What brand of crank would you put in a 951 rebuild

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I use shops to get a full warranty, but I'm told Hot Rods make nice ones.. however that's anecdotal.

That's also an RXX crank?

is it different from the normal carb 951 crank?
 
The one in there looks brand new but it sounds like there's some slack in one of the bearings
 
At this point who knows what the previous pos did to this ski the water tray under the motor was apparently deleted the bottom end has been gone into since all the bolts paint is chipped away it had those garbage wsm pistons in it. There was a lot of vibration at idle that's what broke the twin pipes
 
I thought the water tray was only on the DI models? and since it's no longer a part people can get, people have been deleting them... since the carb one doesn't use one..?
 
I would only use an OEM crank on that high strung horse. I'm sure they run the DI cases with the cooler to try and cool the engine as much as they can.
 
I thought the water tray was only on the DI models? and since it's no longer a part people can get, people have been deleting them... since the carb one doesn't use one..?

Not to mention they can develop leaks.

I never understood why the DI has it & the carb's don't. I know they added the cooler on the stator cover because of the extra heat, but I don't see why the block would get any hotter. maybe a fuel mixture passing through the case has a cooling effect?
 
For the crank, My first 951 engine build, I sourced out and OEM crank with Racer's help. I've since sold the ski but it has been running great with 30 hours and has come back for me to winterize it.

The second I did for a friend and he went cheap with WSM crank. He's put 50 hours on it since last year and LOVES that engine. It runs really well. And he doesn't baby it being in an 01 xp! Probably spends more time under water or bouncing off the rev limiter than anything else.

The engine in my xp was built by my parts guy with SBT parts. (for 1000$ and no core I couldn't go wrong) Honestly it's been running beautifully. It was having a problem starting cold. but that has nothing to do with the engine.

So the choice is yours. Honestly the OEM's may last a little longer, but the 951's life is normally cut short due to CB shaft failiures, so it doesn't matter what crank you have, if the cb bearing goes. it will take out your crank. So I would be focusing more on the cb shaft. Both engines I rebuilt used OEM bearings (Had a shop press off the counterweights, etc) just my 2 cents.
 
The RXX manual recommended wrist pin bearings every 25 hrs. That was for the racers but it gives us reason to believe they had problems there. Normally that 951 noise is piston slap and your right to freshen the top end before things come apart.

Did you buy this RXX in Montgomery? I might be your "pos". I built one on a OEM crank with a WSM top end and mint cases without the case cooler once.
 
OEM crank. I have had good luck with ProX pistons on previous two stroke rebuilds 951 included.
 
The RXX manual recommended wrist pin bearings every 25 hrs. That was for the racers but it gives us reason to believe they had problems there. Normally that 951 noise is piston slap and your right to freshen the top end before things come apart.

Did you buy this RXX in Montgomery? I might be your "pos". I built one on a OEM crank with a WSM top end and mint cases without the case cooler once.
Lol no you're not the pos Matt it came from a guy in Dallas ga. Yes I know about replacing the bearings that was the reason I was thinking about building it myself if I keep the ski I'm not going to pay someone else to do the same things I can do myself these engines are very simple. You just have to pay attention when you assemble them
 
Yes the engines are pretty simple when you get to know them but taking those twin pipes on and off...........you can have all that, lol.
 
Are you still in contact with the guy you traded the set to? If he hasn't used them I would be interested.
 
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How much play should there be on the rods front to back feels like about 1/16 on each one of these.
 
If you want to verify those cases, call your dealer and give them your HIN number. From that they can tell you the engine SN, which is on the tag, if the number they give you doesn't match the tag on there then those are not the original cases.
 
Actually if you look at the holes where the case cooler goes...if they are not threaded, along with the 98 casting mark tells you someone had a disaster with the original cases. All 3 of the RXXs I parted had chunks of case in the bottom of the hull.

I 2nd the rebuild with all OEM parts.
 
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