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2006 RXP 215 bogging down out of the hole

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jblocker07

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I just recently purchased a '06 RXP 215. Ski has 95 hours on it and wasn't ran constantly so the previous owner says. When you hammer down on it, out of the hole, it seems to bog down and take longer than usual to plane out. Any suggestions on what might be the problem or what I can do to increase its performance with out going broke?
 
What does it top out at? At 95 hours, if the Supercharger hasn't been serviced it could have failed and your engine won't make good power as a result. Pull the hose off your SC and reach into it with your fingers and try to turn the air impeller in there by hand... it should be VERY stiff, hard to turn but not impossible. If it turns easily though, or Heaven forbid you can actually spin it by your fingertips, then you have a SC problem!

My 2006 RXT nearly leaps out of the water when I hit the throttle from a dead stop. But I can also hear my supercharger spinning up at the same time, building power. And that was with a dinged up impeller and badly gouged wear-ring (I'm in the process of replacing both this week, just waiting on the impeller tool to come in so I can do the impeller now).

Regards!

- Michael
 
sounds like your supercharger clutch might be going. The supercharger forces the air that fuel needs, sounds like the fuel is there just not enough air to properly combust hens the bogging. keep us posted!
 
thanks guys, im going to go pull the hose off today and check the clutch. I also was thinking maybe i have a spark plug issue?
 
its possible, i know someone that had a 2006 gti 155 with 118hrs. and plugs made it run alot nicer. Are they the original plugs from 95hrs. ago? Also seadoo has a 100hr. manditory service interval for the supercharger for a reason...
 
thanks guys, im going to go pull the hose off today and check the clutch. I also was thinking maybe i have a spark plug issue?

I believe in marine conditions, you should probably put new plugs in when you do your seasonal oil/filter change. They're not very expensive after all and while you're in there you might as well replace them.

- Michael
 
you can use what ever semi-synthetic oil you want, your just not supposed to run a full synthetic because it is supposed to make the supercharger clutch slip or something like that, that is what the dealer told me. I stay away from anything OEM seadoo they kill you on the price when you could probably get a good marine grade semi-synthetic oil for less. Mine is non-supercharged so i just run a Mobile 1 full synthetic 5w-30.
 
oh ok cool, thanks man. i know i have to run a 10-40 semi synthetic, just didnt know if the brand mattered much.
 
oh ok cool, thanks man. i know i have to run a 10-40 semi synthetic, just didnt know if the brand mattered much.

Honestly, I'd rather pay a bit more for the BRP 4TEC oil once a year than have to replace the engine. Even the BRP oil is cheap compared to the cost of a replacement engine! I prefer to stick with the BRP 4TEC Supercharger compatible oil, even though it's more expensive than other oil brands.

The SC clutch washers are "slip washers".... if you use an oil that is more slippery than the washers are designed for, then they're going to "slip" that much more easily if not constantly! The washers require at least some friction in order to work correctly and spin the supercharger wheel at the correct RPM's as you accelerate. When you release the throttle suddenly, the washers will slip allowing the SC air impeller to slow down faster than the engine rpms (the engine instantly needs a lot less air, even though it's still turning very high rpm's, when the throttle closes down suddenly).

The original ceramic SC clutch washers were attacked and weakened by most synthetic oils (partial or full synthetic). BRP did eventually come up with a semi-synthetic blend that was compatible with the cermic washers (and provides the correct amount of slippage, even for the steel washers used OEM today and as replacements for cermic washers).

This is why it's so important to use the correctly blended oil, as I understand it.

Regards!

- Michael
 
that is a good question, i always thought they had ceramic in the 185HP SC 2003s and 2004 RXP 215s. To my understanding they switched in 05? but i think it is the other way around? i'm confused on that one myself..and how does yamaha and kawi get away with supercharging and not having these issues?
 
BRP non synthetic is what I recommend, semi-synthetic is not proven yet.

In 03, the sc had metal washers that wore heavily. In 04-07, the sc had ceramic that would break. In 08 to present, they are metal but plated with titanium that flakes off. They still don't have it right, the aftermarket sc kits are superior, like RIVA.
 
Yea the BRP is the way im going to go. I appreciate all the info. I need and want to learn as much as i can about this thing so i dont have to spend a fortune payin dealerships and shops to do the work i can do.
 
agreed Jblock. Im just praying (literally) that when I reach into the SC this weekend it doesnt spin real easy.
 
i hear ya man, i checked mine yesterday and it was fine, the spark plugs werent bad when i checked them, i just went ahead and replaced them while i had them out. probably changing the oil this week.
 
How many hours on yours? The previous owner of my RXT never did any mantainence on it besides oil and flushings. How hard is it to change
plugs and how different is the RXP to the RXT?
 
mines got 95 hrs, and plugs are nothin to change, just pull the plastic cover off the top, and ull see the three plugs, unconnect them and pull the tops off, get a extension and a deep well socket and ull be done in no time
 
Oh nice, thanks. Wondering (hoping) the lack of a few mph off the top speed is a plug problem since they are original.
 
when plugs aren't working, you'll know it, they don't wear out, they just quit. your problem is not plugs, it's something else, could be sc, could be pump issues, or a few other less likely things.

the sc makes a distinct whine when revved, you can tell if it's working right away if you have a trained ear.
 
there is a lot of things to take into consideration, plugs maybe, but normally it comes down to the condition of the pump, full engine RPMs, and how the engine is running. If the supercharger is slipping you might run a little rich and not reach full RPM which could be it, but usually your oxygen sensor and MAP sensor take care of adjusting fuel rate based on how much boost the supercharger is producing. or your just loosing thrust from a large gap between your impeller and wear ring. Condition of impeller also plays a big role. Check to make your throttle body flap is all the way open too.
 
As far as I can tell the engine is running perfect and if I remember correctly I was getting around 7900rpms out of it at full bore.
Like I said though everything is original on it from 2007. This winter Ill put it in the garage and give it a real good tune-up.
 
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