Total rebuilt premix yes or maybe

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I just completed a long total rebuilt on a 717 gs, going to lake Saturday for 1st run. I have some concerns about the oil injection system working correct. I have med range octane in the tank, I was thinking about adding a little 2 stroke oil to the gas, to be on safe side. Than I do not want to add to much, that it fouls off the plugs and smokes so bad, and be stranded on the lake. Somebody have any ideas on how much per gallon may work.
 
Your supposed to run 40:1 along with the oil injection for the first tank of fuel after a rebuild anyways.
Well, it smoked really bad, started it while it was partly still on the trailer, but still in enough water for it would not over heat, let it than go to a idle for I could get it turned around, for a run, well than it stalled and had trouble keeping it running, so back on the trailer and back in my shop. Maybe cut off the premix and adjust carbs so how, I did a complete carbs rebuild and pop off on spec, any advise.
 
Well, it smoked really bad, started it while it was partly still on the trailer, but still in enough water for it would not over heat, let it than go to a idle for I could get it turned around, for a run, well than it stalled and had trouble keeping it running, so back on the trailer and back in my shop. Maybe cut off the premix and adjust carbs so how, I did a complete carbs rebuild and pop off on spec, any advise.
The extra oil from the premix isn’t causing any problems, You rebuilt the carbs with Mikuni from where? You pressure tested the carbs after they were back together? What was your pop off? And what do you have the idle set at, low and high speed screws set at? Did you do a leak down test after the rebuild? To verify oil seals aren’t leaking? Pressure test the fuel system? Did you try pullling the choke when it was about to stall? When you had the carb apart did you happen to notice what was in there for jets? Machine is all stock? No aftermarket fuel filter?
 
I didn't do a leak test, and did not pull choke when stalling, not sure of jets, brought kit from SBT and needle and seat off Amazon, mic parts complete and matched old parts
 
I didn't do a leak test, and did not pull choke when stalling, not sure of jets, brought kit from SBT and needle and seat off Amazon, mic parts complete and matched old parts
There’s your problem, seen it 100 times on here, aftermarket carb kits don’t work. Order the back to OEM carb rebuild kit from OSD Marine, follow Mikidymac’s carb rebuild thread and I’m almost sure it will solve your issues. Don’t run it, as it is now though or you will most likely damage the engine.
 
Do I turn high speed screw all the way in, and don't turn it out at all, how do I increase pop off, is it by the spring size, late in season just want to get one soft run, before I order new carb kit
 
Do I turn high speed screw all the way in, and don't turn it out at all, how do I increase pop off, is it by the spring size, late in season just want to get one soft run, before I order new carb kit
Yes, just take the plastic cap off, turn the screw all the way in, just lightly, put plastic cap back on so that screw can’t turn itself out. Yes, you need the proper spring for the correct pop off, I’ve never had to bend the needle arm. You want me to send you the link for Mikidymac’s carb rebuild thread? It’s in the signature of his profile
 
Just one more thing for now, can I blow compression air threw pulse line into crankcase. This original crankcase, was a previous owner, who blew out both outer seals and 2 inner seals, and might be clogged a little.
 
Just one more thing for now, can I blow compression air threw pulse line into crankcase. This original crankcase, was a previous owner, who blew out both outer seals and 2 inner seals, and might be clogged a little.
I’m not following sorry, it’s the original crankcase? What do you mean, he blew out the outer and inner seals? What might be clogged? Sorry, I’m not understanding at all
 
Just one more thing for now, can I blow compression air threw pulse line into crankcase. This original crankcase, was a previous owner, who blew out both outer seals and 2 inner seals, and might be clogged a little.
If your putting air into the crankcase through the pulse fitting I wouldn’t put no more than 8 pounds, I use 6 because the manual I was using called for 6 pounds but most on here pressurize with 8 for leak down test. If you putting pressure into pulse line fitting on the carb more than 4 pounds.
 
I bought the ski last spring, the inside crankshaft case was loaded with oil from spun bearings and seals, I think maybe pulse line might have some clogging from oil
 
I’m just guessing here but wouldn’t you be able to feel a little pulse of air you took it off at the carb? I haven’t tried it, but that line should pulse, then suck, then pulse.... rapidly when cranking the engine. I wouldn’t get to crazy with the air pressure on it. I would almost bet your issue is with the carbs
 
So did they put in a new crankshaft?
You can't just replace the inner bearings and seals on these.
 
You been right on everything so far on my 01 717, just another question, ski will startup and run good with air box off, so soon as I put air box on hard, to start, got any idea's
 
Sounds like something is wrong with the carbs and it is rich. Putting the airbox on makes it even worse as less air is like more fuel, rich.
 
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