1996 Sea-Doo gtx issue

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dezlinrigges101

dezlinrigges101

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I have noticed you on this forum for sometime. You have always answered many of my questions. I have own Sea-Doo all my life. I just recently pick up a 1996 Sea-Doo gtx last summer. I was able to ride it all last summer with no issue. Then it started to randomly shut off. Before this it had no other issues. This year I tooked it out of winterization and dewinterized it. Installed a new battery and new plugs. Know it acts like it slip when you punch the throttle but if you ease into the throttle it fine. Know this year you can run it 75% throttle with no problem but if you go full throttle 5 secs it will drop from 7000rpms to 4000rpms and throw you forward and sometimes it will just dies. But it starts up two beeps and it's ready to go until you reach full throttle same thing. It will shut the entire ski down after it loose rpms, sometime it will run if you bring it back to half throttle. No problems if you just leave it there. It never used to this at all last year beside randomly cutting out no matter what throttle half or 3/4 or even full. But this year it's full throttle it's know given me problems. I have replaced all the grey lines with 1/4 automotive black line. Rebuilt the carb with mikuni parts. And set both carbs low screw 1 and 1/4 turn out and high screw all the way in at 0. I have new plug and also trimmed the coil back the required amount. I have read all on line it could be this or that. But like I said it ran fine in the beginning and know this. Is this fuel problem at just high speed or electrical problems. People say the dess post or the Rev limiter or the rectifier or there is a leak in the fuel line or a lean seizure at high rpms. Not sure what the problem is
 
If it has not been done full fuel system rebuild with new parts and Genuine Mikuni kits. Sotp running it. What color are your fuel hoses?
 
I just replaced them with black automotive 1/4 lines. There where black hoses on them but where did around 2011 there where no grey tempo lines. And yes used mikuni carb kit.
 
Possible air leak? Have u had the intake off? Check all your hose connections. Make sure your carb base gasket didn’t move when you put the carbs back on. Short of that you did something wrong on your rebuild as above stated.
 
I disconnected the main hose off the baffle that runs to the carb and the baffle hissed with air for 5 to 7 seconds. Like there was alot of air in the tank is that normal? Like i said before this problem was there before the rebuilt. It start with intermittent cut out where it would just shut off. This year is this problem runs great until wot is pushed. Not sure what the problem is. Everytime you push the throttle to the handle bar it drops rpm from 7000 to 4500 sometime you can keep it running and sometimes it will just shut down.
 
dezlinrigges101 said:
I disconnected the main hose off the baffle that runs to the carb and the baffle hissed with air for 5 to 7 seconds.
Click to expand...
Mine did the same thing. I ended up check the vent lines as well. Near as I can figure, the vent lines are designed to allow air into the fuel tank not take the pressure off the tank.
 
So is my vent line working or not? So should there be pressure in the tank like that or no. Will to much air cause cut out at high rpms and shut the system down.
 
I’m pretty sure the vent lets air out not in . You can blow compressed air through them to see if the check valves are stuck
 
no pressure when opening gas tank. Wheres the check valve? I also checked my rectifier both are around 12.9 but did not exceed that. I even reved the motor to 5500 rpm it did not go up. Should the volts go up quickly when maintaining at 5500 rpm or slowly. How long should it take to know the rectifier is good or bad? Both my Sea-Doo gtx 1996 are both at the same volts.
 
Volts should go up. Sounds like your stator is going out. Try cleaning your stator plug. Uses dialectic grease when you put it back together.
 
Usually you will get a high voltage reading when the rectifier is bad like 15 volts. Or the voltage will jump around
 
Put your volt meter on the battery and rev to 4000 rpms. You should get 13-14.5 . Not a perfect test but if it’s lower it’s usually the stator. If it’s higher it’s usually the rectifier. Rectifiers can test good and still be bad
 
Can there be a fuse blown causing this problem? The seadon runs great and never dies on the water. We can be out for hours and never lead to a problem.
 
There are more knowledgeable people on rectifiers than me on here . Let’s wait for one of them to chime in. I own the same Gtx and had to replace the stator and rectifier this year
 
mwat65 said:
I’m pretty sure the vent lets air out not in . You can blow compressed air through them to see if the check valves are stuck
Click to expand...

Mine let's it "in" not "out". Gotta have air entering to replace the fuel being pumped. I thought this was strange as well so I checked everything on my ski. You simple blow air into the fuel return hose and it will come right back out when you stop blowing. This is not noticeable when you remove the fuel cap because of the volume of air released through the large cap hole. Besides...I can't hear crap anyway. LOL
 
Both my cousin and I have been fighting carburetor problems on our skis. We are discussing ways to test the fuel delivery system. I always suspect the fuel pump system. If anything gets under those little mylar discs.... you ain't pumping what you should be pumping hence... high power High RPM will suffer. We both threatened to install an electric fuel pump to eliminate the issue or at least TEST. This is a huge pain in the butt for us so you better believe we'll figure out something that does the job.

I did the little pulse thing by mouth for a few minutes on my fuel line. The fuel moved then settled right back where it was. After I pulled the carbs and replaced the fairly NEW Mylar discs, when I did the pulse by mouth the fuel flowed in the right direction and did not go backwards. I then connected a long hose to a bottle with fuel and the other end to the carb inlet. Turned the engine over and the fuel was drawn up the line quickly.

There is no measurement to determine how much fuel is needed at WOT or flow rate. There should be some type of check for this that is accurate and reliable. I know I will read that these systems work perfectly and no one has ever had a problem with them. I simply say... fuel flow needs to be PROVED and eliminated as the cause.
 
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Another way I test the fuel system is with a hand pump. I pressure up the system through the feed line. I clamp off the hoses close to the fuel tank. I pressure up the system on the reserve and primary fuel side using the fuel valve to switch. I do the lines one at a time so when I switch I can hear the air entering the fuel tank through the open line. I overkill with about 10 pounds on the line. I also draw vacuum as well to see if that holds. I have checked and rechecked everything I can think of on that end. If your ski is falling on it's face.... I'd suspect the mylar valves in the fuel pump on the carb or a leak in the pump air line. Do the test I did and see what happens. Good Luck !!
Don't mistake me for a SeaDoo mechanic. I am not. I struggle with this sons a biches as much as anyone and I am anal so I have to it right.
 
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