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Winterizing 2011 GTI 130. Please Help

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3pedalmini

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Hello everyone, this is my first post. Ive been over at PWCFORUM but it seems very empty and the responses are somwhat sarcastic:cool:

I purchased a GTI 130 in the beginning of the summer and have had a blast. I sadly didnt get to ride it as much as i had hoped. She only has 17 or so hours on her and i did the 10 hour oil change. I am mechanicly inclined and do all my own vehicle maintenace. All the dealers around here are charging $298 for the winterizing with free de-winterizing. I cant see spending the money for something i feel i can do. I cant seem to find one article or thread that outlines what you have to do. Ive done a search on here and google and nothing really pertains to our smaller engine PWCs

From what ive read ive got to do the following.

1) Fill the gas tank, add stabile and run the engine for a few minutes
2)Remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil or XPS lube in the holes and run the engine in drone mode (throttle all the way down) then refill spark plugs with xps lube and re attach the plugs
3)Blow out the exhaust with compressed air (optional to add antifreeze)
4)remove battery and place on a battery tender in a warm dry location
5)inspect and lube all moving parts, especially the nozzle and IBR mechanism. Lube with lithium grease
6)Liberally spray engine with XPS lube, wash and cover for the season (which i do after every ride)

???) do i need to drain the antifreeze in the coolant tank and replace with 100% antifreeze? if so how do i properly drain the tank?

She will be stored in an un insulated/non heated shed for the winter. I also plan on putting my trailer on jackstands so i dont get dryrot or flat tire syndrom. am i missing anything?

Any help is greatly appreciated:thumbsup: TIA
 
I agree,,,
You have it covered.

If for some reason you do drain the antifreeze, it will NEVER take 100% antifreeze to replace it. 50/50 just like a car...

The antifreeze will last literally a lifetime in most cases as far as providing coolant and antifreeze properties.

This issue with old antifreeze is, it is a lubricant and it loses the capability to lubricate parts such as water pumps as it ages. For this reason alone you need to swap out antifreeze like every 5 years or so.
 
2)Remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil or XPS lube in the holes and run the engine in drone mode (throttle all the way down) then refill spark plugs with xps lube and re attach the plugs

You don't mean fill the spark plug holes right? That's a typo? If it isn't you definately don't want to fill your cylinders with oil, just a second or two of spraying BRB Lube or Fogging oil is plenty.
 
Actually, the shop manual on mine states to spray the lube in the spark plug hole for 15 seconds. I'm not sure about a new 4 tech though.
 
Actually, the shop manual on mine states to spray the lube in the spark plug hole for 15 seconds. I'm not sure about a new 4 tech though.

Thanks foster, saves me looking it up ... I was just wanting to make sure OP didn't fill his cylinder with oil. If I interpreted his post properly anyways ...

:cheers:
 
Actually, i was wrong, i just went and looked in the shop manual. It says while fogging through the hole in the intake to do it at least 1 minute. It doesnt specify how long in the cylinders. But i think i read here or somewhere else, 15 seconds because that is what i have done the 3 times i have done it.

Also crank it a few times after that to distribute the oil.
 
You don't mean fill the spark plug holes right? That's a typo? If it isn't you definately don't want to fill your cylinders with oil, just a second or two of spraying BRB Lube or Fogging oil is plenty.

No, that wasn't a typo. thats why i came here to get the low down :) i keep reading conflicting information on how to do the fogging. strangely, everything I find is for 2 stroke and very little on 4tec rotax engines. so your saying i am better off just removing the plugs squirting fog oil in the plug hole for a couple seconds and then run the engine in drone mode for a few and then squirt again for a couple seconds and replace the spark plugs? that makes the most sense to me but i did read somewhere where someone fills the cylinder to the top with fog oil then sucks it out in the spring.

While i was doing some trailer maintenance i poped the plug wire off and then pulled out a long 6-8in "extension" and saw the actual spark plug down in the bottom. i assume i can use a spark plug socket and an extension to get down that far?

Also to be clear, i am ok pulling the plugs and squirting oil down there. I dont have to spray oil in the intake?

If i do have to spray through the intake how am i supposed to get to it? i see two rubber "bungee" cords and then two hex screws facing the stern about center right before the engine. i assume i remove the bungies and two screws then try and snap the cover off, then spray the oil down the intake while the engine is in drone mode? There is absolutely no place on the intake or even the hose between the airbox and engine to shoot oil.:confused:

I find it strange that the intake is so hard to get to. especially to change the filter. Is there something im missing? a panel to remove?

TIA, i really appreciate the help:)
 
Yes, that's what I do, and have been doing with 4 strokes for years (Bike, lawnmowers, when storing cars etc) To fog the 4tec, I would remove plugs spray fogging oil in for a second or two in each cylinder. Then use drown mode or Wide Open Throttle, and let er' crank a for a few revolutions. Spray abit more in to each cylinder and then reinstall plugs and coils. Filling the whole cylinder with oil just seems really redundant ... But hey to each their own i guess ... I think thats the first time of heard of that though ...

Regarding the intake hole, I think Foster may be mistaken between the intake on the 4tec and 2 stroke, as the Two Stroke intake has a little plug in the airbox that you can remove and shoot starter fluid, fogging oil etc into.

Yes you can use a 3/8 extension to get at the plugs ... Hope this helps!!

Kinda surprising that they charge yah 3 bills for this isn't it ... anyways they have their overhead to cover ...

:cheers:
 
I believe the operator guide that came with the boat has a 'Storage Procedure' section in it. It would be worthwhile to read it because it actually tells you what needs to be done.
 
Yes, that's what I do, and have been doing with 4 strokes for years (Bike, lawnmowers, when storing cars etc) To fog the 4tec, I would remove plugs spray fogging oil in for a second or two in each cylinder. Then use drown mode or Wide Open Throttle, and let er' crank a for a few revolutions. Spray abit more in to each cylinder and then reinstall plugs and coils. Filling the whole cylinder with oil just seems really redundant ... But hey to each their own i guess ... I think thats the first time of heard of that though ...

Regarding the intake hole, I think Foster may be mistaken between the intake on the 4tec and 2 stroke, as the Two Stroke intake has a little plug in the airbox that you can remove and shoot starter fluid, fogging oil etc into.

Yes you can use a 3/8 extension to get at the plugs ... Hope this helps!!

Kinda surprising that they charge yah 3 bills for this isn't it ... anyways they have their overhead to cover ...

:cheers:

Thanks man for the help! i really appreciate it:cheers:
 
I believe the operator guide that came with the boat has a 'Storage Procedure' section in it. It would be worthwhile to read it because it actually tells you what needs to be done.

I have. It literally says to blow out the exhaust and then shows a picture of an adapter. It then says to take it to an authorized BRP dealer for winterization:rolleyes:
 
I have. It literally says to blow out the exhaust and then shows a picture of an adapter. It then says to take it to an authorized BRP dealer for winterization:rolleyes:

Remember it's written in BRP manual to take it to a BRP dealer. They want their dealers to make $money$.
DIY and save a bundle of $money$.
Easy to do yourself.
 
Ok so I have a 04 4 teec bought this summer I need to winterize it also. I am assuming its the same process? I understand the fogging part. To blow the water out do you just hook up the flush hose on the back by the jet drive to a air compressor?
 
No to the flush valve part. Using this valve puts water into the engine block to cool it.
There is a "system" to blow the water chamber clear, but i don't know it since I don't need it.
Wait until the experts here answer you.

Actually I would start your own thread and ask again.
 
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