2001 GTX RFI rebuild help

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robrat20

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Ok I bought a 2001 GTX RFI for 350 dollars with a trailer. The thing ran with 118hrs on it but only had 25psi on both cylinders. I did a water test to make sure it would float and run did about 12mph with 25psi, forward and reverse worked. I bought a rebuilt motor with a no fault warranty. I have a manual and took pictures when I removed it, other than a motor and new wear ring everything else seems to be in running order. I want some pointers on reinstall that will make this process easier for me. I’m new to two stroke jet skis but not two stroke motors. I’m waiting for the new motor to arrive should be in the next few weeks. Here’s what I’ve done any suggestions will help.

Rebuilt rave things and rave blades sent to get clearance
Fuel and oil tanks drained and filters changed, fuel injectors sent to be tested and cleaned.
Inside hull cleaned
Cleaned all parts and bought all new gaskets and o rings for reinstall.
Wear ring is in the mail
Thanks Rob
 
[MENTION=74681]robrat20[/MENTION]: I also have a 2001 GTX RFI. While I am completely new to jet skis, and will not be able to answer many questions, if you need something for comparison, I will be happy to share photos of specific areas so you can see what it looks like fully assembled to help you get yours back together.

I found this thread to be very helpful in my education.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?50814-The-RFI-(Rotax-Fuel-Injection-)-Spot


-Dave
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What is the name if said tool. So just can't mount it back to the original motor mounts still in the hull
 
Here is a link to the tool I rent out.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?69943-Alignment-Tool-Rental

To expand on this a bit...
Alignment is VERY important, I would even use the word critical. If we ONLY look at the pump aspect, the gap from the impeller to the wear ring is less than the width of a dime. If the alignment is not near perfect, the impeller will either be offset of there will be pressure against the bearings in one place. Misalignment also create constant pressure on the drive shaft causing to wear at an higher rate, which will wipe out the splines. At the engine, misalignment causes bearing issues as well. Simply unbolting and dropping an engine in is enough for the need to align things, especially true if you get a different engine or mounts. The mounts are different thicknesses and the bosses on the engines are different lengths.



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So I take it you need the alignment tool to work on the pump or replace the carbon seal? I think Ski 13 needs a new carbon seal after sucking a rope up which wrapped around the drive shaft. Getting more water in the bilge.
 
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