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What to look for when buying a use seadoo? (1999 gsx limited w/power trim)

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xoxxx

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Im looking at purchasing a 1999 seadoo gsx limited red with power trim.


-top end rebuilt at 80hrs
-140 hours now, 60 hours on top end
-new pistons any cylinders
-good compression he says


What should I be looking for when he brings it over and we try to run it off of a hose?

Thanks!
 
A life vest...................Ride it before ya buy it. Buyer Beware!

Yep... what he said. A crap ski will run just fine without a load. A test ride for at least 15 min is recommended. (longer is better) The only exceptions to this, is if you are buying a project.
 
Yep... what he said. A crap ski will run just fine without a load. A test ride for at least 15 min is recommended. (longer is better) The only exceptions to this, is if you are buying a project.


That really sucks, I don't have a way of testing it out other than hooking it up to a hose..
 
DO NOT buy a jetski without doing a lake test. Check the compression yourself. Some issues you might see after its to late, dirty carbs, wear ring/impellar problems and dare I say it, any weak spots in the hull. If the guy has problems with a lake test he might be hiding something. I personally have gone 3 hours away to do a lake test. Its worth it even now at almost $4 a gallon for gas.
 
DO NOT buy a jetski without doing a lake test. Check the compression yourself. Some issues you might see after its to late, dirty carbs, wear ring/impellar problems and dare I say it, any weak spots in the hull. If the guy has problems with a lake test he might be hiding something. I personally have gone 3 hours away to do a lake test. Its worth it even now at almost $4 a gallon for gas.

I actually got the opportunity to test it on a nearby river. I rode it around for about 15 minutes. And then did a full inspection and purchased it :)
I need to replace gas guage and break lights on trailer.
 
sounds good. you should do a compression check to know where it stands.

most likely you need to replace/fix the fuel baffle. they all go bad, it's in the tank and you have to unbolt the steering stem to get to it, kind of a pain compared to others but not bad, takes about an hour. the F1 fuse is probably blown on the board. as a temporary fix, you can connect the two pink output wires together and it will stop the fuel low beeping, the tank will always read full though.
 
I actually got the opportunity to test it on a nearby river. I rode it around for about 15 minutes. And then did a full inspection and purchased it :)
I need to replace gas guage and break lights on trailer.

Glad you got to test ride it.

And the trailer... I've never bought a trailer that actually had working lights.
 
sounds good. you should do a compression check to know where it stands.

most likely you need to replace/fix the fuel baffle. they all go bad, it's in the tank and you have to unbolt the steering stem to get to it, kind of a pain compared to others but not bad, takes about an hour. the F1 fuse is probably blown on the board. as a temporary fix, you can connect the two pink output wires together and it will stop the fuel low beeping, the tank will always read full though.
Compression is 120 exact on both cylinders.
Any more info on fuel baffle? Is that causing the fuel gauge issue?
What does the f1 fuse do?


Also, is there a particular reason why a little bit of gelling like water builds up in the front of the hull when run off of a hose?
Thanks!
Glad you got to test ride it.

And the trailer... I've never bought a trailer that actually had working lights.

yea most people don't remember that you need to unplug them before you lower into the water..
 
120 is not great, maybe your gauge is a little low, did you test with throttle wide open? you may need a top end soon.

yes, your gas gauge is most likely not working because of the fuel baffle, F1 fuse is in the fuel baffle and does nothing that I can figure out, safety reason I'm sure but I replace them with a dot of solder and have never had an issue.

To remove fuel baffle on gs/gsx:

1. open hood and remove storage container
2. remove 2 black air vent tubes
3. unplug two pink wire plug to fuel baffle and test resistance, if open circuit, bad fuel baffle
4. drain gas from tank, can use the fuel line to the water separater on RES setting
5. unhook 3 rubber tank straps, hooks on top
6. unplug 3 wire harnesses to MPEM
7. remove tank fill hose at tank
8. remove single bolt on end of steering cable under hood
9. remove 2 bolts at bottom clamp of steering mech, steering cable should now be free
10. remove 4 bolts that hold steering assy down(right rear can be accessed through vent tube hole to hold nut)
11. lift out steering assy and set to the side, don't disconnect any wires or cables
12. carefully lift and slide fuel tank forward to access the fuel baffle, try to keep oil tank in place, oil lines are short on other side and can pull out and drain all your oil
13. mark 4 fuel baffle lines and disconnect at hose clamps and remove hoses
14. remove 2 large hose clamps on fuel baffle rubber boot
15. pull out fuel baffle through steering assy opening, some moving and tilting of the fuel tank will be necessary

Next episode... Repairing the fuel baffle...stay tuned.
 
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120 is not great, maybe your gauge is a little low, did you test with throttle wide open? you may need a top end soon.

yes, your gas gauge is most likely not working because of the fuel baffle, F1 fuse is in the fuel baffle and does nothing that I can figure out, safety reason I'm sure but I replace them with a dot of solder and have never had an issue.

To remove fuel baffle on gs/gsx:

1. open hood and remove storage container
2. remove 2 black air vent tubes
3. unplug two pink wire plug to fuel baffle and test resistance, if open circuit, bad fuel baffle
4. drain gas from tank, can use the fuel line to the water separater on RES setting
5. unhook 3 rubber tank straps, hooks on top
6. unplug 3 wire harnesses to MPEM
7. remove tank fill hose at tank
8. remove single bolt on end of steering cable under hood
9. remove 2 bolts at bottom clamp of steering mech, steering cable should now be free
10. remove 4 bolts that hold steering assy down(right rear can be accessed through vent tube hole to hold nut)
11. lift out steering assy and set to the side, don't disconnect any wires or cables
12. carefully lift and slide fuel tank forward to access the fuel baffle, try to keep oil tank in place, oil lines are short on other side and can pull out and drain all your oil
13. mark 4 fuel baffle lines and disconnect at hose clamps and remove hoses
14. remove 2 large hose clamps on fuel baffle rubber boot
15. pull out fuel baffle through steering assy opening, some moving and tilting of the fuel tank will be necessary

Next episode... Repairing the fuel baffle...stay tuned.

This is a perfect guide, thanks :)

The top end was re-done 40hours ago.. So the hull has 140 hours, top end 40 hours.
 
I understand it's low, but isn't it good that there both within 100% of each other?

Wellllll............ Yes, they should not be much different... but when the compression is low, the blow-by gases will quickly eat the engine. (overheating it, and displacing the oil)

If it seemed to run well in the water... then get a different gauge, and recheck. (hold the throttle wide open, and make sure the battery has a good charge in it)

If you are out of the country... we are talking PSI.
 
Wellllll............ Yes, they should not be much different... but when the compression is low, the blow-by gases will quickly eat the engine. (overheating it, and displacing the oil)

If it seemed to run well in the water... then get a different gauge, and recheck. (hold the throttle wide open, and make sure the battery has a good charge in it)

If you are out of the country... we are talking PSI.
if the guage is accurate, and they are both 120, what exactly needs to be done?

Thanks!
 
you need a new top-end.

at 120 psi... I'm surprised that it ran well enough for you to ride it.

Really?
We used it at the lake today for about 4 hours without any issues..
are there any kits i can use to rebuild it?
the exact model is 1999 seadoo gsx limited red.

Thanks again for all the help I greatly appreciate it!
 
The link to the thread above shows the basics of the F1 fuse replacement but they overcomplicate it. All you need to do is drill a 1" hole at the location 1 1/4" down from ledge, replace the F1 fuse with solder, and your done, and you DON'T have to patch the hole, just leave the hole there, it does nothing. Patching the hole looks like a real pain and is not necessary and all that cutting to make that large window in the side is also a waste of time, just drill a quick 1" hole, plenty of room to work through with soldering iron. The whole job is really a 5-10 minute project.

The '99 will have the newer style white float where the magnets do not usually fall out, but I have seen them leak and fill up with gas, just like the older ones.

Of course, you should test the baffle using a resistance check before removing it. 0 ohms is the reading it should have for full tank, 90 ohm range is empty tank, open circuit usually means the F1 fuse is blown. If it's not reading the correct ohms for the current fuel level in the tank, the baffle will have to come out.

What is the top speed seen on your speedo? The GSXL should hit 70mph on the speedo or real close to it. If your compression is really 120psi, you won't see anything close to that. I suspect your gauge is low, you should try with another gauge if one is available.
 
What is the top speed seen on your speedo? The GSXL should hit 70mph on the speedo or real close to it. If your compression is really 120psi, you won't see anything close to that. I suspect your gauge is low, you should try with another gauge if one is available.


I'm kind of feeling the same way. Most seadoo's at 120 psi, wouldn't be running very well. I would get a second gauge and check again. Also, make sure you hold the throttle open while doing the test.
 
The link to the thread above shows the basics of the F1 fuse replacement but they overcomplicate it. All you need to do is drill a 1" hole at the location 1 1/4" down from ledge, replace the F1 fuse with solder, and your done, and you DON'T have to patch the hole, just leave the hole there, it does nothing. Patching the hole looks like a real pain and is not necessary and all that cutting to make that large window in the side is also a waste of time, just drill a quick 1" hole, plenty of room to work through with soldering iron. The whole job is really a 5-10 minute project.

The '99 will have the newer style white float where the magnets do not usually fall out, but I have seen them leak and fill up with gas, just like the older ones.

Of course, you should test the baffle using a resistance check before removing it. 0 ohms is the reading it should have for full tank, 90 ohm range is empty tank, open circuit usually means the F1 fuse is blown. If it's not reading the correct ohms for the current fuel level in the tank, the baffle will have to come out.

What is the top speed seen on your speedo? The GSXL should hit 70mph on the speedo or real close to it. If your compression is really 120psi, you won't see anything close to that. I suspect your gauge is low, you should try with another gauge if one is available.

Thanks for the simplifies version!
On the lake yesterday the computer says my top speed was 64mph, that's the fastest I could get on the choppy memorial weekend waters. Does that sound low?
 
I've done many and realised the vent breather hole and never made the door, except one bafel when the vent and return dump tubes were reversed, so I did close so the fuel would stay in the fafel and not fll into the tank. Why? I dunno! Bafel lenghts vary for gas tank sizes. The oem vent hole usually is same elevation as the f1 fuse, and on opposite side of float on PC card.... Thanks Ski-d00!
 
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Also one more thing I want to mention.
Today the computer is saying "maint" I'm assuming that means manitinence. And the Vts (power trim) seems to be not working anymore. It makes a noise like it's trying to move up or down but it doesn't move. Any ideas, an is this something I can ignore or is it a manor issue?
 
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