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WINTERIZING your PWC, ASK QUESTIONS HERE

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damn Lou-cifer, DAS NYYCE! clean clean clean motor and hull..makin me jealous again... although i did notice lou, you've got the same motor as me right? it looks like in the pic that the sleeve between the tuner pipe and water box on your ski look ALOT longer than mine..why would that be? looks like its about double the length of mine...im likin that bilgeeey by the way....and in the first pic, at the top right, what is that red thing on top of your exhaust..looks like a valve or a lever? mine doesnt have that
 
It's my 96GTI, my wife usually rides it. I call it "the Buick", it's probably about 2' longer than your ski, it has the 720 motor, very similar to yours. It's a full 3 seater, big for a 2-stroke. I went ahead and winterized this ski, gonna ride the others for a couple more weeks. The ski has always been kept in a garage, and undercover when at the lake.

I think the red thing is a bilge pump, I added that.

I noticed that your ski has a KY registration, what's the deal?

Lou
 
yea, still workin out the kinks before i register it...title is up in Sarasota with the car title, boat title, truck title ,and plate off my old trailer..

So, since the ski is longer, they make that tube longer...got it...
oh, also, theres a guy in another thread askin about 951 compression...i remember you said theres a certain model where the compression range should be lower, like in the 120's or something? what model was that, and what was the range again? dont wanna give the guy wrong info.
 
yea, still workin out the kinks before i register it...title is up in Sarasota with the car title, boat title, truck title ,and plate off my old trailer..

So, since the ski is longer, they make that tube longer...got it...
oh, also, theres a guy in another thread askin about 951 compression...i remember you said theres a certain model where the compression range should be lower, like in the 120's or something? what model was that, and what was the range again? dont wanna give the guy wrong info.

I'm really not that knowledgeable on a 951, pretty sure the compression on a fresh rebuild should be around 125-135psi, probably around 105-110 you're looking at a top end rebuild.

Lou
 
Ok thanks!! Good info
P.s what size is that hose is that? (with using that hose do you dump the quart in when its running and then quickly put the hose on or dump while its not and then hook the hose up and start it?)
Thanks

Got the vinyl hose at Lowe's it's 1/2" I.D. I use a small hand pump, pump it into the rear outlets first, connect the hose the pump it into the front, until you don't see any air bubbles.

Lou
 
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reminds me of my motor when i first got my ski lou ... hardly looks like that now it needs a good cleaning lol ....

ive been reading up on some webpages and they dont discuss running antifreeze through the motor .... since this will be my first year winterizing my ski this is what ive been told to do ... fill the tank, add stabilizer, start the motor, fogg the carbs untill the motor dies, then take the plugs out and fog the cylinders crank it a couple times and your done ? now i KNOW im missing something because it cant be that easy, can anyone fill me in please
 
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I use RV or plumbing antifreeze in the toilet at my cottage. I pump out all the water then add the antifreeze. When I go to the cottage in the middle of the winter the plumbing antifreeze is no longer a liquid. It is frozen solid!

I would not trust it in my Seadoo. Buy a good quality premixed automotive antifreeze and have the peace of mind.

Dave p
 
Another reason to use automotive antifreeze is the RV plumbing antifreeze doesn't have rust or corrosion inhibitors.

Lou
 
I just went with what seadoo sold me, the RV marine stuff. But I didn't leave it in the engine, it has run thru it and I ran it while pouring it in. What is left in there shouldn't be much and should be the antifreeze, so here's hoping to no cracking! lol.
 
I just went with what seadoo sold me, the RV marine stuff. But I didn't leave it in the engine, it has run thru it and I ran it while pouring it in. What is left in there shouldn't be much and should be the antifreeze, so here's hoping to no cracking! lol.

I just did that too(with car antifreeze).... Now my question do I need to leave it in the engine if so How do i do it? All the antifreeze I ran through came out the exhaust like it should I ran a half a gallon through it quarter of it while running and other half when I got done foging it.
 
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If you ran it like you described you should be fine. Imo and from talking to seadoo rep. You don't need to leave it in it.
Personally i hope those running car antifreeze have a big catch can for when it comes out. Horrible for environment when you can just use the marine stuff. Even tho i know there are mixed feelings over it.
 
Ok First thank you SeaDooLou for starting this page.
I have a 96 XP and a 96 GSX i live in Connecticut the local shops want $200 plus to winterize just one seadoo, way to much money. So i want to learn to do it myself. can you start from the beginning and list the steps on how to do this ? Thank you jack
 
Winterized my ski today ('99 GSX Limited with 951). When I put the anti-freeze in it, I didn't clamp the drain hose. Will the anti-freeze get everywhere it should or should I go back and clamp it and pour more in? I just wonder if there are some areas that may not get any anti-freeze as it may have just poured through. Thanks
 
Ok First thank you SeaDooLou for starting this page.
I have a 96 XP and a 96 GSX i live in Connecticut the local shops want $200 plus to winterize just one seadoo, way to much money. So i want to learn to do it myself. can you start from the beginning and list the steps on how to do this ? Thank you jack

Go through and read each page of this thread, you should get the idea by then and if you still have questions ask....
 
I've got a quick question... We have always ran the fuel out of our skis and boats at the end of the year. I see people here are saying to top of the tank to prevent condensation in the tank over the winter which makes sense. Should I fill up my tank and add some fuel stabilizer or will I be OK leaving it empty like it is now?

Well should I go ahead and top her off? I'm planning on building a stand with wheels to put her away in the garage for the winter this weekend.
 
I did SPX thanks i read all the post there seems to be a little bit of confusion on WINTERIZING
do i run the engine for a few seconds without a water hookup to remove as much water as possible?
do i remove the waterbox/muffler and dump the standing water out ?
do i pump the antifreeze through the block in a continuos lupe (in the block out the muffler back in the block) then tie up the line to keep the antifreeze in the block?
spray fogger in the carbs, engine running or not ?
remove plugs spray fogger, run engine?
top off tank add fuel stablize,r run engine?
I also thought i read in a post change oil ??
times are tough i don't want to pay my local shop $400 then come spring i take my Seadoos out only to find i screwed up and now a have two cracked blocks
i did read the manuals i just like to be sure.
how can a shop charge so much for what seems like it would cost $20 and maybe an hour of time?
Thank you all for your time and help Jack
 
Mildew on marine upholstery is one of my worst nightmares!

Before I cover, I use Vaseline Petroleum Jelly on my vinyl & gauges & Rubber. Later when I uncover,
rag it off, spray some Hawiaan Tropic Dark and wipe in.

If you do nothing, you will be looking at most of these:
Simple Green
mr clean majic eraser
StarBrite Mildew Stain Remover
Gunk orange waterless hand cleaner
Greased Lightning Marine Formula
50/50 mix of bleach and warm water
Ammonia and water
Castrol super clean
"black streak cleaner" for RV's
Meguire's Mirror Glaze, then 303 aerospace protectant
MOLDZYME (Zymocat)
trisodiumphosphate
Bytrol
powdered Tide w/bleach
Comet
Tilex Mildew Root Penetrator & Remover

Bleach and ammonia are hard on vinyl. Ask any marine upholsterer.
Bleach and Ammonia do not make a good mix!!

Bills86e
 
IMG_0255.jpg

So Bill, what works the best. My neighbors handlebar cover looks like black paint imbedded in the yellow vinyl.
 
http://youtu.be/oDNCW0FabP0

does this video basically sum it up ?

im just a little bit stumped on the antifreeze ...

how do i get it flowing through the block ? how much do i put in ? do i do the antifreeze before or after i fog the carbs to a stall ?
 
To not let them get that way, in my opinion. I spent an hour tonight working on same, on my 1050's yellow seat. Even tried Zippo fluid.

Bottom line - Tilex Mildew Root Penetrator & Remover

Bills86e
 
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Yeah I hear ya. He doesn't have a cover so it sits out all summer and he shrink wraps it over the winter on the hoist.

Tilex, I'll mention it to him.

Thanks
 
View attachment 10049

So Bill, what works the best. My neighbors handlebar cover looks like black paint imbedded in the yellow vinyl.

Here's what I would do get one of these for the handle bar cover, I've got one on my 96XP and it looks great. And get some Krylon Fusion plastic paint. Spray paint the gauge cover, the yellow Krylon is a real close match. Get Dr Honda to make a new GTI graphic, for the gauge cover.

The handlebar is just too far gone to clean up and it's also faded.

http://www.watercraftsuperstore.net...arch_Begin_Only=&sort=&range_low=&range_high=

Lou
 
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http://youtu.be/oDNCW0FabP0

does this video basically sum it up ?

im just a little bit stumped on the antifreeze ...

how do i get it flowing through the block ? how much do i put in ? do i do the antifreeze before or after i fog the carbs to a stall ?

Everything but the antifreeze.
What I did 787 (Wash/rinse outside and inside of hull with clean water)
1) figure out how much gas in the tank, pour in correct mix of stab. into tank
2) run engine 5 min on hose (which also flushes clean water thru the system = good)
3) take off silencer cover
4) disconnect hose at the top right side of the block where the attachment for the flushing hose would be (c clamp to take off from the T flush connector)
5) put a funnel into the top of this hose
6) start engine
7) (Now I did this with my brother to make it easier) spray fogging oil into arrestor, while another person is pouring antifreeze into the funnel. It will start coming out the back. I did the whole 4 litters, maybe over kill, but whatever.
8) when I noticed the antifreeze almost out, I sprayed even more fogging oil to where the engine almost stops running.
9) antifreeze runs out, stop fogging and turn off engine
10) pull plugs, spray in each cylinder, put plugs back in but no wires attached (they should be on ground)
11) turn engine over a couple of times
12) spray anti-corrosion (seadoo spary) everywhere!!
13) cover it done

Again this is what 'I' did via research etc etc.... I didn't plug the engine drain line, but with all the antifreeze that I put thru it and with it running, it would have gotten everywhere and it all runs out anyways (more or less), unless you lock it in, which doesn't seem to be necessary. Hope this helps!
 
In tampa here, we winterize by not putting in the water till noon, and take it out by 5:00, sometimes wear a jacket in the morning......
 
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