RESTO Wear Ring Removal Oops

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I have a trashed housing missing chunks of the fins, so I figured I'd do a fuck it run on it to remove the ring. Looks like most are rubber over white plastic. I went a little deep and there's a def score. Doesn't matter here, but when I get into my good one, how big of an issue is that? I know what I'm looking for now so I'm not concerned, but some other clown may have beat me to it, so if I find a score line is that it for the housing? Literally can't find this searching.

Can't be too bad I guess...? One of the other assembly's I have has a square notch/keyway in it..
 

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That is an OEM wear ring and normal to blow out when old like yours.

Housing is fine, just make sure those pit marks are smooth.
 
I use loctite 609 when in stalling wear rings. A lot of them slip in too easy for my taste. :D
 
I use loctite 609 when in stalling wear rings. A lot of them slip in too easy for my taste. :D
Oh that would suck trying to remove..... The amount of prying I had to do to break this one free, I was concerned I was gonna mar the surface. Everyone says just use a screwdriver.... I'm surprised you find them they loose though. Not that I doubt you, but like 80+% of the posts about rings are people complaining they can't get them in, or they had to beat them in, or how to use a rubber mallet/2x4, putting them in the freezer, etc. I've noticed a few guys mention they will only use OEM rings because of clearances and fit. I know when I started looking into this a couple years ago, I thought about a stainless one, but I think I'm over that idea. I've got a couple other threads going about different parts of my projects, so they're all separated by part. I've got a ton of pump assembly questions.

One thing I'll say for anyone researching this later- a lot of posts and articles make out wear ring replacement and pump rebuilds as this massive project and make it seem extremely daunting. I avoided it 2 seasons out of concern I'd be broke down all summer. Having taken it apart now, If all I was doing was a straight parts swap or rebuild, this is a 30-60min project with all the parts. It's only things like my impeller that are holding me up. That and waiting on some replies for information not readily out there. Some guys are saying you should have a dime thick clearance to your ring, some say the plastic gets a groove worn in by the impeller during break in for the clearance. I'm not running stock impellers, so I kinda need some stience applied to the topic. Like trying to figure out what to do with the like 7 impellers I have sitting here right now.
 
I don't think I would use any sealant either on the wear-ring. Keep in mind that once you bolt the pump in you are actually clamping on the wear ring so it really can't go anywhere.

It is an easy job as long as have the impeller tool.

I make two cuts in the wear ring about 3/4" apart with a hacksaw blade by hand then get a screwdriver and break that part out then the ring comes right out. Clean the housing and put the new ring in dry and smack it on the garage floor until it is seated then reinstall the impeller.
 
Aftermarket Wear rings can be trouble installing and I've had to press a few in. I started using ONLY Seadoo Wear rings. As for any wear ring removal I cut them with a die grinder and a course carbide too meant for aluminum. I know some people and shops drive the wear rings out and don't even remove the impeller. That's not may game.

I believe the place I found the recommendation for using loctite on the wear ring was the Seadoo Repair manual. I find the 155mm wear ring fits to be only a slight tap fit if that.. They are easy to install though. :)

Good Luck !
 
Aftermarket Wear rings can be trouble installing and I've had to press a few in. I started using ONLY Seadoo Wear rings. As for any wear ring removal I cut them with a die grinder and a course carbide too meant for aluminum. I know some people and shops drive the wear rings out and don't even remove the impeller. That's not may game.

I believe the place I found the recommendation for using loctite on the wear ring was the Seadoo Repair manual. I find the 155mm wear ring fits to be only a slight tap fit if that.. They are easy to install though. :)

Good Luck !
Thanks mate. That's kinda what I've been reading about the fit on some. Without a factory impeller tho, I'm getting mixed signals on clearances. I cut that one out with a die grinder and knicked that score in the housing that I was worried about. Next one I'm gonna cut twice to avoid that like you said. Those dings shouldn't hurt anything tho, right? Yeah, I thought it looked like you could do it with the impeller in place too, but because of all the confusion with my impellers I figured I'd wait until I pull it
 
I don't think I would use any sealant either on the wear-ring. Keep in mind that once you bolt the pump in you are actually clamping on the wear ring so it really can't go anywhere.

It is an easy job as long as have the impeller tool.

I make two cuts in the wear ring about 3/4" apart with a hacksaw blade by hand then get a screwdriver and break that part out then the ring comes right out. Clean the housing and put the new ring in dry and smack it on the garage floor until it is seated then reinstall the impeller.
I've never heard about the sealant before either. I'm a little wary of doing that with how tight the fit is, but I can't say one way or the other personally. This is my first go of it, so I'm asking you guys. My impeller and ring clearances are the huge hold up. I need some serious advice on my post about the process. I'm trying to keep each part of the project in a dedicated thread to get specific answers instead of like a half dozen topics that never get quite addressed, and also for search result purposes later for others like me.

I have an entire thread with pictures of the 4 housings, 3 impellers, and 2 skis I'm starting on this week. After I figure out which part goes to what and what I need to replace, I'll do the same on my next 2 skis.
 
As I mentioned some wear rings are "not so snug fitting" and easier to install. Other wear rings need to be pressed in or persuaded :) This is the document that recommendeds using LOCTITE on the outer side of the wear ring before installation on certain models. Most disassembly procedures recommend using loctite cleaner on the pump housing but it is not specific. This is from the 1999 Seadoo Manual. Good Luck !!

Wear Ring Loctite Seadoo Manual.png
 
As I mentioned some wear rings are "not so snug fitting" and easier to install. Other wear rings need to be pressed in or persuaded :) This is the document that recommendeds using LOCTITE on the outer side of the wear ring before installation on certain models. Most disassembly procedures recommend using loctite cleaner on the pump housing but it is not specific. This is from the 1999 Seadoo Manual. Good Luck !!

View attachment 53934

That is only for the 155mm pumps, Silly Gene,, the smaller pumps it actually says to use lubricant.

And only nerds read manuals...

Just busting your chops!
 
Thanks mate. That's kinda what I've been reading about the fit on some. Without a factory impeller tho, I'm getting mixed signals on clearances. I cut that one out with a die grinder and knicked that score in the housing that I was worried about. Next one I'm gonna cut twice to avoid that like you said. Those dings shouldn't hurt anything tho, right? Yeah, I thought it looked like you could do it with the impeller in place too, but because of all the confusion with my impellers I figured I'd wait until I pull it
Check the post above. You can get a feel for these... some slide in pretty easy and will only need a few taps to seat it all the way down. I find the 140mm are generally all pretty snug thus Seadoo recommends "Lubricant" on those.

Yes a couple markes or gouges aren't going to hurt at all. I also don't like pounding the hell out of the face of the wear ring. Wood and rubber dead blow hammers make dents in that thin surface which is a concern to me. I think a press is the best way if you have one but.... either way... it works.

As for drilling the (4) holes in the wear ring to accomodate the 4 screws on the larger pumps, I just took a piece of clear tubing we use for the oil injection lines and slid it over the drill leaving the amount of penetration I require to stick out (the tubing is plenty snug on the drill so won't move easily) That is my STOP drill depth. Just be gentle and don't push too hard. Also watch the outer diameter of the wear ring as you screw in the set screws. Make sure you're NOT pushing the wear ring away from the bore. That will happen if you are not deep enough or you don't have a large enough drill. Be careful !! Good Luck !!
 
I serioulsy wouldn't recommend loctite on the smaller pumps or any fit that is tight. You'll never get the wear ring installed unless you do it very very quickly. Loctite reacts as soon as AIR (oxygen) is removed "Anerobic" so if you pound on the wear ring a bit and decide you are thirsty and go for some water..... you'll likely be in a pickle. Doesn't take it long. :D Touchdowns everyone !!
 
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