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Winterizing question

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Cid6.7

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1997 Challenger twin 787's

Ok so went around to a million different stores today trying to find hose pincers & noone had a clue what I was asking for ..lol "Cant you just kink it" friggin grrrr

So instead of clamping them how about just putting in some ball valves in the lines....?

Just got to be super careful in spring to be sure their open but other then that does anyone think this is a bad idea..?

Peace
 
Ball valves are fine. Someone else had the suggestion that you tape your lanyard to the ball valve so in the spring when going to start it, you see the dess on the hose and open up the valve if needed. Of course you could just leave it open all winter.

This is a great item to have in case you are towed in and some maniac tows you too fast.
 
I've thought about putting valves in.
My boat has no cut off valve for the gas lines either.

For this winterization though, I stopped at Home Depot and bought a bunch of cheap vice grips. $3.50 each. Get the needle nose ones. They work just great.
 
Yah itll be much easier for winterizing and being towed hope never need to be lol

Anyone know off hand the hose sizes for the valves ?

Thanks !
 
They would be nice for flushing the engine every time.
Dont know about the hose sizes. I have 717 engines, might not be the same, but I will go see what is written on them.
 
I just use small (4") "C" clamps, just because that's what I have in the garage. The problem with using ball valves is you're actually reducing the size of the hose, probably O.K. of the flush side, I wouldn't do it on the intake side. BTW the hose size is real close to 1/2".

Lou
 
I use flat jaw type vice grips. i carry 2 on the boat in case i need towed. If you add antifreeze in the rear flush port, you dont have to restrict any hose.
 
I use flat jaw type vice grips. i carry 2 on the boat in case i need towed. If you add antifreeze in the rear flush port, you dont have to restrict any hose.


really..? So if I just use a funnel hooked to the end of a short hose I just pour it in withought having to clamp anything..!?
 
Cid6.7 - That's the way i did it this year.
I put Sta-bil in the tank, got a bucket of pink RV antifreeze and a electric pump. Start the motor and I used the pump to suction the AF from the bucket until it came out PINK from the pee hole or the exhaust then shut the pump off then the motor. Then fog the carb and plugs and turn the motor over w/o starting it. Make sure all water is drained the inside of the hull, tip the trailer or use a shop vac.
 
Cid6.7 - That's the way i did it this year.
I put Sta-bil in the tank, got a bucket of pink RV antifreeze and a electric pump. Start the motor and I used the pump to suction the AF from the bucket until it came out PINK from the pee hole or the exhaust then shut the pump off then the motor. Then fog the carb and plugs and turn the motor over w/o starting it. Make sure all water is drained the inside of the hull, tip the trailer or use a shop vac.


The problem with the way you did it is when and how do you fog the engine? Maybe you don't think it's important, I do. You need to fog when the motor is running.

Lou
 
I was thinking about that. . I thought of fogging before but didn't know if the oil would cause it to run rough and possibly burn off before I was done adding AF. So i did it afterwards and cranked it a few times to spread the oil. I also didn't want the AF to be pushed out.
Is that OK?

I fogged my boat while running to stall it.
 
There's nothing wrong with your method, I would fog the engine first, with the fuel selector off, let it run out of gas while fogging, spray some fogging oil into the plugs, turn it over for about 10 secs. Then pump the antifreeze through the engine, if you're using a pump you don't need to have the motor running. I personally use a hand pump, because it's easier to control.

Lou
 
Oh so you need to pump it through..?

Just letting it drain in wont let it spread around the engine enough..?
Trying to think of the many pumps I have & could use that would be best..lol

Im thinkin maybe a little inline pump I have spare from my camper sink or maybe a hand ball valve used to siphon fuel..
 
Oh so you need to pump it through..?

Just letting it drain in wont let it spread around the engine enough..?
Trying to think of the many pumps I have & could use that would be best..lol

Im thinkin maybe a little inline pump I have spare from my camper sink or maybe a hand ball valve used to siphon fuel..


You do not need to pump the antifreeze through. It does not need to be under pressure. Some people use a bucket full of AF siting on the ground, they need to pump it up. Some use a container above the fill plug, they drain it. I picked up a "winterizing kit" at West Marine http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=101028&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=10104&subdeptNum=10352&classNum=10996 (part # 520411 if the link dont work). It made the job a lot easier, especially since we were doing my boat and my buddy's boat at the same time, then moving on to do his pool.
 
I just use small (4") "C" clamps, just because that's what I have in the garage. The problem with using ball valves is you're actually reducing the size of the hose, probably O.K. of the flush side, I wouldn't do it on the intake side. BTW the hose size is real close to 1/2".

Lou

48.jpg


These are the cheapo clamping pliers I got at HD.

49.jpg


My hoses are marked 1/2".
 
You don't need to necessarily pump the antifreeze, you can just pour it in, see the manual.

Lou
 
Thanks guys !
Sorry for the newbish questions but this is my 1st time winterizing & a bit nervous
I want to be sure I aint going to miss a step cause its defiantly going to get cold/freeze where I am..lol

So I did the gear oil yesterday put new seals in filled with synthetic 70/90 I filled until all bubbles came out then lowered the front end as low as she can go & waited a couple minutes and was able to put more in I figured the more the better so was that ok..?

Next I'll fog the engines then add the AF

When fogging should I be running the engines long enough that I'll need to hook up the water lines..?
Or can I just pull plugs & apply it thata way..?
I always run the fuel stabilizer in the fuel so no need to add that to run thru carbs..
 
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Thats why i add the antifreeze while I fog it, no need to hook it to the hose. I use a small submersible pump to pump it in while i fog it through the intake.
 
Well thats not as scary as I thought..lol

I usually run the engines outa fuel after each time out with the STA-BIL or this last time Sea-Foam additive so I didnt have to do that part..
So what I did was get my kid to crank the engine while I shot the fogger into the airfilter hole for around 10 seconds it would sputter and cough then I removed plugs & did the same (note to self use rag over plug holes) DUH..!! Gonna be washing fogger oil outa my nose for a week..

Then I had a brand new squeeze ball siphon hose I bought for a outboard that I never ended up using so shoved one end into the rear flush port the other end into the AF jug sitting on the swim deck & pumped until AF came out the exhaust easy peasy lemon squeezy..

Did that to both sides & saved myself $90 getting the shop to do it..

Thanks guys high 5..! lol
 
Good deal. The first time i did it, i was shocked how easy it is. Crazy the dealer charges like $150 for that.
 
I'm in the process of winterizing and had a quick question why did they put two garden hose connections on the boats if you have to pinch off the one that goes out the back of the boat anyway. Why is that one there?
 
I'm in the process of winterizing and had a quick question why did they put two garden hose connections on the boats if you have to pinch off the one that goes out the back of the boat anyway. Why is that one there?

Yeah no idea why theres two but using the rear one is a heck alot easier IMO
 
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