Water in the engine, would not turn anymore

[FLMike]

Hello guys,

After winter season and rebuilding a supercharger I've decided to start the ski. Hooked the hose and turn the water on :facepalm: . When I attempted to start it just clicked. First thought - dead battery. Connected jumper cables and the starter still just clicks. Water still running...:facepalm:

After some thinking removed the sparkplugs and... long story - short the water was all the way in SC and intake. Lots of water. drain whatever I could through the intake and turned until the water stoped comming out of sparkplug holes.
- if I short the sollenoid it will turn without plugs, it will not turn with plugs
- Starter will not turn the engine in neither scenario

what could be the cause of that?
I would really appreciate any help

Mike

 

[red2blue]

Hello guys,

After winter season and rebuilding a supercharger I've decided to start the ski. Hooked the hose and turn the water on :facepalm: . When I attempted to start it just clicked. First thought - dead battery. Connected jumper cables and the starter still just clicks. Water still running...:facepalm:

After some thinking removed the sparkplugs and... long story - short the water was all the way in SC and intake. Lots of water. drain whatever I could through the intake and turned until the water stoped comming out of sparkplug holes.
- if I short the sollenoid it will turn without plugs, it will not turn with plugs
- Starter will not turn the engine in neither scenario

what could be the cause of that?
I would really appreciate any help

Mike

Wow...heh...okay..now you know...turn on motor...turn on water...turn off water..turn off motor. And then...don't leave it run on the hose for more than a coupla min.

Disconnect water hose. Remove spark plugs. If you got water all the way through the sc...bad...remove air intake....inter-cooler...get that water out of the motor...completely. Crank the motor...put charging on battery if necessary. Start oil changes immediately.

Hydro-locking is the term to describe why the motor will not turn with plugs in the cylinders....water does not compress...so when the motor tries to spin with water in the cylinders...somethin else has to give...usually a rod.

 

[FLMike]

Thank you Red2Blue,

I've disconnected intake, exhaust and used paertowel to get inside the cylinder. is there any easier way to get it out?
"start oil changes" - anything besides engine oil?

it only turns with the screwdriver without plugs - you think I have a burned solenoid?

 

[Coastiejoe]

Thats testable. See if you are getting 12 volts at the trigger wire on the solenoid when you press the starter button. If so, bed solenoid. If not, then you need to check fuses, stater button and plugs at the MPEM. Also, based on the poor performance of the starter, you have a bad connection, bad starter, or week or bad battery. If the water is out of the cylinders, it should crank assuming the items I mentioned are all good.


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[FLMike]

Joe, there are 2 wires coming into the solenoid and I have 11v between them regardless of start button.... grrrrr getting frustrating. there might be small pullup just for connection check purposes or I am overthinking it.

 

[Coastiejoe]

No, water in the intercooler is bad. It is either cracked or, you SERIOUSLY flooded the engine with the hose.
The two large red wires on the solenoid are not the trigger wire. One comes from the battery and the other goes to the starter. There should be a smaller wire that basically runs up to the START button. That is the wire you need to test. Should have no volts until you press the start button. Then it should have over 12 volts. If your battery is at 11 volts, it is to low. At 10.8 volts the MPEM stops working.

You NEED to get the battery load tested. My guess is, it is just low from you cranking.

You need to get all the water out. If there is any in the inter cooler, you will keep sucking it into the engine.


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[FLMike]

I've talked to Barney's and they described this as an emergency and sugested to bring it in immediately. so i am trying to dry it as much as i can therefor i have a few questions:
What is the best way to get the water out of the oil? Now i understand what oil changeS means...
How do i get the water from the intake manifold? Blower? Hairdryer? Vacume cleaner?
Do i have to replace every rubber gasket i tuch?
Is there any harm to bypass the supercharger and exhaust for test and what should i expect? Sneezing?

And there are 2 signal wires comming to the solenoid.

 

[red2blue]

First things first...start getting that contaminated oil out...now! Change oil...plugs out the first time crank the motor. change again. pull he sc...tb...ic. dry them....make sure you didn't run water all the way through the air intake.

The longer that water is in the motor...the worse things are gonna get.

 

[Coastiejoe]

And by worse,,, he means EXPENSIVE... Engines do not like water in the crank and cylinder area.

 

[FLMike]

Here is what I've done so far:
Day1:
-Hydrolocked the engine
- push all the water out of the cylinders
Day2:
- exhaust out
- 2cycle oil in the cylinders
- intake out
- wd40 in the intake valves
- 3 oil changes
Day3:
- 2 oil changes, discovered the oil pump drain plug

Here are the questions:
- should I replace all the seals I touch? Throttlebody, intake, dipstick tube?
- Manual calls for burning off the water - can I do it without the filter? or with the old watery filter?

I appreciate the advice
Mike

 

[ski-d00]

Now the most important thing is to get it running and back out on the water right away. Nothing will get all the moisture completely out except for running it for at least 30 minutes but an hour is better.

You don't need to replace any seals as long as they look good. New filter is better but you can blow out the old filter with compressed air and heat to dry it out. Do not use a filter with water in it, it will plug and collapse under the pressure which is bad but won't ruin your engine like others think because there is an oil pressure bypass for this situation. Do not run without a filter, it relies on the resistance to maintain proper pressure and flow and keeping small particles out of your oil pump. Get the ski on the water asap.

There is no oil pump drain plug. Are you removing the plug at the back of the pto housing? This contains oil but is not the oil sump area. The only proper way to change oil is through the dipstick. I would run it on the hose for 3-4 minutes properly and rev to 5k rpm for 10 seconds when you shut it off which moves oil from the pto housing to the oil sump. Then change oil again, then get out on water for an hour. Then final oil and filter change.

 

[red2blue]

I'd use a cheapy filter...Hi-Flo is what I use. But....unless that oil is comin out clear...ie...not milky...gotta keep the oil changes comin. Once it's clear...then time to run it.

Make sure you're using a good 10w40 4stroke motorcycle oil when you hit the water.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Can not stress enough, GET IT RUNNING, GET IT RUNNING, GET IT RUNNING. Then once you do, change the oil if it is milky at all. Then get to a ramp and launch it. It will need a good 30 minute run to get the block hot enough to dissipate the residual water. This really is a must. The longer before you can get it up to temp the greater the odds of permanent crank and bearing damage.

 

[FLMike]

Sorry for not replying for a while. I really appreciate all the help you guys provide for the noobs like me. I took the ski on the water for a few hours and it ran great!

Here is what I've done so far:
Day1:
-Hydrolocked the engine
- push all the water out of the cylinders
Day2:
- exhaust out
- 2cycle oil in the cylinders
- intake out
- wd40 in the intake valves
- 3 oil changes
Day3:
- 2 oil changes, discovered the oil pump drain plug
Day4:
- 30 minutes running on the ramp (I did not clamp the cooling hose), but the oil looked great
Day6:
- ran it for 3 hours.
- oil change

Since I just went through this I would like to share some stuff that I've learned on the net:
there is no removing intake/ hydrolocking video on Utube so you will have to figure it out and take pictures while taking it apart
When you doing oil change try to suck all of the oil out... Even if you have to spend significantly more time. See attached images

(c) All 3 stolen from this thread
I was using Shell Rotella T6 diesel oil. it was very cheap at walmart (~$17 a gallon)
Put tons of papertowels under the engine that will catch falling bolts, oil and water. trust me 2 rolls of papertowels well worth fishing for that star socket

Once again Thank you guys - I don't know what I would doo without you

 

[ricardo1]

Glad you get it figured out.