To service or not to service ???

[ipswichsurfer]

Hi everyone. I have a 2004 Seadoo RXP which I used through the winter (when I lived in Queensland) for the first 3 years of its life. I now live in Victoria and haven't put it in the water over winter the last 2 years, and have only used it in the summer. It has done 130 hours, and had the 100 hour service done 2 years ago. I have turned the motor over every 2 weeks, and it hasn't got below freezing here ever.

OK, now for the question, how much maintenance do I need to do before I take it out this summer i.e. oil, filter, coolant, greasing etc.
My local dealer wants to charge me $900.00 which is a bit pricey if I have to do it every year.
Any ideas welcolme

 

[kustomkarl]

You might want to become a "premium member" here to be able to download a manual for all the maintenance needed to do. That way you can read exactly what is needed and have if for future reference. You can either download and read it on line as a pdf, or print it off for you own personal and private use...cost like $10.95 usd for 30 days subscription. Click on the Manual section for details.

Karl

 

[ipswichsurfer]

Greasing splines in jet pump

OK, I've worked out how to change oil, oil filter and coolant on my 2004 RXP.
Next thing the manual says is to "grease splines in jet pump".
Any advice on this please !
Also Seadoo sold me synthetic oil which I thought was a big no no for superchargerd skis ?????
Also is there anything to grease on the PTO, which I don't know what or where this is located ?
I am making progress, just slowly.
Thanks

 

[aklim]

Also Seadoo sold me synthetic oil which I thought was a big no no for superchargerd skis ?

I think those are not fully synthetic.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Synthetics...?

Grease fitting....? On the back of the motor, you should see a shaft cover. On the 2 strokes, it's grey and held on by two plastic wing nuts. However your cover is on, remove it. The PTO is the hub which the splines of the drive shaft are coupled to the engine. There, you should see a grease fitting (Zirc). Give it a couple pumps of grease. Do not try to fill it to much or your blow the black rubber boot that is the seal.

You need to get a hydrometer and check your coolant. Over a period of time, the coolant will lose it's ability to protect from a freeze. A hydrometer will give you that info.

You said you have the oil covered, so no help needed there.

You'll need to spray the engine liberally with a WD-40 or some other moisture displacement product, like Cosmoline.

You mentioned your going to start it every two weeks. As long as you do this, you do not have to fog the engine. If you leave it sit longer than 3 or 4 weeks, "fog" it.

Depending on how cold it gets, below freezing for longer than 12 hours, you can use a small shop light with a 75 watt light bulb, hanging from the top, not touching anything. This will help keep the engine compartment warm. If you have fuel in your bilges, I suggest you do not use the light bulb.......

Prior to the replacment of the ceramic washers, using synthetic oil was a no-no. The reason? Synthetic oil does not burn and was to slippery for the clutch washers. Now, BRP has come out with a summer synthetic blend, used in all Seadoo 4-TEC engines.

Here's an exact quote from a seller of the new XPS oil blend from Parker Yamaha.

BRP 4 Stroke Synthetic Blend Oil Gallon can be used in all 4Tec series engines, including all SeaDoo 4 Stoke with or without Super Chargers, The XP-S 5w40 weight is a high performance 4 Stroke engine oil developed for riders that demand maximum engine performance and protections during all operating conditions.

If your unsure, below is a picture of what the bottle looks like. It comes by the gallon and ordered through Parker, it's $32 bucks.

 

[ipswichsurfer]

Thanks for that info, I'll look for the cover tonight.
Changed oil, filter and coolant yesterday. don't know why I haven't done it myself before, very simple.
Used the Seadoo Oil $ 77.00 !!!!! for the bottle.
I think I'll move to America.

 

[mudpie]

i never use a full syn oil in seadoo skis with a sc
i do think the stuff they sold you is a blend
you MUST drain you fuel tank if it is over a 1/4 full,if less fill to top with fresh
stale gas is bad, very bad!!!
as for the grease on the splines? not really needed unless you feel like pulling the pump and shaft out to do this !!!!
mud

 

[ski-d00]

the 4tecs don't have a pto cover and don't have a grease zerk either, the only place to put grease is in the pump bearings(special grease and not necessary unless you have a problem) and on the splined shaft where it goes into the impeller(not that important either).

make sure you don't use full synthetic oil, never use full synthetic with a supercharged 4tec!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

better off to stick with the standard oil IMO, the blends really haven't been proven yet and I'll let others do the proving before I use it.

if you start it every few weeks and it doesn't freeze there, all you need to do is change the oil once a year and keep fuel stabilizer in the tank in the summer(winter for us in the northern hemispere).

 

[seadoosnipe]

I stand corrected....

the 4tecs don't have a pto cover and don't have a grease zerk either, the only place to put grease is in the pump bearings(special grease and not necessary unless you have a problem) and on the splined shaft where it goes into the impeller(not that important either).

make sure you don't use full synthetic oil, never use full synthetic with a supercharged 4tec!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

better off to stick with the standard oil IMO, the blends really haven't been proven yet and I'll let others do the proving before I use it.

if you start it every few weeks and it doesn't freeze there, all you need to do is change the oil once a year and keep fuel stabilizer in the tank in the summer(winter for us in the northern hemispere).

Because it's a spined gear that mates itself to the crankshaft, I assumed it was lubricated as any other shaft. The universal joints on our cars are even lubricated in this manner. I'm curious now as to what keeps the shaft spines from seizing over time.

Here on Dog river, there are very few "river rats" who own the new 4-TEC engines, so needless to say, I've never got the chance to really get down and dirty on one.

I can appreciate very much that owners/mechanics of the 4-TEC models chimed in to help the member out. I love it when I can proove to eveyone else, I'm just as human as they are. I do make mistakes as well as the next guy...........:cheers:

 

[seadoosnipe]

Synthetic oils....

i never use a full syn oil in seadoo skis with a sc
i do think the stuff they sold you is a blend
you MUST drain you fuel tank if it is over a 1/4 full,if less fill to top with fresh
stale gas is bad, very bad!!!
as for the grease on the splines? not really needed unless you feel like pulling the pump and shaft out to do this !!!!
mud

I will totally have to disagree with the comment that you should never use synthetics in a supercharged or SCIC engine.

The molecular structure of synthetics surpass the lubricating and friction reducing heat by 10 fold.

When these motors first came out with the ceramic washers, it was recommended that all supercharged motors use mineral oil. Mineral oil gets hot and burns, synthetic oil does not burn. Or, if it does, it takes an aweful lot of heat before you get to the burning point.

I too was shocked when it was stated that you could now use synthetic. I denied that to the member but with an open mind, researched it. I found that, BRP does now recommend their summer grade XPS synthetic blend in all 4-TEC engines. If recommended by BRP, I think their research and development engineers have a higher degree of mechanicl apptitude than I do

I've done a lot of research on synthetics and decided to run everything I own with synthetics. Mineral oil does not cover 100% of the bearing surface, leaving area to exposed friction, building friction and heat. Synthetic oil covers 100% of the bearings surface and is designed to carry off heat brought on by friction.

I hope, rather than being closed on the subject, you do some research in the molecular structure on the benefits of synthetic oils.

If you think your skis (pre 2006) are still using the ceramic washers, then I'd recommend you not run synthetic blended oils........

 

[ski-d00]

I love synthetic oil and know all about, I just don't like to recommend something until it has been proven, which means about 2 years in my book.

Actually, when these motors came out, SD recommended full synthetic oil until they realized this made the sc problem worse, took them about 6 months to figure it out so I wouldn't consider the brp engineers to have all the answers. I don't think mud is closed on the subject nor am I, just get tired of fixing sc's that people use synthetic oil in, even non ceramic ones.

Anyway, he has an 04 RXP in Australia and I'll bet it still has ceramic washers in it. So, unless he knows for sure somebody replaced the washers, he better stick with regular oil and even then there's more risk. That's all I'm trying to say.

The driveshaft splines are lubricated by engine oil in the 4tecs, it's behind the seal.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Good deal....

I love synthetic oil and know all about, I just don't like to recommend something until it has been proven, which means about 2 years in my book.

Actually, when these motors came out, SD recommended full synthetic oil until they realized this made the sc problem worse, took them about 6 months to figure it out so I wouldn't consider the brp engineers to have all the answers. I don't think mud is closed on the subject nor am I, just get tired of fixing sc's that people use synthetic oil in, even non ceramic ones.

Anyway, he has an 04 RXP in Australia and I'll bet it still has ceramic washers in it. So, unless he knows for sure somebody replaced the washers, he better stick with regular oil and even then there's more risk. That's all I'm trying to say.

The driveshaft splines are lubricated by engine oil in the 4tecs, it's behind the seal.

Sounds logical. I think I'll have to agree with that one. Just like when windows came out with Vista, it took them a year before it would actucally do what they said it would.

After the kinks are worked out, it may be a good deal. If it's got base oils in it, then the supercharger shouldn't over slip. At 40,000 rpm, ,you don't need this system to screw up on you just because BRP says it's o.k......:cheers:

 

[ipswichsurfer]

Thanks guys, you've been very helpful.
However ski-D00 just because I'm Australian doesn't mean I haven't changed my washers from ceramic! We do have the internet down under...

 

[seadoosnipe]

Funny.....!

Thanks guys, you've been very helpful.
However ski-D00 just because I'm Australian doesn't mean I haven't changed my washers from ceramic! We do have the internet down under...[/QUOTE


That was funny. I could see if you lived on Mars or the Moon, you not being able to find parts. There are many members on line from around the world who purchase their parts from within the United States. The funny thing is, once you find a part, the charges you have to pay to get it into Australia is outrageous.

Our parts warehouse does international shipping but you have to call the international phone system to order from other countries.

Let me know if you need help. I was able to help a member in Switzerland get the running lights for his boat through the warehouse. So, parts are available.:cheers:

 

[mudpie]

the splines on the engine side of a 4-tec is bathed in engine oil
if you pull the shaft out of a 4-tec, woops there goes the oil !!!
as for the other end, nothing, thats why they want you to pull pump to apply some grease to the splines, this will ease removal of shaft down the road when needed. on the 2-strokes we had the pto fitting to grease, which kept that end lubed and still have to pull pump to grease impeller side
the grease is there for more than just removal purposes
the splines have a bit of a crown to them, this allows a little room for the shaft to walk / wobble under load, the grase keeps things smooth.
and for me? standard oil and change it on a regular basis.
have torn down too many 4-tecs to replace cranks, rods, rocker shafts, oil pump housings, both front and rear, due too stupid ceramic washers that fall apart and trash the oil pump !!!!
do you guys know, that now if you dont get your super charger rebuilt by a brp dealer at 100 hours on new crafts, it might void your warranty?
even with the new washers they are using, good stuff !!
mud