VTS Trim Wiring Question

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knee-dragger777

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Got a question. My VTS trim module has gone out again, due to some leaky drain plugs allowing water in my hull. I have a used replacement, but the wiring connections pins are different. Apparently from a different year. They both look Identical, but my '96 GSX's has a six pin connector, while the used replacement's has about three seperate pins. I was thinking of using my old wiring harness, and cutting into the used replacement, and making sure the wires are sealed very well.

Anyone had success with this?
 
Ummm well

I have heard for some one doing this but they ended up having to jump the fuse or else it would keep blowing it. was it the motor or the electronics that went out. You can always google seadoo vts fix and look up Variable Trim System Analysis By Dr.Volts he shows you diffents things that could go wrong and it might be able to help you.
 
instead of cutting the wires, just remove them from the connectors
and re-install into your old vts connector
never tried to fit a non-correct vts housing, but if you have extra wires?
hmmmm dont know what you would do
grab a wire diagram and figure out whats what, diagram tho might not show the circuits in the vts housing
poke around and see what other people have done as previously posted
good luck
mud
 
VTS wires...

Got a question. My VTS trim module has gone out again, due to some leaky drain plugs allowing water in my hull. I have a used replacement, but the wiring connections pins are different. Apparently from a different year. They both look Identical, but my '96 GSX's has a six pin connector, while the used replacement's has about three seperate pins. I was thinking of using my old wiring harness, and cutting into the used replacement, and making sure the wires are sealed very well.

Anyone had success with this?

The layout for operation of the VTS, if you decide to splice is, ....

The black wire to your handle bar is your common ground. The blue/white wire is your "UP" mode and your green/white is your "DOWN" mode. When operated in either direction, one of the color strip wires comes in contact with your ground in the swith to operate. So, that takes care of those 3 colors.

The brown/black and brown/white go to your info center and the purple/white is traced back to your "relay" where it changes to purple/blue along with way, where it meets another wire.

I hope that helps get you started. :cheers:
 
Well I thought I would provide some closure. Here is what I discovered. The fuse that looked completly intact, and even under light, and magnafying lense, was blown after diagnosing with an ohm meter :dupe::banghead:

What I did discover is, that you cannot use an older electric VTS (w/ multiple (3) connectors) cut the wires, and and wire it up( all the same color sceme by the way), and it work with the newer six pin connectors. When I tried it,
the older VTs would only work in the down ward mode.

Of course, the older VTS was a used item, and I do not have an older ski to determine if it was good.

One rant,- why are these things not repairable(especially the potting), and so dang expensive?? I am lucky to find some used for about 70-80.

Thanks so much for the help BTW.
 
Parts...?

I've always wondered things like that. It's got to be for making more money or making sure the parts department has customers. My boat uses the manual VTS, which I love. My GTX is not equipped with VTS.

Back several years ago, all in line 4 cylinder, double overhead cam motorcycles were air cooled (I ridin motorcycles for many more years than PWC's). Then, in the early 80's, they started turning out water cooled engines. It was impossible to find the inline 4 without the radiator. I was so bummed because that had always been my fav motor. But, I told the dealer, I was not going to buy a motorcycle with an extra sub system, that wasn't needed. The inline 4 ran for many, many years without it, why add it? It was only an additional system you would have to take care of, buy parts for and if you were on the road and the thermostat or water pump failed, you were screwed.

This is what all manufactures seem to do. When something works well, just the way it's designed, they screw around with it, changing it because, the original design worked so well, they were not selling any repair parts.

Remember, these guys make a large chunk of change in service and parts. They are not going to design something that lasts. If so, they'll put their own distributers out of business. That's why the VTS is so screwed up and expensive. They need your money.......
 
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