Detailed boat
I figured since my boat isnt a Seadoo and this is a Seadoo forum I'll keep this in the "Throw the Tomato" thread.
Spent the last week detailing the new Starcraft. Its wintertime in Florida and this is the best time to be in the garage. IN the summer it is so brutally hot you cant spend more than a hour out there before needing a break. No so this time of year. Perfect to spend hours with the high speed buffer in comfort.
The boat, while new, is a 2008 leftover and has been exposed to the elements near Atlanta. The snap in bow and cockpit covers were on most of the time because in the right lighting(fluorescent) you could see the cover line by the snaps by way of some oxidation.
I love finding the right things wrong with stuff. When buying homes I love fixer uppers so long as its all cosmetic. If the neighborhood is right, the plan is right and structural integrity is there I'll make offers knowing I'll need to replace appliances, carpet, drywall repair and paint etc.. I've made alot of money over the years this way.
I carry the same approach with the boats. This one, while not the flashy brand of say, Sea Ray, Crownline or Regal, it is a very old established boat builder known for solid crafts. While the color isn't my favorite it grows on you and it is actually an upgrade. If this was the entry level 3 liter 4 cylinder I wouldn't have given it the time of day no matter how good the deal was but it has the 4.3 Liter MPI 220hp package. Most boat builders charge between $5500 to $6300 to upgrade from the 3 liter to the 4.3 MPI. In an 18 foot boat the 4.3 MPI is a rocket. I'll never want for more power. New boat with the best power package(sterndrive) in an 18 foot bowrider for $16,000? SOLD!!
Back to the detailing. The "above the rub rail" hull surface needed some buffing and I spent most of my time there. My weapon of choice is a rotary polisher with wool pad. I've used this power tool on several boats before and I am comfortable using this on boats(never on a car though). The gel coat is so thick and hard on a boat that this is the only way to get that wet mirror look. I have a Porter cable DA polisher thats perfect for cars but on the boat its pissing in the wind no matter what product I apply so I stick with the rotary on the boat. I mask off the rub rail and any other obstacle like windshield, cleats, decals etc.. Use the blue painters tape for easy removal. I also removed the screw in cover snaps for an obstacle free job.
I've tried several marine compounds in the past but the best I've used by a large margin is the Shurhold "Buff Magic". This product coupled with the wool rotary pad is a spectacular combination. I actually went around the boat three times(again just the above the rub rail section). The below the rub rail hull was perfect and needed nothing more than an application of a cleaner/wax just to clean off some road grime and bugs.
The pictures simply do not illustrate the end result well enough but I am very happy with the results. I am confident the boat did not have this level of finish when it left Starcraft.
Finally, over the weekend my son and I replaced the garbage stereo(Seaworthy brand) and speakers(Seaworthy brand that were all cracked up near the magnet). We installed a high power Jensen and a pair of the awesome Polk Audio DB651s. The sound is freaking awesome for two speakers. We will be adding two more to the bow in a few weeks. I also will be adding a wired remote at the helm in the future too but with so many projects I am prioritizing. I have an hour meter to install, GPS/depth finder to install and a Bimini top to install...My checkbook will be scorched!
Craig
