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X4 plastic hood repair

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Rosie2514

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Long story short, I have a single guage hood that i plan on painting for my Xp project. Well the hood was already repainted and the previous painter painted over an existing decal on the hood so the outline of the decal was visible. Attempting to get the decal out of the picture I took my decal removal wheel to it and while it did get the entire decal off, it also melted a couple of minor spots in the hood. These holes are not deep but after Sanding down the rest of the hood they obviously need to be filled in to be sanded down even. Any idea on what to use to fill these spots that is sandable? Any help appreciated
 
-Possibly can be filled in with melted plastic tie wrap using one of the solder guns with tip for "plastic welding"

-Kind of reminded me of the repair these guys go on the fuel tank sender after cutting it open to repair open circuit fuse, then plastic welding it shut.

-Rob
 
Dang I never thought about that! I did the fuel baffle repair so I know what your talking about. I just wonder how that will sand down.
 
Do you have an extra hood to do a test run on for the plastic of the tie wrap adhering and sanding results?

Maybe melt a bit on the back side or an area unseen once assembled and see what happens.

Rob

Dang I never thought about that! I did the fuel baffle repair so I know what your talking about. I just wonder how that will sand down.
 
2 part plastic epoxy with mechanical attachment. Drill holes through it and spread epoxy over the holes letting it run through the back. Then epoxy that on the back side. Normally you wouldn't have to do all that but the type of plastic it is doesn't bond well chemically.
 
Eastwood.com sells a hot staple plastic repair gun, not sure how well that would work. It's also very pricey. Harbor has a hot air plastic welder too.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the reply guys. Dang sounds like this is gonna be a Pain! I was thinking maybe some sort of bondo or resin might work?
 
How big are the areas? Auto body repair products that are painted over should work well. Buy the plastic applicator paddles. In the auto body section. Small area, spot putty, carefully sanded with 400 grit wet / dry paper. Prime it and wet sand. Feather it into surrounding area. Larger areas, bondo. It's meant for irregular areas. It's not a stuctural repair. You can use spot putty to fix areas at edges and pits in the material. Layers of primer wet sand down and feathered into surround area blends it in. Once you see no defects prime the whole thing and wet sand down smooth with 400 grit wet / dry paper. Any areas that look rough shoot with primer and wet sand down. Got question just ask. I am a painter of a lot of stuff for A LONG TIME. Remember you need at least 70 degrees to have the stuff to work right.
 
You need to mask off the areas around repair area if you leave hood on ski. It's easier to take it off and work on it.
 
Thanks for the reply!

The hood is off the ski, the areas are more-less just minor spots in the plastic. Maybe 1in diameter on the biggest spot and just really small knicks in others.
 
I feel bad cause you paid me well for that hood. I'll give you full credit against a yellow one from a XP800 I have in the classified section if you want but you can't paint it, lol. Seriously though they are like puppies that have to go to good homes.
 
I feel bad cause you paid me well for that hood. I'll give you full credit against a yellow one from a XP800 I have in the classified section if you want but you can't paint it, lol. Seriously though they are like puppies that have to go to good homes.

I'd take that deal. I had to buy a green one and paint it yellow this summer. It looks good, but I'd prefer it if it was originally yellow.
 
What did you use to paint it? meaning, what brand, etc.? thinking of going the wipe-new method, or just painting it...either same or different color..
 
Not in the painting time yet. I saw a good thread on painting plastic on another forum and gonna try to follow that closely.
 
Did you ever get around to painting that hood?
Still wondering what paint you'd use for the hood. [MENTION=69623]Mickirig1[/MENTION] , any ideas on the type of paint for the plastic hood?
and while we are at it, what about paint for the handlebar cover? same as hood?
 
Visit your local autobody supply store if you want to use real paint. Your going to need a flex agent like they use when painting urethane bumper covers on cars. Or just hit it with Krylon Fusion paint, that stuff is sick. The bumpers and rub rail on my HX were painted with that, I could twist the front bumper like a corkscrew and it didn't show any signs of cracking or anything. I think Spim's buddy painted one of his with rattle can and he said it turned out good. Not sure if this was rattle can or not. [MENTION=29781]Spimothy Leary[/MENTION] could answer that.

1.jpg
 
Did you ever get around to painting that hood?
Still wondering what paint you'd use for the hood. [MENTION=69623]Mickirig1[/MENTION] , any ideas on the type of paint for the plastic hood?
and while we are at it, what about paint for the handlebar cover? same as hood?

Still in progress!
Although i know i could cut my losses and move on . I am gonna stick with this hood because it will bug me endless if i cant get it looking good. Here is a pic that pretty much shows the extent of damage. anywhere where there is pink, there was hood material missing. you can see the drill holes throughout the pink so that the plastic bondo could be on both sides to "lock it in".


It's getting very close to paint time. As of now, the hood has pentip size holes visibles and other various scratches. Gonna tape if off and hit it with some primer filler one more time before final sand and paint.





Also, when i first bought the ski I painted the handlebar cover with Krylon Fusion. It came out good , but after a couple of rides it was starting to chip off. I painted a seat on a beater ski i sold this summer using SEM VINYL PREP and SEM MARINE COAT PURPLE. And i sh*t you not , i could dig my fingernails as hard as possible and still not budge that paint. I will be using that on my handlebar cover after this is done.
 
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I am gonna prep the paint on this go around. I'm not saying you have to, but on the seat it seemed to work great! And yes SEM is the brand. They are pricey but quality.
 
I am the Pro with good Rattle Can Paint. The big thing is to have it totally clean and dust free. Mask off any area that can get over spray, or dusting. Krylon / Rustoluim is good stuff. I have also shot a bunch of .99c Walmart paint too. Thin coats at a time. Don't push your luck or you get sags and runs. Follow directions on can. When you can recoat, dry to touch, total dry time and temp for painting. You can shoot clear over it when you have the look / gloss you want. Stay within the same paint type. Watch the recoat time or you may lift or sag the base coat. You need good lighting too, turning the work into the good light is a good thing. You screw up with sags or runs. Let it totally dry, rub out the bad area with rubbing compound, clean the dust off. And reshoot it.
 
Visit your local autobody supply store if you want to use real paint. Your going to need a flex agent like they use when painting urethane bumper covers on cars. Or just hit it with Krylon Fusion paint, that stuff is sick. The bumpers and rub rail on my HX were painted with that, I could twist the front bumper like a corkscrew and it didn't show any signs of cracking or anything. I think Spim's buddy painted one of his with rattle can and he said it turned out good. Not sure if this was rattle can or not. [MENTION=29781]Spimothy Leary[/MENTION] could answer that.

1.jpg

yes this was rattle can work.
 
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