XPL Coffman build - 7760 rpm

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seadooaddiction

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Took my fresh build out for a real test today after breaking in the motor. The boat ran a GPS speed of 64 mph while turning 7700+ rpm. It tops out around 7760 while still being relatively rich. (Creeps up from 7600 rpm to max revs) I was not expecting such a high number. I am running a 12 vein skat pump with a 16/23 that's been turned down on the trailing edge a cpl degrees. I have 86/89 nozzle ring combination and a re- flashed single coil mpem tuned for the Coffman. I know the Coffman likes the 7400 rpm range but always thought it liked a smaller prop like 14/19. Just want to get some additional input here as this is my first aftermarket pipe install. Thanks!
 
Quite the impressive machine. my bone stock XP 951 runs 59.2 MPH on a GPS though... for 700 more RPM and that pump I thought you'd be moving quicker... or are most of the gains in the 0-30 area?

Before anyone questions my top speed, I'm looking for my video that has a GPS logger. I put a GPS speedo on my 02 GTX, because the paddle wheel died. that one tops at 58 MPH.

Can you get us some photos of the exhaust/pump/etc? I believe you have to remove the oil tank to run that pipe?

Ok, I forgot, I run a Concord 15/20, so it's 99.9% stock lol.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnOJm4uzi_Q
 
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That is a lot of RPM's to be turning. Here is what Harry at Group K says about it so make sure you have a good crank.

Lower End - The crank bearings on the 951 engines have ball bearing separators (aka races) that are made from a Teflon plastic. With heavy high-rpm use, it can happen that these plastic separators break apart and exit an otherwise “good running” engine. If this happens, the crankshaft will eventually begin to eccentrically “run out” for lack of uniform support. This “run out” can cause the engine to slow, vibrate, air-leak, and eventually quit. Since we have seen these bearing cages fail over a wide range of usage hours, so it is impossible to accurately assess their life span. For this reason, we consider the installation of steel caged crank bearings to be absolutely mandatory for any Hammer Kit 951, and highly recommended for all others.

The stock 951 connecting rods are plenty strong enough to contend with the rpms and loads of the Swift Kit and Sleeper Kit. These two kits further benefit the lower end by virtue of the water ingestion protection offered by the stock ‘99 flame arrestor. However the rpms and horsepower loads of the Hammer Kit are enough to represent a reliability risk related to the stock connecting rods. To deal with this reliability problem, crank builders have retro fitted high rpm 951 cranks with Honda 500 motocrosser connecting rods (Please note: we don’t get these parts or do the work, so please don’t call us for specifics on this procedure). Since the Honda rods are slightly shorter than the stock 951 rods, the top crankcase must be machined to assure correct cylinder deck height. Group K will perform this machining operation. While there are some 951 owners that swear they have had no crank difficulties on their 7200+ rpm engines, we still consider this connecting rod/front bearing upgrade to be mandatory for any high rpm 951 platform.
 
Right now I am running modified buckshots with the updated n&s so I have the notorious low end bog or hesitation of the line. But once i get past that innitial bog, the ski pulls incredibly hard through all the way through the mid range to the top end. So i'd say most of the performance gain is right off the corners.

Right! The fact that its turning so many more RPMS but not moving that much faster makes me think I need to get more pitch on the prop. The part thats questionable is I have been told to run tiny props with the coffman pipe in order to avoid loading the motor too much and prevent detonation. I am already running a relatively large prop as it is. The next tweak up is essentially a stock 16/23. (whereas i have been told to run as low as a 13/19 or 14/19 with the coffman, although that was in a stock pump)

And yes i will surely post some pictures of the engine compartment. I am also running pre-mix so i eliminated the oil tank and mounted my dual feed external fuel pump in that location in stead. (no more blown top end on those stupid oil injection pumps!!!)
 
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Nice and clean install! I can't believe how much smaller that pipe is than the stock monster.
 
That is a lot of RPM's to be turning. Here is what Harry at Group K says about it so make sure you have a good crank.

Lower End - The crank bearings on the 951 engines have ball bearing separators (aka races) that are made from a Teflon plastic. With heavy high-rpm use, it can happen that these plastic separators break apart and exit an otherwise “good running” engine. If this happens, the crankshaft will eventually begin to eccentrically “run out” for lack of uniform support. This “run out” can cause the engine to slow, vibrate, air-leak, and eventually quit. Since we have seen these bearing cages fail over a wide range of usage hours, so it is impossible to accurately assess their life span. For this reason, we consider the installation of steel caged crank bearings to be absolutely mandatory for any Hammer Kit 951, and highly recommended for all others.

The stock 951 connecting rods are plenty strong enough to contend with the rpms and loads of the Swift Kit and Sleeper Kit. These two kits further benefit the lower end by virtue of the water ingestion protection offered by the stock ‘99 flame arrestor. However the rpms and horsepower loads of the Hammer Kit are enough to represent a reliability risk related to the stock connecting rods. To deal with this reliability problem, crank builders have retro fitted high rpm 951 cranks with Honda 500 motocrosser connecting rods (Please note: we don’t get these parts or do the work, so please don’t call us for specifics on this procedure). Since the Honda rods are slightly shorter than the stock 951 rods, the top crankcase must be machined to assure correct cylinder deck height. Group K will perform this machining operation. While there are some 951 owners that swear they have had no crank difficulties on their 7200+ rpm engines, we still consider this connecting rod/front bearing upgrade to be mandatory for any high rpm 951 platform.

as far as overall longevity of the motor, this is not a primary concern. I knew very well that these mods will necessitate significant overhauls and/or replacements to maintain the engine's performance. Ill be happy if i last 1 season.
 
Nice and clean install! I can't believe how much smaller that pipe is than the stock monster.

Thanks for the kind words!!

the thing is actually massive in some respects haha. but a hell of a lot lighter. its so large, or tall for that matter, that you can no longer re-install the tray compartment under the hood for storage without serious clearance modification to the tray... (hence the fire extinguisher relocation)
 
Decided i would ride this evening instead of being lazy.... so i swapped out the 86/89 ring combo I was running and threw in an 82/85 combo i had laying around and am about to go hit the river. Not expecting significant differences but i sure am interested to so the result. Will update with the events later this evening.
 
So today's results:
Ski ran a top speed of 66 mph at 7500 rpm. Im thinking I've hit that butter zone. Initially ran 7450, on first real pull, a 300 rpm drop! It was creeping up on rpm on the top end so I turned the high speed screw in 1/8 of a turn and got and seemed to like that better. Straight to 7500 rpm essentially and stays there. Cant complain about that.

So net results are nearly a 300 rpm decrease and a pick up of 2 mile and hr with the 82/85 combo.
 
Posted an update about this in a different thread but figured id place it in more of a correct spot.

Had a little port matching done on cylinders and bumped the rpms up another 150 -200 rpms. Sourced a 16/23 to bring them back down. New numbers are 7500 rpm @ 67 mph. No noticeable loss in acceleration. Probably going to have impeller tweaked slightly to pull down to 7400 rpm. Hopefully will see 68 mph!
 
I like that pto. On mine they turned it down to a smaller diameter. Now I have no sure way to set the timing.
 
This was actually the set. They weren't cheap. I can't remember the number but I wanna say anywhere from $200- $250 shipped for the pair.

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