‘95 XP Hose Questions

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chrismueller04

New Member
Howdy, I posted on this thread a few years ago when I came across a 1995 seadoo xp 717, for only like $100 or something super cheap. I was only a Jr in highschool and athletics took my budget for the pwc away(it needed lots of tlc but it had sat for 3 or 4 years already). Just now getting back around to it, as I just finished my freshman year of college up. I replaced the fuel selector, hoses, spark plugs, and rebuilt the carbs with Mikuni kits. Before I start bolting things down again, I noticed there looked like vacuum lines that had either been pulled off or ripped off or just feel off. I’m not even sure if that’s what these are but I feel like they need a hose connecting to somewhere on the block. there’s 3 of the attachments from what I could see. They are under where the carbs are, and I’m just unsure of what they do and if they need something.
 

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There are supposed to be oil lines connected to those fittings for the oil injection system. There are supposed to be 2 hoses that come from the oil pump (under the carbs) and connect to the rotary valve cover. Do not run it without putting this back or your project will be very short lived.
 
chrismueller04 said:
Howdy, I posted on this thread a few years ago when I came across a 1995 seadoo xp 717, for only like $100 or something super cheap. I was only a Jr in highschool and athletics took my budget for the pwc away(it needed lots of tlc but it had sat for 3 or 4 years already). Just now getting back around to it, as I just finished my freshman year of college up. I replaced the fuel selector, hoses, spark plugs, and rebuilt the carbs with Mikuni kits. Before I start bolting things down again, I noticed there looked like vacuum lines that had either been pulled off or ripped off or just feel off. I’m not even sure if that’s what these are but I feel like they need a hose connecting to somewhere on the block. there’s 3 of the attachments from what I could see. They are under where the carbs are, and I’m just unsure of what they do and if they need something.
Click to expand...
87B5A247-063C-4180-89E5-2D69C107232F.jpegPretty sure those are your small oil lines
 
Pretty sure they just go from the oil pump to the brass nipples on the rotary valve cover, they are only like 4 inches or so long, just push them on and use good high quality zip ties to hold them in place, they are 3/32 oil line, I prefer to buy this line direct from BRP. They fit very tight over the brass nipples so it works best to start them kind of on an angle, I have heated the ends up with a hair dryer but only the very end and used needle nose pliers to help get them on.
 
I just sent you a link for the 1995 XP parts catalog from seadoomanuals.net. You can also get a shop manual there also.
 
Another line that I’m unsure of is there is 2 ft long hose that looks like water outlet on the front right of the of the ski. It looks like at one point it has a clamp on the loose hebd but I don’t know for sure, I will take pictures when I get home. I appreciate all the help!
 
chrismueller04 said:
Another line that I’m unsure of is there is 2 ft long hose that looks like water outlet on the front right of the of the ski. It looks like at one point it has a clamp on the loose hebd but I don’t know for sure, I will take pictures when I get home. I appreciate all the help!
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I just kinda wrapped it upon itself but I feel like this line has a purpose
 
Here is is the best that I can show it
 

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chrismueller04 said:
Appreciate the photo like I said, but I’m really struggling to get the 3/32 line on. There’s what appears to by like a wing shaped clamp thing and I cannot stretch this hose for the life of me
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Turns out it was the oem clamp and the line maybe just degraded over time, dunno. I cleaned it up and got the new ones on
 
I am going to keep posting here as I make progress. So far it is so good, it ran yesterday! I put the carbs on, and squirted some gas down in there, and after a few tries it ran under its own power. I am worried though about the small oil lines possibly not delivering oil through the system, as they both are not flowing all the way through yet. I don’t think I have adjusted the oil delivery yet to where it should be, so I am going to do that now. I think I’m going to pull the whole assembly out of the hill just so I can see what I’m doing. I’ll figure that out when I get there. As soon as I see oil flowing, I will take it outside and connect the hose and see if she runs on her own for more than 15 seconds. So far so good, I’m really damn proud cus I have zero knowledge of these 2 strokes and turning a wrench in general, this is my very first mechanical project!
 
If you run it even for a short time with no oil going through those small oil lines it is going to severely damage the engine, when it starts reach down and pull the oil lever to full open and the small oil lines should fill up. I have been told countless times it’s not required but I always run a 50 to 1 premix with the oil injection until I’m sure the oil injection is working properly
 
These take basically no oil at idle with no load.
To fill the lines have it idle and hold the oil pump arm wide open. Within a few seconds you will see the oil pumping into the lines and once it reaches the intake manifold you are done.

There is no reason to connect it to the hose as you are not going to run it for any length of time. Even with the hose you only get a minute or two before the driveshaft seal gets hot.

I will never understand everyone's fascination with running them on the hose. It is only there to flush debris from the cooling system.
 
Probably worried about the Carbon Seal overheating, but the Hose Water can't reach the Carbon Seal as the Water can only come thru the Pump Inlet?
 
JC-SUPERJET said:
Probably worried about the Carbon Seal overheating, but the Hose Water can't reach the Carbon Seal as the Water can only come thru the Pump Inlet?
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Correct, the carbon seal is dry out of the water and gets really hot, really quick.
The older carrier bearing and seal setup is better but can still get hot.
 
i got some oil to finally poke it’s way thru the lines, but for the side nearest to the front of the PWC, it is sort of air bubbly, not sure if that is okay or not, so I redid my zip tie a bit tighter and another one just to be safe. I also don’t think it is getting fuel, yesterday when it felt like it ran on its own I still added some gas directly in there. I can feel a vacuum in the line to the carbs but I’m not getting any gas thru. I took the fuel filter apart and there was fuel in it, but I’m not getting any to the carbs. Like I said, I feel it pulling and the selector is the right way but I don’t know what is going on now. I checked the diagrams and all the hoses are routed properly, just not getting it to the carbs.
 
mikidymac said:
Correct, the carbon seal is dry out of the water and gets really hot, really quick.
The older carrier bearing and seal setup is better but can still get hot.
Click to expand...
mikidymac said:
These take basically no oil at idle with no load.
To fill the lines have it idle and hold the oil pump arm wide open. Within a few seconds you will see the oil pumping into the lines and once it reaches the intake manifold you are done.

There is no reason to connect it to the hose as you are not going to run it for any length of time. Even with the hose you only get a minute or two before the driveshaft seal gets hot.

I will never understand everyone's fascination with running them on the hose. It is only there to flush debris from the cooling system.
Click to expand...
Gotcha, lines are filled, and I’ll keep that in mind (about the hose). I just posted an update abt it. Gotta go to work though and I’ll get back to it around 8 pm tonight
 
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