2 stroke oil?

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Mixing is not a good idea, you should at least drain yout oil tank completely and there's likely to be a puddle remaining that should be removed by absorbing it with a clean cloth. The in line oil strainer should also be replaced, it a specially made strainer to keep dirt and particles from migrating into the oil pump and clogging the flow, it's not a fuel filter, which is too tight to flow oil. So get the right strainer/filter for the application.

Once the existing oil is out of the system, refill and purge air from the oil lines. Air bubbles can cause a vapor-lock inside the oil pump, resulting in a catastrophic lubricant interruption.
 
Mixing is not a good idea, you should at least drain yout oil tank completely and there's likely to be a puddle remaining that should be removed by absorbing it with a clean cloth. The in line oil strainer should also be replaced, it a specially made strainer to keep dirt and particles from migrating into the oil pump and clogging the flow, it's not a fuel filter, which is too tight to flow oil. So get the right strainer/filter for the application.

Once the existing oil is out of the system, refill and purge air from the oil lines. Air bubbles can cause a vapor-lock inside the oil pump, resulting in a catastrophic lubricant interruption.

I had the oil tank out for the battery conversion and emptied it then but didnt purge the lines of the old oil.
 
BTW thank you everyone for not flaming me on my Lil questions. It's the first boat of my own. I've been around boats all my life but not oil injection. My family has always had big v8 boats. So I'm sure ill have more silly questions
 
When I bought my boat it had the wrong oil in it, what I did was empty the oil tank and the line to the oil strainer, and blew out the strainer backwards to see if any dirt/particles were in it and to remove the old oil. Then I purged the filter backwards using the new oil to flush it out with the good stuff. Put it all back together and purged the air to the end of the filter then attached it to the oil line going to the oil pump without getting air in and went riding. It's been working fine for over a year, and I removed the filter this spring to look down inside and it looked fine, no congealed oil clumps, gravity fed through the filter into a cup and the flow was good.

Just make sure to eliminate air bubbles and try to keep any from forming, there is also a bleed screw on the oil pump, the shop manual has the procedure. Also, you can manually turn the oil pump arm to full open while the engine is idling as a test to see if oil volume increases with pump arm position you'll begin seeing plenty of smoke in the exhaust.

At idle when the pump arm is properly adjusted, there is next to no oil flowing, so you have to manually move the pump arm to get flow.
 
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When I bought my boat it had the wrong oil in it, what I did was empty the oil tank and the line to the oil strainer, and blew out the strainer backwards to see if any dirt/particles were in it and to remove the old oil. Then I purged the filter backwards using the new oil to flush it out with the good stuff. Put it all back together and purged the air to the end of the filter then attached it to the oil line going to the oil pump without getting air in and went riding. It's been working fine for over a year, and I removed the filter this spring to look down inside and it looked fine, no congealed oil clumps, gravity fed through the filter into a cup and the flow was good.

That was basically what I just did, but I replaced the filters as the last change date was unknown to me (the date is now on the filter)
 
When I bought my boat it had the wrong oil in it, what I did was empty the oil tank and the line to the oil strainer, and blew out the strainer backwards to see if any dirt/particles were in it and to remove the old oil. Then I purged the filter backwards using the new oil to flush it out with the good stuff. Put it all back together and purged the air to the end of the filter then attached it to the oil line going to the oil pump without getting air in and went riding. It's been working fine for over a year, and I removed the filter this spring to look down inside and it looked fine, no congealed oil clumps, gravity fed through the filter into a cup and the flow was good.

Just make sure to eliminate air bubbles and try to keep any from forming, there is also a bleed screw on the oil pump, the shop manual has the procedure. Also, you can manually turn the oil pump arm to full open while the engine is idling as a test to see if oil volume increases with pump arm position you'll begin seeing plenty of smoke in the exhaust.

At idle when the pump arm is properly adjusted, there is next to no oil flowing, so you have to manually move the pump arm to get flow.

In my lack of knowledge I cleaned the tank, filled it, and ran it.
 
In my lack of knowledge I cleaned the tank, filled it, and ran it.

If you're swapping back and forth between oil types/brands, I'd at least clean/replace everything upstream of the oil strainer as best I could, including the strainer(critical point IMO), with each change in oil type/brand, the mixed brands of oil can congeal and clog the filter/strainer and starve the oil flow.

Then remove and check the inside of filter/strainer inlet occasionally to make sure no oil clumps are inside, allow gravity flow through the line and filter to confirm good flow into a clean container and you can pour that back into the oil tank if it's still clean and uncontaminated.

The oil when mixed CAN clump, and the clumps WILL clog the oil strainer if this does happen.

When doing all this, make sure to eliminate air bubbles in each piece while you are working to avoid disrupting the oil delivery, air bubbles entering into the oil pump can cause it to cavitate and not pump correctly.

That's about all the advice I have, sorry if I repeated any of it several times.
 
If you're swapping back and forth between oil types/brands, I'd at least clean/replace everything upstream of the oil strainer as best I could, including the strainer(critical point IMO), with each change in oil type/brand, the mixed brands of oil can congeal and clog the filter/strainer and starve the oil flow.

Then remove and check the inside of filter/strainer inlet occasionally to make sure no oil clumps are inside, allow gravity flow through the line and filter to confirm good flow into a clean container and you can pour that back into the oil tank if it's still clean and uncontaminated.

The oil when mixed CAN clump, and the clumps WILL clog the oil strainer if this does happen.

When doing all this, make sure to eliminate air bubbles in each piece while you are working to avoid disrupting the oil delivery, air bubbles entering into the oil pump can cause it to cavitate and not pump correctly.

That's about all the advice I have, sorry if I repeated any of it several times.

Thank you For the info. Guess what I'm doing tonight! Lol
 
Thank you For the info. Guess what I'm doing tonight! Lol

Well, you've got an rotary valve(RV) engine as well so you need to drain the oil out of the RV cavity too, so it doesn't mix with your new oil so you have to drain that cavity from the hose that feeds the RV cavity, it's the one that connects at the lowest point and I believe that's on the carb side of the motor, that hose goes to the bottom of your tank, take it loose there and drain the RV cavity.

So I guess the total answer to your question is no, try not to mix oils, LOL! All this bla-bla-bla stuff to reach the simple answer.
 
CScott89 - I'm in LR myself and would love to see your boat sometime. I own a 99 Speedster in Yellow and am on the West side of town. I know $44 per gallon is a lot for oil (Bradford, I won't go to Ghettoworks either due to the name!), but as another member here once said, saving $20 per 50 gallons of gas is not really worth the risk of harming your engine!
 
CScott89 - I'm in LR myself and would love to see your boat sometime. I own a 99 Speedster in Yellow and am on the West side of town. I know $44 per gallon is a lot for oil (Bradford, I won't go to Ghettoworks either due to the name!), but as another member here once said, saving $20 per 50 gallons of gas is not really worth the risk of harming your engine!

Yeah I am super nervous I just had the left engine replaced and now the right engine is noisy as hell looks like I need another! Lol oh well. Ill have a brand new boat come next season!
 
just remember one thing --- " THE CHEAP WAY OUT IS ALWAYS THE MOST EXPENSIVE" the difference of price of oil is like what 9.00 ????
less than 3 gal of gas ???? and you have a new motor ???? stay with brp
 
just remember one thing --- " THE CHEAP WAY OUT IS ALWAYS THE MOST EXPENSIVE" the difference of price of oil is like what 9.00 ????
less than 3 gal of gas ???? and you have a new motor ???? stay with brp

I am buying A few from Richards but all they have is the XPS-2 syn blend. Will that work with the XPS full syn that I just put in there?
 
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I'd you're getting it for the price I posted that's a good deal. Sometimes it pays to shop on the dark side.:)

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 2
 
I'd you're getting it for the price I posted that's a good deal. Sometimes it pays to shop on the dark side.:)

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 2

I guess thugs don't run 2stroke! Lol 35.99 for XPS-2 syn blend. They have 35gal in stock. Buying then out was an exaggeration! Lol
 
I but mine from a dealer in michigan who sells bulk just bring your own container@26.00 dollars a gallon for the xps full syn.
 
Although it appears some more reasonable prices for 2 stroke oil have been brought to this thread and there probably aren't any bad low ash oils out there anymore, I have to say that I remain unconvinced to make any switch from the XPS-2 that I'm now using. Till death do us part?

I've read up as much as possible on the subject from as many sources as I could locate, the threads and marketing info on the ultralite aircraft sites where they run Rotax motors and the Rotax skidoo sites, it appears for the older non-rave motors there 's a little more "wiggle room" and perhaps even for the smaller rave motors, than for the motor I'm running, so I'm sticking with the XPS-2 for the foreseeable future.

It appears bulk is a good idea if you can locate a local dealer who stocks it, we have about every other type of marine 2 stroke oil in bulk here at the marina except for the XPS-2, we're not a seadoo dealer! :)
 
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