Hi all just rebuilt a 02 rfi 787 with a wsm crank and pro x pistons bored over a little I did a good amount of homework on it as this is my first ski rebuild I understand I have to prime the oil lines on first start up my question is can I run it for any length of time on the hose for first start up to wear it in? or do I need to head to the lake for break in? Also no premix right since it’s fuel injected? And I can run it with the driveshaft off too correct?Any other suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks all
-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
02 gtx rfi full rebuild
- Thread starter Abomb1985
- Start date
shamrock246
New Member
I ran mine on the hose only for couple of minutes just checking for leaks and to make sure the engine sounded good after that went to the water and started the break in, no pre mix on the injected skis, you can prime and bleed the oil pump with a drill, never tried to run it without the drive shaft. I ran it on the trailer while backed into the water for a bit for a secondary leak check.
wrench2ride
Active Member
I always bleed the pump at the bleed screw and then when I start it for the first time I'll hold the oil pump wide open with my finger while it runs for a couple of minutes, everything is coated in 2 stroke oil when I'm rebuilding it and I drop about 15-20 cc's of oil in each side of the rotary valve openings at start up. its best to hook it up to the flush while your doing this but of course don't start the water until its running.
you could run it without the driveshaft in it, I wouldn't be reving it up with no load on it.
No premix, its semi direct injection so the oil in the fuel basically only sees the top of the piston.
you could run it without the driveshaft in it, I wouldn't be reving it up with no load on it.
No premix, its semi direct injection so the oil in the fuel basically only sees the top of the piston.
Thanks for the reply! I have 2 final questions, so I’m bored over .50 so when I rebuilt the raves I took a piece of sand paper and wrapped it around my old piston and sanded the valves down a little to clean up the little bit of damage on them and also for clearance since I’m a little over. I put the valves in by themselves and wiggled them around and cycled the engine to check for any rubbing and there was none so does that mean I’m good? Also the way the flywheel went on the crank with that little key seemed a little sketchy so I put a little red thread lock on the key and then obviously the threads. Am I going overboard by doing that or did that look a little concerning to you guys as well? Thanks
wrench2ride
Active Member
sounds like you should be ok, but you do need to have some clearance because when things heat up they are going to expand.
I usually trim them before I install the cylinder and check them with a straight edge and feeler gauge.
the key just times the flywheel, the taper on the crank and flywheel is a pretty strong fit, think about a pto flywheel on a 951 engine, or a clutch on a sled engine, they are a taper fit with no key. not going to hurt having some loctite on it though just make sure you got it tightened to spec before the loctite dries
I usually trim them before I install the cylinder and check them with a straight edge and feeler gauge.
the key just times the flywheel, the taper on the crank and flywheel is a pretty strong fit, think about a pto flywheel on a 951 engine, or a clutch on a sled engine, they are a taper fit with no key. not going to hurt having some loctite on it though just make sure you got it tightened to spec before the loctite dries
Yeah I tightened the flywheel up right away. As far as the raves I already have the motor ready to drop in so I don’t really wanna take it apart but I might pull the valves off and take some more off just to be safe if I take to much off is that gonna be a big deal as far as performance? Thanks for the help I’m kinda a newb
wrench2ride
Active Member
I would say your not going to notice it but there will be a point when too much is too much
So I got the motor in and it fired right up I only ran it for about 15 sec a few times but it seems to have a high idle I don’t have a gauge on my ski but I would say probably like 2-2500 rpm but I don’t have the driveshaft connected and the air box is off if either of them things matter? What should idle be? And how is it adjusted on rfi ? Hope I don’t have to mess around with tps or something like that.
shamrock246
New Member
Idle speed out of the water is 3000 rpm in the water it’s 1500 rpm.
wrench2ride
Active Member
I don’t have any access to technical documents right now, if I remember in the next day or two I’ll take a look.but an RFI runs at a high idle until the water temp sensor heats up and then it drops because it runs on one cylinder at an idle, I can’t remember what years but early rfis run on the mag cylinder at idle and later years ran a stratified idle where it switched cylinders it would idle on but they still run on one cylinder at idle.
Having the driveshaft hooked up and the air box on isn’t going to affect your idle rpm.
You can’t just turn up the throttle plate stop to adjust idle, the only adjustment you can make is the tps sensor and you need the computer to do it, you have to back the screw off all the way hit the reset tps sensor on the computer and then turn the screw in until the throttle plate opens to the spec degrees opening
What shamrock mentioned goes for every carbureted engine.
Having the driveshaft hooked up and the air box on isn’t going to affect your idle rpm.
You can’t just turn up the throttle plate stop to adjust idle, the only adjustment you can make is the tps sensor and you need the computer to do it, you have to back the screw off all the way hit the reset tps sensor on the computer and then turn the screw in until the throttle plate opens to the spec degrees opening
What shamrock mentioned goes for every carbureted engine.
Ok well maybe it’s ok then if it’s supposed to run that high out of the water I’m in Minnesota waiting for the lakes to open I think I have a few weeks till I can get it in the water I’m also waiting for an alignment tool to come how many shims does it usually take would a pack of ten be enough? Thanks again
Try servicing the rave valves
So I am still trying to get the ski to get over 5500 rpm I pulled the raves off and they are covered in wet oil so I decided to check compression and I’m reading 90 in both cylinders. I bought a cheap Pittsburg gauge should I assume that the gauge is no good if the Jetski seems to run pretty good other then I can’t get it above 5500 rpm? Also when I brought it to the lake for the first time the idle was a little low so I turned up the idle screw a little bit would that have anything to do with it not getting more rpm on the top end? One more thing the motor only has about 2 hours of run time on it after the rebuild is that enough time to be able to check compression? Thanks guys
Yes. If they are both reading 90 pounds I would assume that the compression tester is no good, seems to be very common with the ones from harbour Freight, not sure which brand it is, but guessing the one you got Pittsburgh. When you had the raves apart did you inspect the bellows? Inspect the o rings on the guillotines and make sure they are both there? Have you tried testing the voltage regulator/rectifier by putting a volt meter on the battery and then reving the machine up to about 4500 rpm? Can’t remember if you already answered this or not but did you rebuild the carbs? Mikuni? From where?
NVM about the carb rebuild, just looked back, RFI
Not sure where your at, have you tested fuel pressure? Injectors professionally cleaned? After checking regulator, that’s where I would look. What was the compression readings before the rebuild?
So I bought the Jetski with a blown motor the guy told me his kids flipped it and got water in it when I got it it turned over but that was about it so I did a full rebuild.the motor had a lot of sand in the cylinder walls and the pistons were pretty messed up when I did the rebuild I rebuilt the raves with new bellows and rings with the green bellows I found on Amazon they seemed a little stiff so I found a good used set of raves on eBay that I just got yesterday and I cleaned them up and inspected them and they look good they are oem so I’m gonna try them tomorrow I also got a new check valve as mine seemed plugged but the new one I just got might have a little more flow. I don’t have a way to test fuel pressure but I might have to figure that out soon.I bought a rectifier on eBay for cheap I might try to throw that in quick too. What should I get for a reading off the battery to check the rec?
The reading in the battery should be about 13.5 at 4500 rpm, I wouldn’t change to much at once, wait till you put the OEM raves in, I’ve heard of the cheap amazon ones causing problems. Most on here stay away from amazon and eBay for parts. Seadoowarehouse.com and Osdparts.com both have OEM parts or proven parts that work.
Make sure you use your guillotines that have been shaved down, don’t use the guillotines with the used OEM your getting in case they are for standard bore
Yeah I cut the raves down on the set I just got I am really afraid of ruining the pistons. I’m gonna test the rec tomorrow and try the new set with the new check valve. I feel like the raves were working for a tiny bit right when I took it out the first time I seen 6000 for a few seconds
