'01 GS grey goo comcing from exhaust not staying running

[dkello1]

'01 GS grey goo coming from exhaust not staying running

So heres my issue
i just bought 2 seadoos (01 rx and an 01 gs)

They have been stored for 2 years and not been kicked over since they were winterized in 08.

I replaced the battieries in both of them and i drained the gas out of the RX first and put fresh gas in it with a can of SEAFOAM. After a little persistence and vocal encouragement it kicked over and runs like a top...happy guy.


The GS on the other hand, i got a little ambitious and attempted to start it with the old gas in it. after 2 failed attempts i followed the same procedure that i did on the RX


No bueno.


It kicks over and will run only if i pour carb cleaner or gas right into the carb.

when it does run it has EXCESSIVE smoke, and when i say excessive my rottwieller goes running becuase she thinks its some sort of monster.

It will run while the gas ive poured in the carb is still present, and then will bog out after about 10 seconds even under revs.

Now the kicker..... after repeating the gas in the carb trick for about a total of 1 minute running time GREY SLUDGE starting coming from the exhaust pipe.... semi thick equivilent to old motor oil from a chevy pickup mixed with water.


Any ideas on what this could be?


I cleaned the fuel filter under the console (not dirty) and noticed i still have grey tempo lines... hoping i wont have to replace these right now... i just wanna see it run on its own...


thanks for any ideas or feedback

 

[99SK04GTX]

Those Tempo lines are dissolving

Replace them first. There are small basket/screen filter in the carb that will have to be cleaned.

 

[b15philly]

:agree: Search gray fuel lines. You will also need a carb rebuild and probably a R.A.V.E valve cleaning. You may also experience oil coming out of the exhaust due to you skis sitting for so long oil has seeps into the crank seals. If you wanted to you could do a compression test to see what's going on inside. The compression should be 150 ideally but usually anything above 120 you are good. Make sure there is no more than a 10% difference between each cylinder.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Rotary Seals...

:agree: Search gray fuel lines. You will also need a carb rebuild and probably a R.A.V.E valve cleaning. You may also experience oil coming out of the exhaust due to you skis sitting for so long oil has seeps into the crank seals. If you wanted to you could do a compression test to see what's going on inside. The compression should be 150 ideally but usually anything above 120 you are good. Make sure there is no more than a 10% difference between each cylinder.

:agree:.... This is common when you set these things up for any prolonged period of time. You won't be able to get an accurate compression test with heavy oil either.

If you can, continue to burn it off. Use the bad plugs. You will be replacing those grey Tempo lines before you ride it but I'd go ahead and continue to run this thing in increments, several times a day to see you can burn off the oil and get those rotary seals to re-seat again. If the seals are wasted, you'll have to replace the crankshaft. So, work on this part of your ski first so you don't dump a bunch of money in the fuel system and not be able to ride it.

Watch your oil tank. If the seals are bad, when you blow all the oil from the casing, you should see a drop in oil of your injection tank. After running it for so long and your going to put it up for the night, make a mark on the oil level in your tank. The next day, check that mark to see if it's dropped.
:cheers:

 

[dkello1]

So I pulled the carb off and oddly enough it was clean as a whistle. Good pressure in the carb and al. Compression checked out at 130 and 132 respectively on each cylinder. When I pulled the carb I noticed that there wasn much gas at all inside and the diaphram pump was dry. Hopefully that's mormal. Do I have a gas delivery issue?? Could this be something inside of my fuel tank preventing fuel getting to the carb. I was maybe thinking thimoong that it might be that because if I hold my hand over the carb and crank it it will fire up for a second and then cut off again. Thanks again!

 

[seadoosnipe]

Floatless....

So I pulled the carb off and oddly enough it was clean as a whistle. Good pressure in the carb and al. Compression checked out at 130 and 132 respectively on each cylinder. When I pulled the carb I noticed that there wasn much gas at all inside and the diaphram pump was dry. Hopefully that's mormal. Do I have a gas delivery issue?? Could this be something inside of my fuel tank preventing fuel getting to the carb. I was maybe thinking thimoong that it might be that because if I hold my hand over the carb and crank it it will fire up for a second and then cut off again. Thanks again!

These Mikuni carbs used on the Rotax motors are floatless carbs. You should not have a lot of gas stored in them but you should have some.

If you had a dry diaphragm and no gas leak out when you pulled the diaphragm off, then you probably have a problem in the fuel circuit.

You have the Tempo lines. You'll need to remove them and replace. Unless you know what your looking for, you may not see the damage being caused. The inside of the gas line dissolves and travels with the fuel. When it finds a dead area of circulation, it solidifies. This can get into your springs, needle valve and seat, check valve and your 3 way gas control valve.

If you are just wanting to run the motor without replacing all the fuel lines for the moment, you can get about 6 feet of 1/4" fuel line. Run a line from the fuel tank to the inlet of the MAG carb. Both carbs will have to be cleaned. You'll need to open and remove the white mesh strainer inside each carb and blow through it. You'll need to remove the diaphragm. Once you do, you'll see the block assembly. Remove the two screws and gently remove this piece. On the pack side,you'll see a thin piece of plastic. That's a check valve. You should also see your jets now. Take some carb cleaner with that red tip and spray through the holes. Look inside the carb when you do this to ensure you see the cleaner coming out from the ports. Make sure you clean your needle valve and seat. The lever attaching to the needle valve should be flush to the base of the carb body.

On the MAG carb, you'll see a short piece of hose that attaches to the motor. That's the pulse line. It drives the fuel pump with a reciprocating pulse to a diaphragm under the plate that hose is attached to. This will have to be removed, inspected and cleaned. If the diaphragm is leaking by, cracked or busted, you'll need to get a carb rebuild kit.

Also, you said if you put your hands over the carbs, you could get a start. For the carbs to work, you have got to have the flame arrestor on. This is what creates resistance, along with the manifold pressure created by the compression of the engine, to get the gas to the motor. So, if you don't have the flame arrestor on, you'll never get fuel to the motor.

So, there's a little bit for you to work with..........let us know what you find out!....:cheers:

 

[dkello1]

so i know this may seem like a silly question, but my GS only has ONE carb not two. so theoretically i should be able to connect that 6 foot of fuel line over to the inlet port of the carb and if it kicks over and runs i should be able to find a fault in the fuel line somewhere...correct? and if the problem is not solved by this where do i proceed next?

 

[seadoosnipe]

Specs...

Sorry, I didn't look the specs up on our ski. There aren't as many single carb motors left now days,... I should have looked your specs up.

The idea is the same from what I said in the upper post, just applied to one carb instead of two.

You said the diaphragm chamber was dry. You've got more than a problem with the fuel line. I was looking to eleminate the 20 or so foot of fuel hose to try and start trouble shooting.

You can bring that hose in off the on or reserve nipple of the fuel baffle but you still need to go through your carb to find out what the problem is with the needle and seat or why it's not getting fuel to that back side......

 

[dkello1]

All figured out!!!

Ok so the smoke issue -
that was due to no gas getting to carb but the pulse line was more than doing its part along with the oil valve so it was just getting excess oil

The fuel issue.... not the tempo lines OR the carb

actually ended up being a badly corroded fuel valve....so bad infact that my vice grips ended up breaking the metal when i went to muscle it open..

i did a quick check by attaching my inlet to the on part of my fuel resevoir and then BOOM!!!!


one second start didnt have to choke it or anything... and hey check it out, didnt even have to curse at it =)

its a happy day in snowy chesapeake today =)


thanks again SNIPE for all of your help, your definitely a BIG part of this sites assistance for its members.

you guys have a great one and good luck getting out in the next few months!

 

[seadoosnipe]

Tempo lines...

Ok so the smoke issue -
that was due to no gas getting to carb but the pulse line was more than doing its part along with the oil valve so it was just getting excess oil

The fuel issue.... not the tempo lines OR the carb

actually ended up being a badly corroded fuel valve....so bad infact that my vice grips ended up breaking the metal when i went to muscle it open..

i did a quick check by attaching my inlet to the on part of my fuel resevoir and then BOOM!!!!


one second start didnt have to choke it or anything... and hey check it out, didnt even have to curse at it =)

its a happy day in snowy chesapeake today =)


thanks again SNIPE for all of your help, your definitely a BIG part of this sites assistance for its members.

you guys have a great one and good luck getting out in the next few months!

The Tempo lines have to go. You'll need to get about 25 feet of line and replace all of them. If by some chance, they aren't having any affect on your fuel circuit yet, they will soon, when you ride it regularly. You've got to change them.

Look at the bottom of this post. You'll see a link in my signature to "snipes korner". I have some pix of them split open for you to see what happens to them on the insde. Take a peak. This is happening to your fuel lines as we speak...........:cheers:

 

[dkello1]

yeah, i decided to do the prudent thing and since i was so quick to spot the problem so early i went ahead and replaced them while i had my head in there so i wasnt wasting a bunch of time. it worked out really well.. thanks again