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What did I get myself into?

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I took all the top lines off so far. On the selector side they aren't what I would call gummed up but there definitely wasn't much of an opening on the inside. I cleaned the selector out and getting ready to replace the top fuel lines or all the 5/16 diameter ones today. Looks like I have a bit more work to get the 1/4 inch lines off that run underneath to the carb

Most of the selectors are no good. Either from the gunk causing internal issues and or the cleaning itself. They suck air and the ski runs poorly. $20 for a replacement.
 
951 valves are about $50 but would definitely recommend replacing them. The valve is a pain to get to on the XPL so might as well replace and know everything is new.
 
I appreciate the input for future reference but my main goal right now is to get fuel flowing from the tank to the filter again. I'm a one man band so for me it's one issue at a time lol
 
If you can't get fuel from the tank to the filter the only thing between them is the selector.
Once they start sucking air you don't get fuel. I haven't seen one that was cleaned that didn't start sucking air. The rubber in them goes bad or they are still partially clogged.
 
Yep. I've replaced every line from the tank to the filter and the selector and still no fuel. Looks like I'm gonna shell out for the fuel selector. I assume eBay or amazon are the easiest sources for these
 
Yep. I've replaced every line from the tank to the filter and the selector and still no fuel. Looks like I'm gonna shell out for the fuel selector. I assume eBay or amazon are the easiest sources for these

I'd replace it no matter what. That said, bypass it and see if you get fuel. Pretty common for the water separated O-ring to let air into the system.
 
Stay away from SBT selectors, I bought one for my HX and it didn't run right, checked the brand new selector and one of the brass outlet tubes had pulled out of the body, still inside my fuel line

Ordered a OEM with no issues
 
Somebody said they're $20 but all the ones I'm seeing are about $50. The ones I found for 20 say except the 951 engine? Am I missing something
 
Get the WSM one on Amazon. They work great. WSM 006-604 $39.27 and free shipping for the 951 engines.
 
You should be able to down load the repair manual off the Internet for free. These are not the usual animals to work on or operate. Use the correct oil ! I would drain and clean tank and put correct oil in. To be safe. Remember that all the fasteners on them are metric. Including the hex ( Allen ) drive fasteners. Do not use regular Allen wrenches on them. Get the metric 3/8 drive hex bits. Be very careful to not cross thread fasteners. It's a real bear to get a snapped bolt out of an engine that's in a 2 x 3 foot hole. All fasteners are Stainless Steel. It pays to have a towel below where your working. To catch dropped stuff. After riding check your bilges for bilge treasure. Old dropped fasteners and stuff will be to the rear of the engine.
 
Home Depot / Lowes have metric bolts, washers and nuts. Might not be stainless but they fit correctly.
 
Check your pulse line or replace. The line that comes from crank case to carb. Pull choke all the way out when cranking. It helps to pull gas into carbs.
 
Metric stuff is in the gray draws all the way down. The bagged stainless is SAE standard - fractional sizes. I do believe. Home Depot is my go to store a mile from my house.
 
IMG_4667.JPG

The line marked #2 runs to the bottom port on the fuel switch
The grey line with lettering runs to the "Y" located near the fuse box
The other blank grey line runs down under the engine to the top of the front carb
The other black un marked line runs to the top port on the fuel switch

Maybe I have these lines wrong? But I think according to the downloadable diagram they should be right
 
The first thing you'll want to do is check compression. A 951 stock compression is 135 psi per cylinder. If compression is low it can run great on the trailer but not start in the water one there is some resistance.

If compression checks out ok, you'll want to replace fuel lines, clean or replace the fuel selector, and rebuild the carbs before riding the ski.
Is 125 psi too low ?
 
On the fuel baffle it actually is marked. RES is the reserve port on the selector. ON is on port of selector. Middle port on selector goes to fuel filter. VNT goes to the Y up near fuse box. RET comes from the body of the carb. If everything is correct with the fuel on remove the return line from the carb and cover the hose with your finger you should be able to blow into the vent line and fuel will dribble out of the return fitting of the carb. This is how I prime the system whenever I replace fuel lines.
 
Pull the choke all the way out when you run the starter. It helps to gain vacuum to pull fuel to carbs. Still no fuel,use a pop off tester or other low pressure gauge and air source. To look for air leaks in the fuel system. It is easier to suck air then fuel. First place to look is in the front. The water separator / fuel filter, has the gasket fail all the time. The two piece oil tank can leak air too. Manual has the test procedure. No manual? You can down load for free off the Internet.
 
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