1996 Sea-Doo GSX questions

[Redracer23]

Hello all,

I have two '96 GSX's. One that I have owned for a couple of years. The price was right and according to the PO just needed the "carbs cleaned". Long story short needed much more and I was able to get it out a few times last year. It ran better and better each time we rode it but still has some issues. It is not in the best shape cosmetically but is not abused as far as hull and top shell goes. I am not sure of the hours or history behind this one as it has had numerous owners. It mostly needs a good de-oxidation removal to look better. The second one I just got earlier this week. This one is in excellent condition with what I think are very low hours at 118. The PO bought it new and took very good care of it. It is all original and starts right up. I has only been on the water once in the last five years but PO kept it serviced regularly just the same. It needs a battery.
My season doesn't start here for a two and a half more months but I want to get some things addressed before then. I have gone though and researched on these forums a lot in the last week or so and there is a wealth of information and smart members here. I am very new to PWC ownership. I do all my own maintenance and repairs on motorcycles, snowmobiles, cars, trucks, boats ect. Both two and four stroke. So here it goes.

Both have the original Tempco gas line that is going to be one of the first things I replace on both. The oil lines on both are not gray Tempco and appear to have been replaced already. Both have 145# compression. I have taken apart both RAVE valves and cleaned them. I have removed the fuel filter cups and cleaned on both. I have siphoned gas from the one I just got and the other was fresh last year and Stabil added. BRP XPS oil has only been ran in both. I have ordered two Mikuni rebuild kits.

Is 1/4" (6mm) the correct size for fuel line replacement?
Is OEM fuel selector valve the best to buy?
What do I need to look for inside the RAVE valves?
Is there a way to tell if the carbon seals are good without being on the water?
Is there suppose to be any space between the wear ring and impeller?
Is there a way to check the pump bearings without running them on the water?
Is there a way to start them out of water kind of the way you do a I/O boat on a garden hose?
What else do I need to check prior to running and finding out the hard way?

Thanks in advance. I am glad to be here. This is a great forum.

 

[mikidymac]

th have the original Tempco gas line that is going to be one of the first things I replace on both.

You don’t need to replace the vent line from the tank but yes all fuel supply lines

The oil lines on both are not gray Tempco and appear to have been replaced already.

The large oil lines don’t need to be replaced but you should replace the inline oil filter. You need to replace the little 3/32” oil lines from the pump to the intake manifold right away.

Both have 145# compression. That’s good compression and nothing to worry about.

I have taken apart both RAVE valves and cleaned them. I have removed the fuel filter cups and cleaned on both.

Make sure you replace the square o-ring on the filter cup.

I have siphoned gas from the one I just got and the other was fresh last year and Stabil added.

Even with stabil the gas is only going to be good for a few months not a year.

BRP XPS oil has only been ran in both. I have ordered two Mikuni rebuild kits.
You also need new needles and seats. Don’t use the springs in the kits.

Is 1/4" (6mm) the correct size for fuel line replacement?
Yes.
Is OEM fuel selector valve the best to buy?
The aftermarket ones are hit and miss so I spend the $25 for new OEM every time.
What do I need to look for inside the RAVE valves?
Leaking of black spooge indicates the rubber bellows should be replaced. The metal guillotine needs to be removed and cleaned.

Is there a way to tell if the carbon seals are good without being on the water?
Make sure it sits square and pull the boot back away from the stainless hat and both surfaces should be smooth and flat.

Is there suppose to be any space between the wear ring and impeller?
More than a dime thickness is too much. Typically old ones will disintegrate after a few rides.

Is there a way to check the pump bearings without running them on the water?
No but you should replace the pump oil as a maintenance item.

Is there a way to start them out of water kind of the way you do a I/O boat on a garden hose?
What else do I need to check prior to running and finding out the hard way?
Yes just start them up. Running out of the water will tell you nothing other than they run. Don’t do it for more than a minute or you’ll burn up the carbon seal even running on the hose so don’t bother with the hose.

Thanks in advance. I am glad to be here. This is a great forum.

Finally check the water valve on the muffler since the inner clamp rusts and can make a hole in the rubber diaphragm.

 

[Redracer23]

Thanks for the reply
That is good to know about the vent line.
I will get new oil filters, square O-rings, and replace the 3/32 line before they are started again.
What springs in the kits do you refer too?
Are new needle and seat not included in the Carburetor kits?
I didn't see any spooge and the guillotine's were carboned up some and I removed it.
The muffler valve clamp under the cap is not rusted. Looks good in there.
The carbon seals are square, smooth and flat. Both look brand new really.
I am planning on changing the pump oil.

I read on here someplace but lost it that there is a way or someone that can restore the plastic around the Handle bars.
What is the best way to clean up the bumpers and rear grab handle?
I have ordered a new Hydro-Turf for my first one. How far into the top shell does the holes for plastic rivets go? What's a good way to plug them?
The VTS on the one i just got works fine. How do I keep it that way?
The VTS on the other I just found has a 7.5 amp fuse blown in the rear black box. What do I need to look for to see why it is blown?

 

[ihammond]

Leaking bellows just above the pump seems to let water into the unit which causes corrosion and failure.
My guess is a corroded magnet which stops position sensor and limit switch working so the motor goes all the way to the end and jams causing the fuse to blow. Could also be a failed motor.
This forum has been helpful in trouble shooting and repairing my units:
https://www.seadooforum.com/threads/anyone-fix-a-vts-gauge-postion-sensor.65027/And this website:
https://www.stevejenkins.com/blog/2...t-working-fix-or-replace-the-vts-motor-cheap/

 

[mikidymac]

The carb needs and seats don’t come with the kits.

Kits and needles are seats have to be only Genuine Mikuni.

The springs in the kits are wrong so don’t use them.

Be careful with the VTS, when they go out and start blowing fuses they are known to fry the MPEM computer in the ski.

The mat rivets are aluminum with rubber caps. Drill them out, you won’t hurt the hull.

Fill the holes with bondoglass available at Walmart. Once it starts to get firm scrape off the excess with a razor blade and you won’t have to do any sanding as long as you do it before it gets completely hard.

 

[Redracer23]

Thank you for the links ihammond. I learned a lot from them and they lead to a lot more.
mikidymac Thanks I will order needle and seats from Mikuni also and not use the springs.
Both machines have the original Bellows with screw style clamps. So I will order OSD up graded kits for both.

After doing a bunch of reading I went out and pulled the VTS motor cover and it was evident the there has been some water inside. The motor was covered in rust and I figured it was shot from water getting inside it. I pulled the motor and put it on the bench and put a battery to it and nothing. So for fun I removed the round cover and to my surprise the seal did its job and the inside was dry. I removed the motor side and it was dry. Not sure why when I put it on the battery it didn't turn but the shaft moved easily. I put it on the battery a second time and it spun in both directions. So I turned my attention to the wiring. There is not 7.5 amp fuse in the holder. With a battery in it and no tether I pushed the VTS up button and heard the relay click. Same with the down button. I tried to put a 7.5 amp fuse in it blew immediately. So I stopped right there to get some more input as to what could be blowing the fuse as I didn't find that in what I read if the motor was ok and the relay was clicking.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Also where are the magnets located? Could these be blowing fuse.
The worm gear was well lubricated and turned freely and moved the nozzle up and down.
Is there a way to isolate or unhook the MPEM and still try to get the VTS to work?

Unless it is something simple and relatively cheap I could live without VTS. I just like things to work as they should.

 

[mikidymac]

It’s the actual VTS module that’s bad and the most common thing to go on these.

You can search TrimFix on google, live without trim or order a guaranteed tested used one from Westside Powersports Seadoo.