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01 XP LTD Gray Fuel Line Replacement advice?

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AirJordan613

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I'm assuming my seadoo from 2001 should have this done? Anyone have any advice or able to point me towards a write up for this? Hopefully the job isn't too bad.. It would be nice to know how much to buy beforehand and what kind of line is best. Thanks.


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If you have one size of line, buy a single roll of 25 foot 1/4 inch fuel line.

If you have two sizes, get 15 foot each of 14 and 5/16 inch.

Replace the line between the carbs as well. Clean the filters inside the carbs with soap and water, NOT carb cleaner as it will destroy them. Remove and clean the fuel selector valve.

Replace a single line at a time and you will have no issue. Some skis have an orifice that is simply pushed into the line. It is on the return side (as in after the engine). This is to help with pulsation of fuel and keep a nice constant flow. If you find it, re-use it. If not,, no issue as most do not even know it exists.

You will need about 25 SS clamps.
 
And I just popped the hood and this project, at least on the XP looks like a nightmare


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It's easy. You actually only need about 15 of 5/16 and 5 of 1/4. It's less than the GTX models.

Are the lines already black? On the 02s they are.

You will have to unbolt the rear shock and flip the seat up to get to the fuel baffle.
 
I know on my 2000 gtx I just pulled the fuel baffle out as a unit, undid the vent line and pulled it all out as a unit. Super easy. You may not be able to do that with the xp. The sqrl has one. Maybe he will chime in

Just do one line at a time if you can. The stock clamps look like a PITA but just take a pair of side cutters, bite into the raised "crimped" portion and twist 1/4 turn, should pop right off. Be carfeful not to break any plastic connectors while doing so. To brake the seal on the line always twist, then pull. (sounds simple but i know many who never think of it and just pull with all their strength and break something.)

Edit: Sqrl beat me too it!
 
It's easy. You actually only need about 15 of 5/16 and 5 of 1/4. It's less than the GTX models.

Are the lines already black? On the 02s they are.

You will have to unbolt the rear shock and flip the seat up to get to the fuel baffle.

My 01 has grey unfortunately. To access the lines on the carb it looks like the large black exhaust pipe needs to be removed?


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if you were closer I'd make a how to video w/your ski.

I've been meaning to, just haven't had time or a ski to work on.

on the XP you unstrap your oil tank ( do not disconnect it)

remove air shoes

remove air box

Remove carb bracket to exhaust bracket

Un bolt carbs

lay them down in the hull so you can remove hoses.

if you do not remove the throttle cable, you wont' have to adjust it later.

there are hoses between the carbs though, so it may be easier to just remove them from the hull.

you'll have 2 hoses from the tank to the fuel selector, one from the selector to the filter, then to the engine.

then you'll have a return line to the tank.

you also have a 4th one, a vent, but don't bother with it from the tank.

there will also be two lines between the carbs. supply and return.

now would also be a great time to clean the filters in the carbs.
 
It would be cool if we were closer, I could probably figure it out with these instructions. I've managed to figure out everything else I've had to do on my skiis and Jeep.


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I just did my 2000 XP limited, it's not that bad. I used tape to mark the three lines connecting to the carbs, top, middle and bottom. I took the seat off to make it easier. Take your time and you won't have a problem. On the fuel baffle I did one at a time so I didn't mix them up. Make sure you clean the internal carb filters like they said. Mine were done last year but I ran the old poop fuel lines and this year there was green fuel gunk in them.
 
I have a JK too ;) 2012 Rubicon on 35s.

Just installed a 8" kicker sub in the factory enclosure on a 300 watt amp too. needed to get that boom boom boom... get that boom boom boom...

if you have never removed your carb bolts from the bracket, they will be a BEACH to get off.

the recommended solution is an impact screwdriver. It's a hand tool from harbor freight for like $5 or $10

the screws are stainless, and go into an aluminum housing (I think) anyway; they stick tight and being Phillips, they strip easily! so be careful!
 
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I waited for a real engine ;) 285 HP Pentastar.

I'm on a 3" BDS lift with Fox Shox & extended brake lines. Wrangler Duratracs for tires.

the 285 HP and 5 speed are a great combo.

rumor is a 2017 with a diesel. However I'm not so sure I like diesel, especially if you'd have to fill it with sheep piss all the time.
 
I waited for a real engine ;) 285 HP Pentastar.

I'm on a 3" BDS lift with Fox Shox & extended brake lines. Wrangler Duratracs for tires.

the 285 HP and 5 speed are a great combo.

rumor is a 2017 with a diesel. However I'm not so sure I like diesel, especially if you'd have to fill it with sheep piss all the time.

I've got the duratracs as well! After driving the pentastar and mine the biggest difference is that transmission. The problem with the 3.8 is that the 4 speed auto never let's it get into its power band without jumping to 4k rpms. Driving a manual with the 3.6 and 3.8 is a surprisingly similar experience. Not the same, the extra power is nice but low end numbers are essentially the same. Unfortunately I have an auto.


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