2000 seadoo xp pump shimming

[Landen Koch]

Do I need to buy the actual oem shims for the pump or will washers work? I’m in the process of aligning everything and noticed that the tool is sliding through the thru hull fitting more on the low side, not centered through the hole so I need to shim it to get it centered up.

 

[mikidymac]

You don't shim the pump, you shim the engine.
You can make your own shims out of aluminum soda cans.

 

[Landen Koch]

Yes I know I will shim the engine, but I have to shim the pump first to get the tool to slide through the thru hull fitting right in the center of the hole so I can correctly align the engine, so do I need to have the oem shims for the pump or will washers work?

 

[mikidymac]

What I am saying is you don't shim the pump.
You shim the shoe that is attached to the hull and then the pump bolts to the shoe.

 

[Landen Koch]

Have you ever done it?

 

[DanSquires]

You can use washers, but it doesn't take much to move those so they need to be really thin. I've cut shins out of aluminum cans for this more than once

 

[WhiskeyD]

What I am saying is you don't shim the pump.
You shim the shoe that is attached to the hull and then the pump bolts to the shoe.

Yes you can. I've seen many seadoos came from the factory with pump shims installed. You could shim the shoe as well but a lot of people do shim pump to shoe.

 

[mikidymac]

Yes you can. I've seen many seadoos came from the factory with pump shims installed. You could shim the shoe as well but a lot of people do shim pump to shoe.

I have never seen the pump shimmed on models with the shoe but that doesn't mean they didn't.
When doing it that way do you use some kind of sealant on the pump to shoe surface?
If you add shims to the pump studs then you are not going to get good or even pressure on the pump to shoe seal.

 

[Landen Koch]

Well I’m not sure, I’ve never done it, it’s pretty bad and I know the 3 water lines aren’t gonna seal but I’m not sure if I’ll get cavitation or not, I wouldn’t think I would

 

[mikidymac]

Well I’m not sure, I’ve never done it, it’s pretty bad and I know the 3 water lines aren’t gonna seal but I’m not sure if I’ll get cavitation or not, I wouldn’t think I would

That will be the concern if you shim it too much. Water feed and siphon lines won't seal along with the pump seal.
Yes, I have done the shoe. The hardest part is getting the old shoe off without breaking it as the factory uses a lot of RTV.

The way I did it was to get the alignment tool centered in the through hull fitting and very close to the centerline of the engine PTO by adding shims between the 4 hull studs and the alignment tool. This will set your shims for the shoe. Then reseal/reinstall the shoe with the new shims. Then you can go about final shiming of the engine as normal. THis is how they did it at the factory.

 

[Landen Koch]

That will be the concern if you shim it too much. Water feed and siphon lines won't seal along with the pump seal.
Yes, I have done the shoe. The hardest part is getting the old shoe off without breaking it as the factory uses a lot of RTV.

The way I did it was to get the alignment tool centered in the through hull fitting and very close to the centerline of the engine PTO by adding shims between the 4 hull studs and the alignment tool. This will set your shims for the shoe. Then reseal/reinstall the shoe with the new shims. Then you can go about final shiming of the engine as normal. THis is how they did it at the factory.

Ya that makes sense, do you have to take any bolts out of the ride plate or just the 2 on the intake grate and the 4 nuts on the inside of ski holding the support on and all the water lines, steering cable and trim shaft? I wish there was a video that I could watch. Im not looking forward to this but it’s probably going to be the only way

 

[WhiskeyD]

I have never seen the pump shimmed on models with the shoe but that doesn't mean they didn't.
When doing it that way do you use some kind of sealant on the pump to shoe surface?
If you add shims to the pump studs then you are not going to get good or even pressure on the pump to shoe seal.

If it doesn't seal properly I had a thin coat of RTV. The bailers and water in still seal fine. It doesn't take much shim at all. Usually one or two and they are super thin.

 

[Landen Koch]

If it doesn't seal properly I had a thin coat of RTV. The bailers and water in still seal fine. It doesn't take much shim at all. Usually one or two and they are super thin.

Did you have any problems with cavitation or anything at all when doing that? I also got 3 new o rings because I’m sure the original ones are pretty smashed so that will help a little bit. Would rather not remove the pump support even though it’s probably the right way to do it

 

[Venturian1]

Did you try bolting up a different pump to see if the problem still exists?

 

[Landen Koch]

Did you try bolting up a different pump to see if the problem still exists?

Don’t have another pump and I wouldn’t think that would make any difference, it’s all in the hull

 

[Venturian1]

And the impeller shaft bearings are new, and/or the alignment tool is a snug fit in the bearings?
How did the wear ring look? worn more on one side than the other? Nothing on either lower stud that would prevent the impeller from seating squarely? You could always change out the carbon ring to the older style with two needle bearings and a rubber oil seal.

 

[mikidymac]

And the impeller shaft bearings are new, and/or the alignment tool is a snug fit in the bearings?
How did the wear ring look? worn more on one side than the other? Nothing on either lower stud that would prevent the impeller from seating squarely? You could always change out the carbon ring to the older style with two needle bearings and a rubber oil seal.

If you are using the correct alignment tool the pump has nothing to do with the engine alignment. It is all based on the 4 hull bolts.
Carbon ring and driveshaft seal also have nothing to do with alignment.

 

[Landen Koch]

And the impeller shaft bearings are new, and/or the alignment tool is a snug fit in the bearings?
How did the wear ring look? worn more on one side than the other? Nothing on either lower stud that would prevent the impeller from seating squarely? You could always change out the carbon ring to the older style with two needle bearings and a rubber oil seal.

The pump was rebuilt, but the tool is not connected in any way to the pump, the plate that holds the long rod bolts to where the pump would go, I have thought about just going to a carrier bearing seal but not sure if it will work with the little c clip groove

If you are using the correct alignment tool the pump has nothing to do with the engine alignment. It is all based on the 4 hull bolts.
Carbon ring and driveshaft seal also have nothing to do with alignment.

ya the pump wouldn’t change anything, I got 3 new o rings for the 3 water lines and they are much thicker but I’m still planning on using some sealant, if that doesn’t work then I will probably have to pull the pump support. The last owner put a worx intake grate on it and said when he took the back 2 bolts out the brass fittings came out with the bolts, so he just put screws right through the pump support scoop area which has always made me nervous about the screws falling out

 

[Venturian1]

If you are using the correct alignment tool the pump has nothing to do with the engine alignment. It is all based on the 4 hull bolts.
Carbon ring and driveshaft seal also have nothing to do with alignment.

I guess I don't know what the correct alignment tool is. What I use is a straight stainless steel tube, that fits perfectly in the impeller bearings. it has a smaller inner tube that slides out of the larger one, and this inner tube will fit into the pto splines. So. I remove the pump, take out the impeller shaft, and bolt the pump back up, then slide my tube through the impeller bearings, all the way to the pto splines, then pull out the inner
tube, and see if it will go into the splines in the flywheel. if alignment is correct, the inner tube will slip right into the splines. If not, I shim the engine so it will. It may not be the best way, but it works, and little to none vibration.