult the service manual for details
•
P1509
◦ Status:Occurred
◦ Source:MPEM
◦ Description:LAKE TEMPerature circuit out of range (N/A on iS models
◦ Solution:Note: Consult the service manual for details
•
P1681
◦ Status:Active
◦ Source:MPEM
◦ Description:Communication problem - instrument cluster message missing
◦ Solution:Note: Consult the service manual for details
•
P0463
◦ Status:Occurred
◦ Source:MPEM
◦ Description:FUEL LEVEL sensor circuit shorted to 12V or open circuit
◦ Solution:Note: Consult the service manual for details
•
P0461
◦ Status:Occurred
◦ Source:MPEM
◦ Description:FUEL LEVEL sensor circuit out of range
◦ Solution:Note: Consult the service manual for details
•
P1680
◦ Status:Occurred
◦ Source:MPEM
◦ Description:Communication problem detected by MPEM
Solution:This is sometimes cause by the diagnostic system, because we are checking of
500k on the 250k buss. Ignore unless your mpem is truly having issues communicating
with the ECU

 

[ski-d00]

Did you change plugs?

All of your codes are inactive except for the 1681 which could be several things.

Need more info. Is you cluster working fine? Idle fine? 130 or 155? Start fine? Battery voltage not running and running? Need to scan it with it running to see what codes become active.

 

[lmarkie74]

Did you change plugs?

All of your codes are inactive except for the 1681 which could be several things.

Need more info. Is you cluster working fine? Idle fine? 130 or 155? Start fine? Battery voltage not running and running? Need to scan it with it running to see what codes become active.

Cluster, like typically many others I read about, is not working. $1,000 to replace. Ran fine 2 weeks ago without cluster. Idles very good. When you get to 3,000 RPM it stutters. It's a 130 hp. Starts great! It has one of those shitty Walmart batteries. I replaced the battery yesterday to a good 20 amp hours. Same as my 3 other jet skis. I removed the oil pressure switch and measure oil pressure with a gauge. 105 psi at idle. Haven't looked at the spec but if I remember right, that is pretty good. Glad you pointed out the inactive. Now I know how to read the software. I'll hook it up to CandooPro and run it and let you know.

 

[ski-d00]

Did you change plugs?

Battery voltage not running and running?

 

[dcm0123]

This sounds like the machine is going into limp mode to protect the engine. Mine did the same at about 3500 RPM when it had a problem. Ours (2005 RXT) has 2 oil switches and a defective tip over valve which is no longer made. Solution is strp the guts from the valve and reassemble (do not tip it over otherwise engine oil will run into your air duct feeding into the throttle body).

Just because you have measured good oil pressure on the machine, does not mean the switch is working correct to detect it.

I suggest you clear and read the codes again.

I use Candoo and have the P1680 code as well. This is because the reader operates at a different frequency than the machine. Not an issue.

 

[POPPS]

Those oil switches always go

 

[lmarkie74]

This sounds like the machine is going into limp mode to protect the engine. Mine did the same at about 3500 RPM when it had a problem. Ours (2005 RXT) has 2 oil switches and a defective tip over valve which is no longer made. Solution is strp the guts from the valve and reassemble (do not tip it over otherwise engine oil will run into your air duct feeding into the throttle body).

Just because you have measured good oil pressure on the machine, does not mean the switch is working correct to detect it.

I suggest you clear and read the codes again.

I use Candoo and have the P1680 code as well. This is because the reader operates at a different frequency than the machine. Not an issue.

I have cleared all my codes and this is what I came up with after running jet ski again:

Faults
P0520
◦ Status: Occurred
◦ Source: ECU
◦ Description: Oil pressure switch faulty
◦ Solution: Note: Consult the service manual for details
•
P0339
◦ Status: Active
◦ Source: ECU
◦ Description: Crank signal fault not plausible with cam signal (Crank Signal Intermittent)
◦ Solution: Note: Consult the service manual for details
•
P1681
◦ Status: Active
◦ Source: MPEM
◦ Description: Communication problem - instrument cluster message missing
◦ Solution: Note: Consult the service manual for details

Still the P0520 error code even though I replaced the oil pressure switch. I'm guessing the P0339 error code is because of the "Limp Mode" causing a "stutter" or "miss". It is an Active code though.

I'll take a look at the TOPS Valve. Manual shows blowing air through valve in one position and blowing air in another position. Doesn't say anything about gutting it. Guess I'll see. I have 4 jet skis. Seems something is always going wrong with them even if they have been sitting.

 

[lmarkie74]

Got distracted by someone......does the TOPS Valve go back together like the first picture or second picture? Large chamfer not into the lower body or into the lower body?

 

[dcm0123]

Not sure, this is a later design valve than the 2005 has.
Try YouTube video's.

This tells you how to test it-

If you have not replaced both oil pressure switches, I would start there.

 

[lmarkie74]

This is the instructions I used last night. Mine was fine. Air flows freely when upright, air doesn't flow when turned upside down. I don't believe my 2006 GTI SE has 2 oil pressure switches like your 2005 RXT. At least I couldn't find it by looking at the 2005 RXT parts manual and the 2006 GTI SE parts manual. I changed the one to the rear that screws into the rear of the engine block. Nothing changed.

 

[dcm0123]

I looked and could not find it in yours either.
They call the second oil switch an oil seperator pressure switch (OSPS) which senses crank case pressure and tells when to open the TOPS valve to vent the crank case or send a fault signal.
Maybe when they redesigned the TOPS valve they decided there was no need for the second switch.

 

[lmarkie74]

Looks like for sure I don't have a OSPS (oil separator pressure switch).



Here is diagram of my Engine Management System. OSPS not listed. There is a Interrupt T.O.P.S switch mounted next to the MPEM. We both have this switch in our Seadoos. Wonder if it could be a problem?

I did measure resistance of the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor), being as I am having an ACTIVE P0339 - Crank signal fault not plausible with cam signal error code. The resistance is suppose to between 190Ω to 290Ω. I measure .947kΩ (947Ω). Way out of range. High resistance. We'll see if that helps.

 

[ski-d00]

Did you change your spark plugs?

 

[lmarkie74]

Did you change your spark plugs?

Yep

 

[dcm0123]

It could be the crank sensor since it is out of range. If you have to do major surgery to get at the crank sensor, I would start off by checking all wiring leading to the sensor first. If there are additional connectors between where you are measuring the ohms and the sensor, check them for corrosion.

If it is easy to pull out, remove it and wipe the face to remove any metal debris which may have built up, reinstall then measure again. Move the wire around while measuring to see if the resistance changes indicting a break in the wire.

Some of the CPS's (such as mine) are inside the PTO housing. Not an easy task to get at. If I had to go this route, I would not take chances and replace it when it is apart. Looking at the Seadoo 2006 GTI parts pictorial, you may have gotten lucky and can access without removing the PTO housing.

I checked my TOPS switch when I was having an issue but felt it was OK. My recollection is you have to take it out to invert it and you can check it with an ohm meter. Mine has a loose ball inside it which moves around if it is inverted. It will rattle if you shake it.

 

[lmarkie74]

It could be the crank sensor since it is out of range. If you have to do major surgery to get at the crank sensor, I would start off by checking all wiring leading to the sensor first. If there are additional connectors between where you are measuring the ohms and the sensor, check them for corrosion.

If it is easy to pull out, remove it and wipe the face to remove any metal debris which may have built up, reinstall then measure again. Move the wire around while measuring to see if the resistance changes indicting a break in the wire.

Some of the CPS's (such as mine) are inside the PTO housing. Not an easy task to get at. If I had to go this route, I would not take chances and replace it when it is apart. Looking at the Seadoo 2006 GTI parts pictorial, you may have gotten lucky and can access without removing the PTO housing.

I checked my TOPS switch when I was having an issue but felt it was OK. My recollection is you have to take it out to invert it and you can check it with an ohm meter. Mine has a loose ball inside it which moves around if it is inverted. It will rattle if you shake it.

The CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) is rather easy to get to and remove. There were some small metal shavings on it, but not alarming. Again, was 940Ω outside the 190Ω to 290Ω range. I had replaced a Crankshaft Position Sensor in my 2000 GTX RFI. Funny, it measured about 940Ω. The range on that 2000 GTX RFI 2 stroke jet ski is 774Ω to 947Ω, which would put it in the range as good. Are 4-Strokes that much different than 2 strokes? I didn't get a change last night to check out the TOPS switch. It's all I have left....I think?

I do have a new CPS coming.

 

[dcm0123]

Is yours a 2 or 4 stroke? I was under impression they stopped making 2 stroke about 2004.

Please take a measurement when you have the new one. These are very simple devices- typically a wire wound core and a magnet (which attracts metal). Not much to go wrong.

 

[lmarkie74]

1503cc, 4-Stroke, 3 cylinder. CPS didn't show up today, but you can bet I'm going to measure the resistance when it gets here.

 

[lmarkie74]

CPS showed up today from Amazon in plastic bag with the wire cut and no o'ring. Actually looked like it was used. What a disappointment! A little bit of the wire from the 2 wires were stick out enough I could measure resistance. Turn out to be 891 ohms. The manual says 190 ohms to 290 ohms. Something is wrong! Either the manual or Sensor. My 2000 GTX RFI is 947 ohms.

 

[ski-d00]

700-900 ohms is correct for the 2006ish and newer external CPS. 2005 and older had the internal CPS. Many times the manual isn't updated for the year of the change.

 

[lmarkie74]

700-900 ohms is correct for the 2006ish and newer external CPS. 2005 and older had the internal CPS. Many times the manual isn't updated for the year of the change.

Thank you so much. Chasing my tale with bad Seadoo manual information. My 2000 GTX RFI has the external CPS and measures 947Ω. The 2006 4-tec and my 2000 GTX RFI CPS's look very much the same.

 

[lmarkie74]

I have discovered my problem. One of those live and learn mistakes. The Instrument Cluster of my 2006 Seadoo GTI SE was not working. I 3d printed a new dash (PETG), added a GPS speedometer, Fuel Gauge, and a digital tachometer.

I tapped into the CPS wire at the connect below the TOPS valve and ran it to the signal input of the Tachometer. Got to thinking that the motor was running great before I did this. I disconnect the tap wire, ran the jet ski off the garden hose. Using my CandooPro, I cleared all codes and the P0520 & P0339 codes did not come back. P01618 did though (not a problem). Engine had great throttle response, no backfiring, and missing. Sounded great!

I got the idea from a Youtube video to replace the bad instrument cluster. He placed a 1ufd 100volt capacitor inline between the tapped CPS wire and the RPM gauge input. His worked. I haven't tried this yet. Waiting on Amazon. Use to be able to run to Radio Shack and pick up one. Not anymore. I am assuming that the capacitor works as a constant power storage/filter of some kind.

I'll let you all know.

 

[ski-d00]

Why not just buy a new cluster for around $450?

 

[lmarkie74]

Why not just buy a new cluster for around $450?

$650 was the best price I found! The problem that have with this cluster is they crack and are not water tight. The potential is still there to go bad.

I have less than $150 in this one. If gauges go bad, back to Amazon. I saved around $450 in Bud Lights. Why would you not want to save money?

 

[lmarkie74]

I checked my TOPS switch when I was having an issue but felt it was OK. My recollection is you have to take it out to invert it and you can check it with an ohm meter. Mine has a loose ball inside it which moves around if it is inverted. It will rattle if you shake it.

Parts manual calls it an interruptor T.O.P.S switch. I removed mine and it rattles like a paint can also. Did you measure your's for continuity? In the up position, though pins A & C, I get 9.4 milli ohms. Down position is the same. Manual shows 35 ohms in the up position and 10 ohms in the down position. Way off from the manual.