2003 XPDI Need some Advice!!!

[68ragtop]

here are the filters:

The bottom filter FS242
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...arch=-1&isAllVehicle=true&vehicleIdFromReq=-1
.
The inner filter FS220.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...ehicleIdSearch=-1&searchTerm=fs220&showTitle=

I guess they are more than $20, but still worth trying.

sadly its possible that if it is plugged up, the damage might be done, but who knows??

 

[Nodakman]

Yes that's a good idea I will definitely do that, it's worth a shot... What I plan to do is if I can find some toluene I wanted to bench run it and see if I can clean it up and also pressure test to see what it is pushing .. While I'm doing that I might see what it is drawing for amperage since I'll be right there... If it works awesome if not then I will be trying the high flow pump which is supposed to only draw 9amps instead of the 12 amps these other aftermarket ones are doing. So the system should handle it just don't want to be idling around a lot.
And ragtop I used those numbers and got filters coming if I can bring my pump back to life.

 

[68ragtop]

I screwed up the link for the FS220 & just fixed it. hopefully you didn't order (2) of the FS242's

sorry about that.......

 

[Nodakman]

No your good I saw that ...got one of each haha

 

[68ragtop]

when you get the chance, pull out the inner filter. you will probably have to drill out the three rivets & separate the bottom to get to the filter properly. but you could try it together first? That would save you some work re-sealing the bottom of the housing. The bottom is sealed to the sleeve, so they don't just fall apart. takes a little work & will need to be re-sealed after.

The inner filter holds a check valve in place. It looks like a washer with a hole in the center. That check valve stays closed by default, but is designed to open under demand from the pump. it's entirely possible that the check valve is rusted in the closed position, based on what your pump looks like. It might be perfectly operational, but if not, it could be part of the problem. I'm going to hope its stuck.

The possible bad news is, its also possible that it was stuck for a while & during that time pulling all the available fuel from the baffle. That would overheat the pump & could cause a failure. I guess we'll have to wait & see what you find!

 

[Nodakman]

I didn't state this earlier but the check valve was free I was able to move it before I took apart the assembly so that's out ... And I was able to get the bottom filter out with out taking out the rivets out used a long hemostat and a long pick.., that filter was a bugger to get out...... So not looking good for my pump [emoji19]

 

[68ragtop]

One problem with trying to find replacement pumps is many of them draw too much current and the charging system can't supply enough current to keep the battery from being discharged. So that might be an issue.

There's an 787/800 RFI ski thread somewhere here that lists which aftermarket pumps will work, sorry I don't have the link bookmarked.

I Put an ammeter on a DI pump. draws 2.9A @ key on, & 4.9A running. Pretty impressive for 100+ PSI.
Interesting that it has a 15A fuse. Should be able to run on a 10A forever.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yeah, the surge current is probably why such a large fuse was selected I'd guess. I've heard the performance is due to some kind of proprietary drive or motor and only a couple of manufacturers have license to build them. It really is impressive they can make that much pressure and still pump adequate quantity while drawing less than 5A, must be a pretty slick design!

 

[davo94]

So what was the verdict on this? Did you fix it?

 

[Nodakman]

To finalize this post I got it fixed!!! I did all the testing necessary and positively verified that the fuel pump was the issue. I ordered a high flow performance fuel pump HFP-342DI. I installed it and she fired right up! I took it down to the lake for a serious test and it ran like a dream with no issues at all. Ran it for about 3 hours putting it through all the paces and had a blast. The xpdi is a fun, fast, and sharp turning machine. Now I have it winterized and will be waiting till next year to bring it back out.

Thank you to all the people who helped me with get this beast running, I couldn't have done it without all the help!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Coastiejoe]

The one thing a DI ski MUST HAVE is fuel pressure. Glad you got it fixed. Hope winter goes quickly for you...

 

[davo94]

Congratulations on fixing it and thanks for a great thread as im sure it will help others.

 

[BDARCHER]

Im having the same problem. The 78 lb fuel issue. I have no air pressure from the air pump to the fuel rail. I pulled the motor from the 03 XPDI a pain in the butt. Compressor looks ok no broke reeds. Maybe a broke ring. With motor on bench and spark plugs out i hooked a battery up to starter and spun it over. Pump is pulsing air in an out of intake fitting but no head pressure. any help would be very helpful

 

[68ragtop]

Im having the same problem. The 78 lb fuel issue. I have no air pressure from the air pump to the fuel rail. I pulled the motor from the 03 XPDI a pain in the butt. Compressor looks ok no broke reeds. Maybe a broke ring. With motor on bench and spark plugs out i hooked a battery up to starter and spun it over. Pump is pulsing air in an out of intake fitting but no head pressure. any help would be very helpful

if you are getting no air pump output, or the air pressure line is disconnected & spark plugs are out it would be impossible to get 78lbs of fuel rail pressure unless the fuel pressure regulator has gone bad.

It is possible however to get the fuel pressure higher than 27lbs while cranking even with a bad pump if the air line is connected & the spark plugs are installed. I am not sure how you are getting these readings at all though with the engine sitting on the bench. you might need to clarify a little better. I'm not sure what you mean by head pressure or the intake fitting. DI's are complicated, so you can never give too much detailed information.

air pressure directly effects the regulator for the fuel pressure. In a properly running system, the fuel pressure will always be 27lbs higher than the air pressure. The air system side should make about 90psi.

 

[BDARCHER]

Sorry for not being clear. With the motor in ski cranking it over with plug out i get 27 psi. With plug in cranking I get 78 psi. Cranking with plugs in in flood mode 27lbs. With motor in ski an air line disconnected from fuel rail cranking over no air pressure from air line at all. I have motor on bench with battery hooked to starter with starter switch to spin motor over to see if air pump was pumping anything at all. nothing. Where the pump takes air i called it the pump air intake it pulses air back an fourth while cranking over.not just sucking air. And no air on the pressure side. The air pump reeds looked ok when i took it apart. I hope this is better Bdarcher

 

[68ragtop]

That makes good sense. The reason you see the fuel pressure rise with the plugs in is because the air injectors are opening, but rather than air/fuel being pushed into the combustion chamber, the compressed air in the cylinders is being forced backwards into the air rail & that pressure will raise the fuel pressure. when its in flood mode, the injectors will stay closed.

if you dead head a pressure gage on the air line coming from the air pump, it should build 90-100 psi during cranking. if not, there is something wrong with the air pump. Easy enough to remove it to inspect things. Just have to pull the PTO flywheel to get the plastic access cover off. The Allen bolt that holds the pin for the air pump connecting rod is a one time use bolt. It should be replaced after its been removed.

 

[BDARCHER]

I just replaced the air pump piston assembly while i had motor out for a new top end. I bought the SBT air pump kit. The air pump rod bearing failed after about 5 min. I guess i should have left it alone. There is some fine metel pieces in air pump crankcase. I guess I need to split case to clean fine metal pieces out and try again. I used the grease on the air pump rod bearing that i used on my 215 RXT supercharger rebuild. Maybe that was wrong. Thanks for the help. Its nice to chat with someone that knows these DIs.

 

[68ragtop]

That cavity is sealed off from the rest of the engine, but if you still have the original bearings on the countershaft, its an open style where that bearing probably has been subject to the debris. I would also clean out the oil return line on the bottom. That line brings the oil back to the oil tank at the filler neck.

Can you post some pictures? I would be more suspect of the aftermarket part being defective, rather than your assembly lube. Not much too those little bearings tho, thats for sure.