Tore it all down, still can't find the problem! This is one for the records...

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IDoSeaDoo

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2003 GTX SC 185HP motor in a 1997 Challenger. First ride of the season. Took boat out and it started strong, but before it could plane out, started missing on half the cylinders. Unplugging injector/coil on #1 cyl seemed to cause no change. #2 was more detrimental, and #3 shut the engine off. So I checked compression and got 130psi on all 3. Replaced plugs and boat ran great again. I started testing it on the water, and all seemed fine. Was running perfect. 5 miles later, I noticed a vibration, like the pump is unbalanced... slowed down and vibration seemed to improve. Kept going and a while later, felt a thump. I thought it was the Bass dropping on the 10" sub right beside the helm. Once the music died down between tracks, I noticed a weird noise, like a spun bearing. It sounded like a bearing without a cage, where the balls are going around, chasing the gap. I dropped the RPMs and started feeling the vibration more. The lower I dropped the RPM, the worse the nose/vibration got. Shortly after, the engine started to struggle, and the Check Engine alarm came on the dash and beeped. I shut it down. Attempting to restart gave me the worst squeal grind ever. Coupled with the scolding beep from the MPEM, I decided to not press it again.

My first thought was PUMP. Since before the first ride, I did change out the impeller for one out of a 2005 GTX. This thing was MINT. The boat pulled like a beast with 0 cavitation. I do have a metal wear ring in this thing as well. When I checked the pump though, I found that it turns smoothly. I even put it on an impact gun and turned it over fast and it didn't make any noise. The impeller does however have some wear around the blades, like they've been grinding the wear ring. The wear ring itself has some markings, and both are rusty, despite both being SS. The thing turns smoothly and quietly, even at the speed of a dewalt drill.

I started taking apart the engine, thinking maybe it's the supercharger. I pulled the SC, and it turned out to be just fine. Washers and bearigns in perfect shape. Spins smoothly, quietly, and no play in the shaft whatsoever. Next, I pulled the oil filter and found aluminum chips in it. I'm not used to seeing this much debris in a 4stroke oil filter, so I figured it's bearings. However, I pulled the plugs and they looked perfect (just like after I changed them). I then did another compression test. Got 130, 130, and 140. Interestingly, 130 belonged to the two cylinders which mattered the least during my initial problem that was "fixed" after I put in new plugs. Cylinder #3 had the highest compression.

Anyway, I pulled the motor, and both oil pumps looked good, aside from some normal scarring. Looks like some of those aluminum chunks made it though there, but they're not destroyed. They definitely don't look new, but don't look destroyed either. Spinning the motor over with the starter sounds perfect, and I even saw a jet of oil shooting at where the SC gears would have been had I not had it removed. Turning the engine over by ratchet when it was out felt smooth and no play.

I got as far as removing the valve cover and making sure the valve train looks perfect, and cam lobes look good. I couldn't remove the large aluminum caps on the bottom of the engine (need propane to loosen). But at this point, I'm guessing pulling it apart any further would yield no more answers. I'll probably find that the bearings are perfect, just like they were in 2015, when I last had this engine apart to check bearings, install ARP flywheel bolts and replace all valves to bulletproof the engine. I wonder if it really may have been the pump all along. Could I have maybe sucked something up? What about that dry bearing noise? I wouldn't call it "grinding" or "growling"... it was like a bearing spinning in a race that was a bit too large for it.... Could that have been the sound of the impeller hitting the steel wear ring? They are both scrathed up, adn the impeller looks like it was rubbing against it. This pump was rebuilt about 150hr ago with a WSM kit...
 
Here are some pics. The whole filter was full of these little chunks of aluminum. The screen had some gasket material, probably from last time I had it apart.
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No idea but I do have a 05 GTX with a 185hp in it sitting in my Dad's backyard that I need a plan for. If you end up needing major engine stuff I could send that ski up for 300 over the cost of shipping.
 
No idea but I do have a 05 GTX with a 185hp in it sitting in my Dad's backyard that I need a plan for. If you end up needing major engine stuff I could send that ski up for 300 over the cost of shipping.
PM me your number please, I'd like to talk to you about it. Thanks Matt!
 
2003 GTX SC 185HP motor in a 1997 Challenger. First ride of the season. Took boat out and it started strong, but before it could plane out, started missing on half the cylinders.

My first thought was PUMP. Since before the first ride, I did change out the impeller for one out of a 2005 GTX. This thing was MINT. The boat pulled like a beast with 0 cavitation. I do have a metal wear ring in this thing as well. When I checked the pump though, I found that it turns smoothly. I even put it on an impact gun and turned it over fast and it didn't make any noise. The impeller does however have some wear around the blades, like they've been grinding the wear ring. The wear ring itself has some markings, and both are rusty, despite both being SS. The thing turns smoothly and quietly, even at the speed of a dewalt drill.

Have you measured the radial play of the jet pump bearing? Not that I would ever put an impact gun on a jet pump since the impact shock could damage the bearing, but you will not have the hydrodynamic loads on the pump with the pump sitting on a bench and rotating the impeller shaft with any type of tool.
 
It's possible I didn't tighten that prop on well enough... I thought that the engine torque would take care of that and didn't want it to be too tight to where I couldn't take it off again. I think my thrust bearing is toast.
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Got the thrust bearings out and crank and block look good. Mains gauged fine, as did the spaces between the conn rods and crank so I think I'll just replace thrust bearings and reassemble.
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That thrust bearing wear is not normal. I suspect impact between the impeller and the SS wear ring (as the picture evidence shows) led to excessive axial force on the crankshaft and the abnormal bearing wear. Expect repeat damage to the new thrust bearing unless you fix the jet pump.
 
You gus are probably right as I had changed the impeller just before running the boat. Before I used to just tighten it with the impact gun and figured the torque of the engine would keep it tight, but I guess I was wrong. Noob mistake, I knoooow, but it's literally the first time this ever happened to me, I've been doing it for years.
 
Yeah, it's a big gotcha I think. And you're not the 1st to experience the mysterious thrust bearing failure, perhaps you can confirm for us the impeller was loose as found?
 
Can't confirm as I thought it was the pump at first, and removed the impeller first thing. While I had it off and spinning by hand, it DID NOT SEEM loose, but maybe the threads had enough gunk on them to keep it from spinning loose. Interestingly, the edges on the pump appear as though they did make a little contact with the wear ring. The clearance was there though, maybe my pump bearing is going out...
 
Good guess, if you have too much radial play in the bearing, that could result in the impeller contacting the wear ring, but in your case, you don't have a wear ring ... no give, so that contact force is going to be transmitted somewhere.

You may have even damaged the bearing by using an impact gun to tighten the impeller shaft. Bearings are not designed to take that kind of force and I'd suspect brinelling. Using an impact is like hitting the rolling elements of the bearing into the race with a hammer. Use a torque wrench, and tighten to 95 ft lbs. Don't forget to apply Loctite 243 (blue) to the threads.
 
Well, I think I found the ACTUAL culprit. Checked my motor mounts and the metal top of the front mount is damn near ripped off. Similar story on the rear two. It's still attached, but pretty loose. I think the torque of the new prop was enough to slide the whole motor back. So here's what I'm wondering: do I put a bolt through the mount from the bottom to act as a stud, or do I use flex seal to glue the thing back on. I have used Superior Sealant Foundation Sealant (construction urethane) with great success in the past. I can't wait for new motor mounts, so I need to do something quick here... Going to rip off all the motor mount tops with the screw threads and clean them real well with chemicals. Then I'm going to glue the rear two with flex seal glue. The front will get a stainless bolt from the bottom going up through the top as a stud. Going to be a bitch getting the motor back on there like that, but I have to have it this weekend. I think it'll work, as I've used that foundation sealant succesfully. I think it's as strong as the initial metal-rubber bond.
 
I really don't think any adhesive is going to work on the engine mounts. You really risk damaging a lot more parts if they break.

If you call Nick at Westside he can overnight some mounts to you.
 
I used superior sealant on these mounts before to glue the bases to the rubber bushing, and they're still holding strong. This time, the tops tore off. I already ordered new ones, they'll be here this weekend. The front mount has a bolt through it now, attaching the base to the bushing and acting as a stud for the engine bracket. Should work indefinitely, but I'll still replace it after I get new mounts.
 
This is the stuff I was talking about. Been holding my mounts for over 3 years now and in very choppy conditions (Atlantic ocean). Inspected last night and both are still veru strong where I glued them.
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Good to know it's been working, I might need to do this myself some day in a pinch. I've always got a tube of 5200 lying around, it would be a good experiment.

I imagine you prepped with a solvent to remove grease and oil?
 
Good to know it's been working, I might need to do this myself some day in a pinch. I've always got a tube of 5200 lying around, it would be a good experiment.

I imagine you prepped with a solvent to remove grease and oil?
I probably did, but it was so long ago. 5200 would probably work too, that stuff is crazy tough. I had a boat where they did an ugly job sealing some holes. It was very hard to remove it, even with a scraper.
 
Ha yeah, it's great sealer, not to mention it's adhesive properties. We had a boat come into the shop someone had "sealed" the stern drive onto the hull with 5200. Finally we used our Cat front-end loader to pull it off along with the fiberglass it was attached to.
 
In the future if you can get to it with an oscillating multi tool and one of the super thin, sharp scraper blades they go through the polyurethane adhesives like butter and don't damage the fiberglass. Also works great for removing hydroturf.
 
Yes, or a metal wire with handles and pulled tight to cut the adhesive. That stuff does get pretty hard though.

The boat was junk anyway, we were stripping it down. The only things holding it together were 5200 and bailing wire. ;)
 
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