Winterization question (couple questions)

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benjilafouine

benjilafouine

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I downloaded the service manual for my Sea-Doo last night and watched some videos on YouTube on what to do for winterization. In a video by 3feetdeep, it is showing how to remove the IBR module and reach for the cone that contains grease and o-rings, change the o-rings and put some new grease. Does this part have to be done every year? My ski is only at 63 hours (only in fresh water, no salt).

I intended to change the oil even if I am far from 100 hours (oil a bit dark but clear) and of course winterize the exhaust but I wasn't expecting to grease the impeller.

Also, I saw on some videos that they remove water using an air compressor at 55 PSI but no one is putting RV antifreeze in there (even the service manual doesn't say to use RV antifreeze). Is the air compressor method only enough?

Finally, the service manual mentions fogging the cylinders.

Yours thoughts on this are appreciated.
 
I would do a oil change , oil filter change before the start of next season
Jet pump inspection is preventative maintenance and gives you a chance to check for water ingress which then would need changing bearing and seals

Fogging the engine is a definite plus as if there is any water in the muffler condensation forms on the exhaust valves and cylinders if any valves open

Doing the above saves you big $$$$ in the long run
 
Fogging doesn't look too complicated. However, by blowing the muffler/exhaust at 55 psi, can I assume there will be no water left in it?
 
Oh and yes, another question, I saw on the video that if I remove the injectors, I need to put some new "Dow Corning 111" grease. Is this a must?
 
You can use 100 psi if it’s not a iS ski per a dealer service bulletin. There can be water left in it just so there isn’t enough if it freezes to do damage. If the service manual says it works it works. The use of antifreeze should certainly work in lieu of compressed air.

Again if the service manual says to do something it’s probably a good idea. Dow Corning 111 grease is a dielectric water repellent grease to keep moisture out and your spark plugs firing. That’s a good thing. It can be purchased on Amazon.

I just noticed you said injectors, it’s when you remove the ignition coils from spark plugs is when you need to regrease the coil boots.
 
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Then I will do the antifreeze method and then blow air!

I have dielectric grease here, is this OK? Are there many grades/types of dielectric grease? Actually I used my dielectric grease on my old Sea-Doo 2003 to grease some connectors and didn't have an issue.

Also I forgot to ask, same thing for Loctite 767 (around the plugs threads). I only know about the red and the blue loctite... Could you point out to the good one?
 
Anti ice not for seals but metal threads
A good marine grease works
Seadoo changed from Molykote111 on later model skis to general marine grease
If you have a vacuum pump for oil change you could water out the muffler by removing the muffler out let hose to suck the water out
 
The grease is there to stop water getting in around the coils and filling up around the plugs
You could even use Vaseline but any marine grease is fine between rubber grommet and between grommet and cylinder head
A little on the seals for injectors will do them no harm and keep water and moisture out of intake
 
Found everything (I think)

Permatex anti-seize silver grade that bears number 767 (Permatex is owned by Loctite I was told).

Mercury Marine Lubricant (color blue grease). Hopefully that last one is the appropriate product. Actually, my dielectric grease looks just like Vaseline.

I'll get to that next week after an ultimate ride (I hope). This is definitely my most complicated machine around (aside automobiles). I can get buy ATVs, lawn mowers so I should be able to learn this Sea-Doo!

I am assuming that a standard 5/8 plug socket is the right one.
 
Actually, years ago, Porsche sent out a service bulletin to its dealers to NOT apply anti seize fluid to the spark plug threads because it helped to PREVENT the grounding of the spark plugs to the motor, so,to this day, I do not apply any anti seize to the plugs of my pwc's and or cars. Just make sure the engines are cool before you remove a plug.
 
Getting the water out of the inter-cooling heat exchanger by blowing air is something not to skimp on. Be sure your compressor can really sustain the 55 or 100 psi for several minutes. Stop and restart the blowing a couple times. The tubing in the heat exchanger is small and it doesn't take a lot of water in there to crack one of the tubes. Also, the air can blow through some of the tubes while others remain full of water.

If it needs to be replaced, its not super expensive part, but it takes quite a bit of disassembly to get access to it with the engine in the boat.

1570248834494.png
 
I believe, the basics of the manual are, and what I do is to remove both hoses, and then I attach a hose to the lower fitting, and then pour in anti freeze thru a narrow funnel of course, ( can't exactly remember how many ml, approx 300 ml ) , till the anti freeze comes out the top fitting.
 
Did the winterization today and I had a few minor worries.

First, I tried to blow air into the hose port. I could hear "guggle" sound but almost no water would come out so to make sure (even if my ski is going into the heated garage) I used RV antifreeze by gravity. It took forever for the funnel to empty but after a minute+ with water coming slowly out of the back of the ski, it finally turned red. Hopefully no overheating was done.

Second, the oil change. I rode today to see the full Fall colors (see picture below) so the engine was already hot. I used a gravity kit bought at the BRP dealer and it took forever for the oil to come down . Guess you have time for at least a beer when it empties but since I am on a diet, I just watched it with my hands empty... Once it drained out, I removed the hose and gave the Sea-Doo a crank with the throttle all the way down for 15 seconds (flood mode or something like that). Then I removed some more oil, then removed the oil filter, replaced O ring and drained a couple more ounces from there. This is what puzzles me: I emptied approximately 2.3 liters of oil and the BRP kit (900 ACE engine) only contained 1.9 liters of oil. I filled the ski with the new oil, started the engine for 15 seconds and check the oil level: at the minimum mark.

So, a couple things:

1. The blowing air method seems uncertain: how can you be sure nothing is left? At least with the RV antifreeze I am sure no more water is present.

2. Why is BRP selling a kit with 1.9 liters of new oil (2 US quarts) when you can siphon out 2.3 liters??? This will cost me a 80 miles round trip to fetch the missing oil.

Next step: fogging cylinders tomorrow. Hopefully I won't have any surprises there.

Aside from that, my last ride today was memorable. I won't be using the ski this season anymore as temperature is flirting below freezing point at night. Time to winterize.

Pictures from today (my hands were cold):
 

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The 4 tec usually takes about 3.5 litres, 1.9 litres makes no sense to me anyway. I would, take a short level, place it on the top of the motor, then raise or lower the trailer to level the motor. Start it up and let it idle for about 20 seconds. Now you can check your oil level. If it is below the half mark, you can just top it up. In drown mode, I usually turn it over for about 6 to 8 seconds, 15 seconds seems too long to spin the starter. You will have to be satisfied with an imperfect oil change, no big deal. Getting antifreeze in the inter cooler, we'd be my main concern.
 
Don’t forget that this is the 900 engine, not the 1500, manual says 2 litres.

Now question is: is this the low mark or the high mark?
 
POPPS said:
I believe, the basics of the manual are, and what I do is to remove both hoses, and then I attach a hose to the lower fitting, and then pour in anti freeze thru a narrow funnel of course, ( can't exactly remember how many ml, approx 300 ml ) , till the anti freeze comes out the top fitting.
Click to expand...
benjilafouine said:
Don’t forget that this is the 900 engine, not the 1500, manual says 2 litres.

Now question is: is this the low mark or the high mark?
Click to expand...


I apologize, is this a 4 tec,1500cc, or a spark, 900 cc, which holds just 2 litres? The 951 is a 2 stroke.
 
A bit of both... The GTI 90 is a full size Sea-Doo with the spark trixx engine, the ACE 900 HO.

Very affordable machine and very well equipped. Max speed of 45 mph.
 
Also bought the service manual, procedure for emptying exhaust is to blow air inside it at 55 psi. I found the antifreeze method to be safer. I used one gallon for good measure but leaking water started to change color at half point.
 
What does your service manual say is the proper level for oil quantity? For the 1500CC it is from the min to max lines. Also found complaints on Amazon of the same process, 2 qts only will fill to min line so your not alone. Just be sure when you top it off you don’t overfill. Min line to max line is going to be less less than a quart. Good idea to check quantity before draining so you would know for sure.

Also the service manuals were written for dealerships with the assumption that they probably had a decent air delivery system with some decent CFMs as Lakeside Rec was alluding to in his early post. A low CFM (small tank) compressor probably isn’t going to cut the mustard.
 
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